[fried]

STG - keep up the bm session now work's picking up. Get out on rock.

M- Indoors session , shoulder ok, but didn't push it too much.
T/W rest
Th - Same as above but a bit lacklustre
F/Sa - rest
Su - BM session 5x5 (2sets) slopers, reduced crimps, no break between.

[Muenchener]

STG - Get out on rock.

STG: Left leg pistol squat; also see above.
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Evening mini snowboard tour to a hilltop pub for a mate's birthday. Big thaw has started to kick in so conditions were crap, nevertheless my first time snowboarding in the dark turned out to be quite fun.
T:  Max hangs, shoulders, pistol squat progressions, mobility.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes.
T: Shoulders, mobility, pistol squat progressions
F: Bike to work.
   Evening max hangs whilst watching US national boulder qualis & being suitably inspired by new generation super crushers Ashima & Brooke Raboutou.
S: Shoulders, mobility, pistol squat progressions.
   Went shopping in town and scored a half price jumar in the sales. YYFY. But what I was actually looking for was a grill pan, and I suspect while I could probably figure out a way to ascend a rope using a cast iron pan if had to, attempting to grill a steak using a jumar would probably melt it.
S: Boulderwelt with M jnr. Another shit session with nothing achieved nnfn. Made initial progress on a couple of good projects yyfy, one of which is strikingly similar to the crux of my 7a+ project in the Frankenjura that is south facing & should be in condition real soon now.

[Duma]

Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June
In shape for SA in summer.

Body Audit: Shoulder ok. Middle finger LH collateral seems sorted, both middle fingers feeling bit tweaky on board stuff though. Taping and being careful.
Sleep: ok, been taking the melatolin this week, and lots of time in bed, but started waking in the night again though which is shit.
68kg.

M: TCA, Moonboard. Mostly 7B stuff, found it harder than last week, though did do easiest "7C" ever. Could def feel fingers after, so iced. (7.5~hrs)
T: TCA, new hard circuit part set (Reds) so did bunch of those, ~10 problems 6C to 7B ish. (~7hrs)
W: nowt. (~6hrs)
T: Bloc, woody. Not much time or psyche, managed a couple of things, one of which I'd failed on last week though. Jack arrived as was about to leave, so did bit of campusing while chatting, managed 147 leading left on mediums again, tagged 7 leading right a couple of times too, but RH middle finger started to complain so called it.(~7.5hrs)
F: nothing, got daughter. (~7.5hrs)
S: see above. (~7hrs)
S: took her to tca, managed a couple more Reds, but not much really. (~? hrs not had them yet but will be another early night)

[nai]

2017 goals - 8a/+ redpoints, 7c onsight, E5 OS, E6 HP, 7C.

Mon -
AM - Yoga class
Noon - Massage, quite deep, quite sore.

Tue LI AeroCap, probably shouldn't have, still quite sore.

Wed 1 hour Yin yoga for back knots

Thu Bouldery AeroPow on Wave, better then last week but still struggling with the L2s. This is a particularly hard set though apparently.
1 hr yoga PM

Fri - Foundry
Plan was to spend an hour warming up and refining a few L2s then hit the autobelays for AeroPow.
But the L2s weren't going well and having managed to connect to the moonboard for the first time I got sucked into to trying problems on that. Thought it would suit me being covered in relatively large positive holds but was issued a grade A spanking, only managed a few things up to 6C.  Just about to give up when Tommy came to try it out so carried on and was inspired to try a bit harder but without much more success. Ended up on it for almost 2 hours.  When I finally did finish I then went and did 2 of the L2s I'd been struggling with first try - go figure 

Odd, it's the same angle as my board but climbs so differently, my problems are much more static, short snatches between poorer holds.  It does have lots of mostly rubbish footholds unlike the MB, I did find it a ballache doing hands follows feet on yardy problems and found a lot of problems really morpho with a huge move to start then I'd be too stretched out to move. There seem to be lot of these.  Anyway, enough rambling, it's fun and looks like it's exposed a weakness.  Plan to get on it more.

onto Autobelay for 10 x 1min HI AeroCap

S rest

Sun - very quick boulder on home board to get recruited then a series of disjointed max hangs benchmarking vs past performances on beastmaker then setting levels for future comparison on new rungs setup.  Seems I'm generally stronger 1/2 crimped and weaker open than previous.  Going to run a little test and use boards twice a week for a month instead of fingerboarding.  Hope to improve at bigger moves, see gains grade-wise on the moonboard and see whether finger strength also improves.

managed 1/2 a weights workout but was short of time.

