[nai]

Weighing up whether a return session tomorrow with Seb would be a waste of time

Keen to try this, give us a shout if you do.

[shark]

Weighing up whether a return session tomorrow with Seb would be a waste of time

Keen to try this, give us a shout if you do.

If you do the move I'll have no excuse

[petejh]

I'm 5.9 with no ape index.

Everyone has an ape index. Just that yours is zero. (climb grow faster..)

[petejh]

also, if you're not on any meds which interact, you might want to try some 5htp, or supplement with tryptophan or what not. Petejh said he slept better on cissus quadrasomething

I stopped taking that after a month experiment last year but yeah I think it did send me off.

I don't really struggle with sleep but still do some of the things in 39's list - f.lux, cover alarm clock so can't see the time, make room as dark as poss and cool, no phones/computers in bedroom, no caffeine after early afternoon. Booze defo distrubs my sleep, no question about it.

[anecdotal]I think zinc in the diet may help[/anecdotal]

I stopped using a piss bottle when I stopped living in a bush in the army.

[shark]

I'm 5.9 with no ape index.

Everyone has an ape index. Just that yours is zero

Your name Slackline?

[Duma]

39, Chris, ttt, et al - thanks for all the suggestions.

Given I don't have any trouble dropping off initially, just getting back to sleep when I wake in the night, I'm discounting some of these (ie f.lux, seems pointless if I avoid looking at phone overnight), is this wrong?

The booze one I may have to consider - had a couple sunday night and was awake a couple of hours overnight, nothing monday eve and slept great, couple last night and had another couple of hours awake.

Sorry for moaning, I'm aware that I'm not getting that little sleep, and lots of folk survive on much less.

(had marmite mon eve and not last night now I come to think of it...)

[Three Nine]

Booze is supposed to help you get to sleep but then fuck up your sleep architecture.

Just dont drink, its really easy.

[Duma]

S. Weather looked iffy. Headed out with Seb. Turned out to be a lovely day. Started at Moorside Rocks (not been before) and did the tricky 6b left arete. Also did Charlotte Dumpling to where it gets spicy and jumped off. Moved on to start of Gardoms (again that end new to me) and did G-Thang and teh sitter at 6C/+ which was great. Moved on to Suavito 7B which was amazing but frustrating. I couldnt quite reach the left hand sidehold. Seb got close with his hand on top. Then moved on to quest for Bin Ladens Cave 7A. Fortunately found it. Mossy and wet on top which made it intersting. We both got it about 3rd or 4th go. Another great problem. Good to get new crag ticks in and always entertaining to go out with Seb.  Overall a superb day out.
 

If you ho back to Suavito the beta for that move is to really squeeze the arete and kind of push off your right thumb muscle,  simultaneously with really driving through your left leg, consciously keeping a lot of body tension. Makes the left hand ctimp suddenly seem a lot closer.

How tall are you? You look quite tall in your videos. I'm 5.9 with no ape index. It felt hard to generate any momentum or drive as I'm so stretched out. Weighing up whether a return session tomorrow with Seb would be a waste of time

Shark, I'm just under 5'9", I do this move with a really high LF (where his LF is here), almost rocking up onto it. needs a bit of contact strength to catch though, and I have pretty good hip flexibility.

[Duma]

Booze is supposed to help you get to sleep but then fuck up your sleep architecture.

Just dont drink, its really easy.

 

[petejh]

I'm 5.9 with no ape index.

Everyone has an ape index. Just that yours is zero

Your name Slackline?

Slackers is offline for upgrading. P.Bot's a temporary solution.

[Nibile]

I'm 5.9 with no ape index.

Vitruvian Man Shark.

[shark]

I'm 5.9 with no ape index.

Vitruvian Man Shark.

If only I had four arms too

[shark]

Shark, I'm just under 5'9", I do this move with a really high LF (where his LF is here), almost rocking up onto it. needs a bit of contact strength to catch though, and I have pretty good hip flexibility.

