UKBouldering.com

Avon Gorge guidebook - review (Read 4442 times)

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2952
  • Karma: +332/-2
Avon Gorge guidebook - review
February 07, 2017, 12:47:23 pm
First impressions are very good, the striking cover relocates Pink Wall Traverse to high on El Cap. An A5 format allows crag photos that are are by far the best I’ve seen at decoding the "lineless intricacies of Main Wall”. Cumbersome to haul along The Equator compared with previous editions but, on balance, the correct choice given most routes are single pitch, seconds from the road. It's clearly a Martin Crocker guide, with his inimitable enthusiastic beta-rich route descriptions. Crag approach maps are extremely clear. Grading is generous towards classical Avon routes - off-vertical, footwork intensive, lacking in positive holds, hard to read, harder to protect - wise given how alien this style is to most contemporary climbers. There are plenty of big ticks for the weak-but-bold ledge shuffler. Starring is not over-generous: Malbogies gets two stars, the magnificent Unknown Pleasures none! Overall, there is a far better chance you’ll find your route and have a good idea what you are letting yourself in for with this guide than any previous version.

Fixed piton are crucial to many routes here. The vexed question of their reliability is addressed by describing how to navigate, click by click, from the ClimbBristol website to the gear replacement database (or here). I'd be interested to know the thinking behind not dating the fixed gear in the guide. Is it expected the guide will outlive the pegs? Liability concerns?

The guide is fattened by a large number of action photos. Some of these are very good - Mike Hutton’s of Edgemaster, Giant’s Cave Buttress as Pembroke E4, the framing foliage of the Leigh Woods title page - but too many distinctly average, repetitive (two very similar of Edgemaster), or over-familiar (upper wall and portway, suspension bridge arete and looming suspension bridge). Avon is not photogenic - uninspiring rock architecture, un-gymnastic climbing, too many vegetated ledges, a main road beneath - and too many shots do not transcend these limitations. Applying a firmer editorial hand to the photography would have reducing the bulk and increasing overall quality.

The historical section and first ascent lists are separate here, both models of their kind.  Considered his dominant position in Bristol climbing for the last 35 years Martin underplays his own role. The pre-climbing history and archive pictures are fascinating: you don't get JMW Turner in Rockfax. Photos of local activists are well chosen, characters from my past leap out of the pages.

There is a certain irony in reviewing here a guide featuring possibly the worst bouldering of any major UK climbing area. What exists is now fully described and (V-)graded. That’s not what you come to Avon for though and I hope this guide reignites interest in this brilliant and unique set of crags, encouraging people to get on some of the great trad. routes and newer sport developments on both sides of the river.

Guidebooks should inform and inspire and, despite minor caveats, this emphatically does both. Ed Drummond's “Gorge, Sixty Eight” guidebook infamously sold it’s routes for 6d each. 49 years later, Martin and the CC charge 3p apiece for the 750 in here, a bargain! Buy it and climb them.

El Mocho

Online
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 629
  • Karma: +148/-1
#1 Re: Avon Gorge guidebook - review
February 07, 2017, 12:58:02 pm
...the magnificent Unknown Pleasures none!

This is obviously a typo in the guidebook, what I do in this situation (often find it happens in the peak district, especially on the grades) is get my red biro and correct the mistake myself. Go write in the 3 stars it deserves...

...was my first E6 onsight over 20 years ago now, def a classic.

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2952
  • Karma: +332/-2
#2 Re: Avon Gorge guidebook - review
February 09, 2017, 08:04:49 am
Go write in the 3 stars it deserves...

...was my first E6 onsight over 20 years ago now, def a classic.

Made my week!


17th September in your diaries: https://portwaysundaypark.co.uk/

DAVETHOMAS90

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Dave Thomas is an annual climber to 1.7m, with strongly fragrant flowers
  • Posts: 1726
  • Karma: +166/-6
  • Don't die with your music still inside you ;)
#3 Re: Avon Gorge guidebook - review
February 10, 2017, 12:34:38 am
..I hope this guide reignites interest in this brilliant and unique set of crags..

The great review might  :great:

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2952
  • Karma: +332/-2
#4 Re: Avon Gorge guidebook - review
September 11, 2017, 04:36:29 pm
A reminder that the Portway (A4) will be closed to motorised traffic this Sunday afternoon 17th September. A good opportunity to experience the Bristol crags in relative peace.

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8
#5 Re: Avon Gorge guidebook - review
September 11, 2017, 05:28:00 pm
A reminder that the Portway (A4) will be closed to motorised traffic this Sunday afternoon 17th September. A good opportunity to experience the Bristol crags in relative peace.

Had the pleasure of climbing during this event (sky ride?) a few years ago, so nice without cars. Are there any similar closures at Cheddar?

lukeyboy

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 521
  • Karma: +24/-0
#6 Re: Avon Gorge guidebook - review
September 12, 2017, 07:23:14 am
A reminder that the Portway (A4) will be closed to motorised traffic this Sunday afternoon 17th September. A good opportunity to experience the Bristol crags in relative peace.

Had the pleasure of climbing during this event (sky ride?) a few years ago, so nice without cars. Are there any similar closures at Cheddar?

It's for the Bristol half marathon so won't affect cheddar. I've made a bit of an error and will be running it, rather than enjoying a peaceful climb. Fool!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal