[psborland]

M. hard limit boulder. Weighted pull ups 8 @ 20Kg; 5@30Kg; 4@32.5Kg; 4@32.5kg (failed last rep).

T. nothing

W. BBC orange Circuit(V4-5) aiming to limit rest time between for some power endurance training.

Th. nothing

F. Low intensity high volume route climbing @ Creation.

Sat. stretching

Sun. Harder indoor routes at Redpoint 3 hours. Board/barrel for 40 mins.

Not a very structured week but enjoying the route sessions !

[Sasquatch]

M - Rest/ Shoulder Rehab
T - Long Day - AM - Moonboard OS and Flash work, then FB MAW +70lbs,  PM-Slab/Techy Boulders, DL 3x5x325#, Routes-8x 7a-7b
W - Rest
T - AM FB, PM Backcountry snowboard run w Wife
F - AM- Snowboard Backcountry-5 hrs, PM Skate Ski 45min
S - AM Skate Ski 1hr, PM FB-Felt very heavy and tired, but performed OK, MAW +75lbs
S - Boulder - Volume up to 7A/B, then Lever work

Good week overall, not much training progress, but loads of fun.  Cleaned off a couple of projects while out backcountry, so If the weather holds, I may get outside tomorrow.   

Saturday's FB Session matched my 3rd best ever for total hanging weight, so If I can drop weight I'll be firing and ready...  Just ave to drop 15lbs..... Fuck I'm fat right now...

[shark]

11.4-6

Easy week

M. Yoga

T.

W.

T. Back to Sheffield for Lattice test with Paul. Started off ok. Including weight gain about 2 kg stronger on hang test (one arm/5 secs/+10kg Right and +11kg Left) Matched my max score on lattice test. Paul was timing the intervals but they seemed too long. My doubts that hed fucked up where confirmed after I did 28 moves and Paul calculated I had 3 mins rest and was still arguing that he was doing it right!  . And no, even I'm not that slow ie 6 secs per move.

F.

S. Weather looked iffy. Headed out with Seb. Turned out to be a lovely day. Started at Moorside Rocks (not been before) and did the tricky 6b left arete. Also did Charlotte Dumpling to where it gets spicy and jumped off. Moved on to start of Gardoms (again that end new to me) and did G-Thang and teh sitter at 6C/+ which was great. Moved on to Suavito 7B which was amazing but frustrating. I couldnt quite reach the left hand sidehold. Seb got close with his hand on top. Then moved on to quest for Bin Ladens Cave 7A. Fortunately found it. Mossy and wet on top which made it intersting. We both got it about 3rd or 4th go. Another great problem. Good to get new crag ticks in and always entertaining to go out with Seb.  Overall a superb day out.

S. PM Lengthy max hangs session. Possibly scored a bit better than previous Sunday

Working at BMC has been pretty full on. Need to get my shit together as Mina rightly told me if Im going to get the Oak done    Getting stronger but have to knock off the drinking and tighten the diet as Im not losing anything at the minute. Going to be up in Malham this weekend on business so a visit to the Catwalk should remind me why Im doing it all. More of the same sort of training for the next 3 weeks ie Fingerboard (max hangs now) AeroCap, AnCap and bouldering. Phase in AeroPower in March



 

[tomtom]

Isn't Bin Ladens 6C?

[shark]

Isn't Bin Ladens 6C?

Where do you get that from?

[tomtom]

M:

Tu: Rockpity, Hull. Decent ish session - but lost a load of skin on my knuckles in the razer sharp walled boiler-room. Good to catch up with a couple of folk I'd not seen in ages.

We:

Th:

<EPIPHANY ALERT>
I went to the Manchester Depot - warmed up and spent 90 min on the 30 degree board.

I've never really spent any time working a board before. I wanted to try something different with going to the wall - having suffered sore back after most previous visits I wanted to try basic hard training. So lets give this 30 a whirl eh...

Worked a couple of ways up the Crusher holds on the right - elimintated an odd hold or two
Did the same on the left - then eliminated the odd hold until I was crimping hard, having to try really hard and throwing and just catching holds. Probably did 3 or 4 problems up to 6Cish grade -but it felt gooooood...