Ta

[the_dom]

Monday: Can't remember. Obviously nothing too exciting. Maybe a hike of some kind.

Tuesday: Deadlifts at lunchtime and bouldering in the PM. Pretty good session.

Wednesday: Again, nothing memorable, but probably a hike of some kind or a short hangboard session.

Thursday: Deadlifts at lunchtime (up to 160kgs YYFY!) and bouldering in the PM. Tired session, not feeling brilliant.

Friday: 40 min hike

Saturday: Hungover bouldering, followed by weights (cleans, bench-presses) and hangboarding (mainly dicking about on the BM slopers).

Sunday: Rest day. Feeling worked.

Not the greatest week. Felt pretty tired through it - possibly the volume of training and poor sleep has been catching up with me. Sunday felt like a relatively necessary day off.

[nai]

Shark, I'm just under 5'9", I do this move with a really high LF (where his LF is here), almost rocking up onto it. needs a bit of contact strength to catch though, and I have pretty good hip flexibility.

Ta

Demonstrated beautifully by Mina at 44 minutes in Life On Hold.

[SA Chris]

5) bad at this too - though it's very rare I have problems dropping off in the evening, so as with 2) I'm not so worried about it

FWIW I had a great night last night, 8.5 hrs in bed, 8 hrs asleep, woke once I was aware of in the night and only very briefly. Hoping the fresh air at lunch has helped.
[/quote]

Still, apparently it can alter your brainwaves / stimulation and even if you fall asleep OK it can affect your sleep patterns.

And 8.5 hours - I can but dream (actually not much time for that). 6.5 is good for me.

[webbo]

Mon. Bike 71.06 miles 4 hrs 25 mins.
Tue. 30 warm up problems then repeaters 5 secs on 5 off x 5 5 sets with 36.5 lbs added.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board did a couple of new things before taking an absolute pisser in to garage wall. Might need to start wearing a helmet. Did a project I had spent a couple of sessions on.
Turbo 1 hour.
Fri. Bike 71.82 miles 4 hrs 14 mins.
Sat. Nothing.
Sun. Board. Did a couple of new things including one I couldn't do Thursday but failed to repeat one of thursdays problems. Repeaters 5 secs on 5 off x 5 3 sets with 39.25 added.

[shark]

Had another session on Suavito yesterday. Got my left foot high on the right side of the large sloping foothold but was too bunched up to rock out left to the sidehold. Tried other footholds below it but they are too rubbish to use.

Tried again with low left foot and managed to generate enough momentum to get the distance to reach for the sidehold but my left foot comes off as Im within grabbing distance (see below) and my contact speed/strength is too poor to compensate

suavito by TheUKBShark, on Flickr

[SA Chris]

Another speed issue.

[tomtom]

Unfortunately iirc it's harder higher up...

[Duma]

no it's not

[tomtom]

I didn't have a problem with that move (height I suspect) but dropped going for the top and getting set for going for the top... but that's me not Shark..

[Sidehaas]

I'm with Tomtom here...

[Duma]

How tall are you? Can see that the move to the sidepull must be easier if you can do it off the low foot. Still surprised you find it harder than the top, which felt fine if you commit to it.

[Sidehaas]

How tall are you? Can see that the move to the sidepull must be easier if you can do it off the low foot. Still surprised you find it harder than the top, which felt fine if you commit to it.

I'm 5ft11 with short arms. I linked all the moves but the top in a session, but then the top move took me 4 sessions more (and one injured heel), even from pulling on half way up. Most people I've seen on it during it in those sessions find the top move to be easily the hardest, but perhaps not as extremely as me. Admittedly though I've seen one strong short guy struggle on the move out left and then flash the top - so I know it's not universal! (Maybe that was you.)

To be fair, I think it's just because they are a very different style of move. I found it desperate to keep my heel on the arete, I could hit the top easily but then always swung off. Simon might be better at that body movement.