Why have I never done this before????
</EPIPHANY ALERT>

Fri: I ached. Quite alot

Sa: Less aching - stuff with MrsTT and TT Jnr in the AM - quick 90 min at Brownstones trying Colt (again). Had to dry (repeatedly) one of the holds which made it interesting... got my hands in the slot twice but couldnt hold.. felt stronger on it though..

Su: Drive to Southwold for funeral the next day...

[tomtom]

Isn't Bin Ladens 6C?

Where do you get that from?

Thats what Dolly said when we were on it...

[shark]

Isn't Bin Ladens 6C?

Where do you get that from?

Thats what Dolly said when we were on it...

Hero

[webbo]

Isn't Bin Ladens 6C?

Where do you get that from?

Thats what Dolly said when we were on it...

They were on it but couldn't do it at 6c

[Dolly]

Its 7a (cough) still cant fucking do it.


Anyway...
M A few easy routes at the gym -  just because smallest daughter was swimming as I was battered from Beastmaker the day before
T Core class at the gym. Hard. Followed by kettlebells and throwing a heavy ball onto the floor a lot
W Shed. Just power/fun
T Beastmaker again. Its knackering when you really try. For some reason decided it would be good to top off at the gym with a few easy routes, but I was battered. I just wanted an excuse to go in the sauna really.
F Easy walk in Eccy Woods with the boss. Went to Wigan to watch another less than inspiring performance by Wednesday but it was good fun. As it horizontal snow on the Snake summit at 11:30 I thought there would be no chance of climbing
S Should have gone out with Shark and Seb but I thought it would be wet. Went to Burbage North which was dry. Opened my account on Zaff S - fuck that feels hard. Had a quick play on Cofe's new problem Pincer until I had to let go with my right hand. Then went on Blind Fig where I actually concentrated rather than just throwing on. Made progress and I feel like I coudl actually get somewhere,  but it needs to be cold for me to get somewhere and I felt like I needed a spot.
S Gym core and medicine ball slam burpees -yep really.


Funny week as the weather was shite apart from Saturday and it co-incided with the end of dry January (TBH that had happened the week before when the mother in law arrived and I self medicated with beer, wine and gin)

[a13c]

Planned light week for me last week. Felt pretty weak on Thursday's session for some reason, 3 rest days felt like too much... Felt strong on yesterday's night session, back to the higer volume of training this week.

M: Rest

T: Rest

W: Lunch - 50 Crunches (+5kg)
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises to bar
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises to bar
50 Crunches (+5kg)

T: Plas Power - 2 x 8 min on 2min off LI-AeroCap
Max Hangs
Open crimp - 20mm edge - 3 x 10s (3min rest)
Half crimp - 25mm edge - 3 x 10s (3min rest)

Board - Figured out a good last couple of moves for project, had 2 goes from the start and fell off on move 6 twice. Problem is 8 moves in total.

AnCap - 7 x 12moves (2mins rest between reps)
Powered out on rep 7.
Didn't realise the time so couldn't complete 8th rep.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Minera Bouldering night session - Esoteric local limestone boulder, never been before and really impressed. Flashed "Warhammer" (6B) and did Danny Cattell's "Siani Blewog" (6C+) in a few goes, great moves. Had a bunch of goes on "Ned's Arete" (6C+), did all the moves but the slopey pinches were in bad condition, moisture in the air and everything was slowly freezing over.

Keen to go back to try the 7A+ and DC's 7B/+.

Hi Luke, where is the 7B/+ problem you mentioned please?
Alec

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

[Luke Owens]

Hi Luke, where is the 7B/+ problem you mentioned please?
Alec

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

Hey Alec, I've sent you a PM.

[shark]

Its 7a (cough) still cant fucking do it.

Zero

[SA Chris]

Sleep: ok, been taking the melatolin this week, and lots of time in bed, but started waking in the night again though which is shit.

I found melatonin helped for a while, but it's effectiveness wore off over time (maybe your body produces less if supplement it, like eye drops).

I am usually falling asleep in a book by about 11 and either wake at about 3 or so, then toss and turn for a couple of hours before getting to sleep or wake at about 5 am for the day.

Things I find help;

1) Exercise during the day, even if a lunchtime walk. Some sunshine seems to help (if there is any).
2) No exercise at all for the hour before bed. Some people recommend 2, but very hard to achieve. Exception is a hard wall session, which I usually finish by 10, always affects my sleep.
3) No coffee after midday, no tea after 4, no drinks after tea. Otherwise I need to get up for a piss and then I'm screwed.
4) Don't get in the habit of switching on phone or iPad when you wake up, I think your brain expects the stimulation at that time  so you will get woken up by it.
5) No screentime before bed, not even a Kindle. Read a novel preferably.

Good luck, hope you get over it.

[Sidehaas]

S. Weather looked iffy. Headed out with Seb. Turned out to be a lovely day. Started at Moorside Rocks (not been before) and did the tricky 6b left arete. Also did Charlotte Dumpling to where it gets spicy and jumped off. Moved on to start of Gardoms (again that end new to me) and did G-Thang and teh sitter at 6C/+ which was great. Moved on to Suavito 7B which was amazing but frustrating. I couldnt quite reach the left hand sidehold. Seb got close with his hand on top. Then moved on to quest for Bin Ladens Cave 7A. Fortunately found it. Mossy and wet on top which made it intersting. We both got it about 3rd or 4th go. Another great problem. Good to get new crag ticks in and always entertaining to go out with Seb.  Overall a superb day out.
 

If you ho back to Suavito the beta for that move is to really squeeze the arete and kind of push off your right thumb muscle,  simultaneously with really driving through your left leg, consciously keeping a lot of body tension. Makes the left hand ctimp suddenly seem a lot closer.

[Duma]

Sleep: ok, been taking the melatolin this week, and lots of time in bed, but started waking in the night again though which is shit.

I found melatonin helped for a while, but it's effectiveness wore off over time (maybe your body produces less if supplement it, like eye drops).

I am usually falling asleep in a book by about 11 and either wake at about 3 or so, then toss and turn for a couple of hours before getting to sleep or wake at about 5 am for the day.

Things I find help;

1) Exercise during the day, even if a lunchtime walk. Some sunshine seems to help (if there is any).
2) No exercise at all for the hour before bed. Some people recommend 2, but very hard to achieve. Exception is a hard wall session, which I usually finish by 10, always affects my sleep.
3) No coffee after midday, no tea after 4, no drinks after tea. Otherwise I need to get up for a piss and then I'm screwed.
4) Don't get in the habit of switching on phone or iPad when you wake up, I think your brain expects the stimulation at that time  so you will get woken up by it.
5) No screentime before bed, not even a Kindle. Read a novel preferably.

Good luck, hope you get over it.

Cheers Chris, I've not actually taken the Melatolin much - sleep improved almost immediately after I bought it back in the Autumn without me even taking any! The last week and a half is the only time I've consistently had it.
I get up at 630 for work, so if I lose a couple of hours in the middle of the night I'd need to be in bed before 9 every day to get what I'm "supposed to", and I'm not willing to give up that much of my life!

Re your list -
1) I had got into a habit of dozing in the car at lunchtime, but decided after a bit of reading this week that this was probably making things worse overnight so been for a bit of a walk the last couple of days - not much execise but gets some fresh air/sunlight and rests the eyes from screens all day.
2) Pretty good at this - I'm at the wall a lot of evenings, but reckon it's at least 90min mostly between that and bed, I try to finish before 9.
3) Follow pretty similar rule - no caffeine after midday (bar the other week!), though happy to drink after dinner.
4) I'm very bad at this - need to improve discipline
5) bad at this too - though it's very rare I have problems dropping off in the evening, so as with 2) I'm not so worried about it

FWIW I had a great night last night, 8.5 hrs in bed, 8 hrs asleep, woke once I was aware of in the night and only very briefly. Hoping the fresh air at lunch has helped.

[Three Nine]

My threepence is (in no particular order):

a) install flux on all your puters/phones
b) no training/thinking about climbing in the few hours before bd
c) no bullshit lying in/snooze buttons - when you're up you're up
d) get a piss bottle (5L so its got a wide enough neck). People may laugh or think its gross, but it means you can take a piss without really waking up properly/turning any lights on. I fall back to sleep so much better with this.
e) teaspoon or two of glycine before bed, nice stodgy complex carbs before bed
f) make sure your room is dark and COVER YOUR CLOCK so you cant see it when you wake up in the night. No checking of the time etc.
g) dont stress about not sleeping - you can only do so much
h) sedating antihistamines at bedtime (chlorphenamine, promethazine, or better doxylamine if you can get it)
i) if all else fails drop the Holy Trinity

also, if you're not on any meds which interact, you might want to try some 5htp, or supplement with tryptophan or what not. Petejh said he slept better on cissus quadrasomething

I don't like to be helpful if I can help it, but I sympathize as not sleeping is totally balls.

[tomtom]

I find thinking about climbing helps me get to sleep. I go on an almscliff circuit in my head and normally drop off before I leave the warm ups

[nai]

If I'm unable to sleep I take my pulse - lie and get comfy then start counting while watching the clock (having an old-skool radio-alarm with bright red LED display likely helps with this). Do 3-5 minutes restarting the count every minute then settle down again.  Seems counterintuitive prepping for sleep having your eyes open but it works really well for me.

[tommytwotone]

Nothing to report on the training front but on the sleep thing...besides the facetious answer of (if you don't already have any of course) "have kids", as a reformed terrible sleeper I found a few of these helped.

Obvious stuff:

No booze at all - just had a month off the beer and have slept brilliantly pretty much every night
No caffeine after a certain time (I'm fine if I stop at around mid-afternoon)
Get a proper, paper book and read it before bed, ideally (for me) for about 30 mins to an hour before sleep time and ideally (for me) with some restful music / white noise (see below) on headphones

Other stuff that may work:

I heard bananas and Marmite (presumably not consumed in the same dish) contain some chemical with is good for inducing sleep
Count backwards from 100 to 0 in your head, ideally in the most boring voice you can imagine...I've heard this is a tip from a Paul McKenna book, but this genuinely works for me. If I ever get to zero I start over, and skip 3 each time (so 100, 97, 94 etc). I read somewhere you need something that is enough cognitive effort to distract from the insomnia, but not so much it keeps you awake achieving the task
White noise - tons of apps out there but I use Calm, or before that I used to just run a plain old desk fan at the wall by the bed
Set your alarm (especially if you do it on a phone) well before bed - that "god I've only got x hours until I have to get up again" feeling is a guaranteed trigger for me

If all else fails, the only thing that never failed for me was Diazepam for the short while I was on it. Pretty moreish though.
 

[shark]

S. Weather looked iffy. Headed out with Seb. Turned out to be a lovely day. Started at Moorside Rocks (not been before) and did the tricky 6b left arete. Also did Charlotte Dumpling to where it gets spicy and jumped off. Moved on to start of Gardoms (again that end new to me) and did G-Thang and teh sitter at 6C/+ which was great. Moved on to Suavito 7B which was amazing but frustrating. I couldnt quite reach the left hand sidehold. Seb got close with his hand on top. Then moved on to quest for Bin Ladens Cave 7A. Fortunately found it. Mossy and wet on top which made it intersting. We both got it about 3rd or 4th go. Another great problem. Good to get new crag ticks in and always entertaining to go out with Seb.  Overall a superb day out.
 

If you ho back to Suavito the beta for that move is to really squeeze the arete and kind of push off your right thumb muscle,  simultaneously with really driving through your left leg, consciously keeping a lot of body tension. Makes the left hand ctimp suddenly seem a lot closer.

How tall are you? You look quite tall in your videos. I'm 5.9 with no ape index. It felt hard to generate any momentum or drive as I'm so stretched out. Weighing up whether a return session tomorrow with Seb would be a waste of time

[andy_e]

I go on an almscliff circuit in my head and normally drop off before I leave the warm ups

Just like in real life then, can't even manage the warm-ups!

[cheque]

I heard bananas and Marmite (presumably not consumed in the same dish)

That's my girlfriend's favourite sandwich filling  Ironically she used to be a terrible sleeper. Her problem was fixed by changing jobs.

[Duma]

If all else fails, the only thing that never failed for me was Diazepam for the short while I was on it. Pretty moreish though.

Therein lies the rub, waaaay too nice.

[Nibile]

Maybe it could be useful for non sleepers to split this thread?