[Duma]

Goals:
S: took her to tca, managed a couple more Reds, but not much really. (~? hrs not had them yet but will be another early night)

~4hrs. Fucks sake.

[Three Nine]

Goals:
S: took her to tca, managed a couple more Reds, but not much really. (~? hrs not had them yet but will be another early night)

~4hrs. Fucks sake.

I have had good success with 40mg of doxylamine, a sedating antihistamine. For some reason they dont do it over the counter in the UK, but I can let you have some to try to see if you want to order if you like?

[T_B]

M - Felt ill again
T - Ill
W - Taking it easy
T - Foundry P.M. Max Hangs (5 x 27Kg, half crimp, 5 x 12Kg middle two). Bit of wave bouldering. Ran home.
F - Ran to work
S -
S - A.M. Kinder bog trotting. P.M. Homeboard. Good 1.5hr sess with Mrs T_B

Light week due to having the weird virus thing everyone seems to have had. Upped the Kg on the max hangs to offset weight loss.

Plan to do a bit more this wk.

[duncan]

STG: Rehab. shoulder, elbow
MTG: tbc
LTG: 7b+. E5. Tempi Moderni August 2017 + one other long, hard and free

M - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.
T - Fingerboard lifting: half crimp and drags (30kg), left hand only. Tested right hand with a couple of 15kg lifts, sore after this. Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.
W - 11km walk. Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.
T - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises. 10km walk.
F - Fingerboard lifting: half crimp and drags (30kg), left hand only. Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.
S - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Reading new Avon guidebook, mostly extremely good, review may follow.
S - 30 mins. step-ups. 10km walk. Teaching offspring to swim.

Sharkathon tick. Shoulder and elbow slightly better but still some way off climbing. Terradets in 2 and a bit weeks...
Weight still far too high and stuck. Proof, if any were needed, that you can’t outwalk a fork. Going for regular strolls does help sleep and keeps my hip from seizing up completely. Plan: start monitoring food more closely and set some targets.

[James Malloch]

STG: Keep up with finger physio and keep to training plan.
MTG: Lots of 7a/b ticks on Yorkshire Limestone. Quick tick of Tremolo, 7c, at Malham.
LTG (4 years): The Groove at Malham.

M - Depot. Did comp circuit, got to around #20 okay and then failed on a few of the harder problems. Ticked lots of other reds in between attempts. Weighted hangs (+20kg) - 10x10s hangs with 1 minute rest between each.

T - Run & knee physio

W -

T - Banff Film Festival

F - Banff Film Festival

S - Run & Bought new car - YYFY

S - Depot. Warmed up and found a 14 move problem on the 30 degree wall for An Cap. Approx 40s of climbing. Did this 10 times with 2 minutes rest inbetween. Mix of push-ups, core and stretching between attempts. Never failed but felt v. powered out at the end of attempts towards the last few reps. This is what you aim for, right?

Did finger exercises each day. It's feeling okay but definitely a bit sore still. Back to the physio on Friday so I'll see what she says.

[Luke Owens]

Planned light week for me last week. Felt pretty weak on Thursday's session for some reason, 3 rest days felt like too much... Felt strong on yesterday's night session, back to the higer volume of training this week.

M: Rest

T: Rest

W: Lunch - 50 Crunches (+5kg)
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises to bar
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises to bar
50 Crunches (+5kg)

T: Plas Power - 2 x 8 min on 2min off LI-AeroCap
Max Hangs
Open crimp - 20mm edge - 3 x 10s (3min rest)
Half crimp - 25mm edge - 3 x 10s (3min rest)

Board - Figured out a good last couple of moves for project, had 2 goes from the start and fell off on move 6 twice. Problem is 8 moves in total.

AnCap - 7 x 12moves (2mins rest between reps)
Powered out on rep 7.
Didn't realise the time so couldn't complete 8th rep.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Minera Bouldering night session - Esoteric local limestone boulder, never been before and really impressed. Flashed "Warhammer" (6B) and did Danny Cattell's "Siani Blewog" (6C+) in a few goes, great moves. Had a bunch of goes on "Ned's Arete" (6C+), did all the moves but the slopey pinches were in bad condition, moisture in the air and everything was slowly freezing over.

Keen to go back to try the 7A+ and DC's 7B/+.

[Luke Owens]

S - Depot. Warmed up and found a 14 move problem on the 30 degree wall for An Cap. Approx 40s of climbing. Did this 10 times with 2 minutes rest inbetween. Mix of push-ups, core and stretching between attempts. Never failed but felt v. powered out at the end of attempts towards the last few reps. This is what you aim for, right?

Aim to power out on 25% of reps. Sounds like it was too easy. I certainly feel like I can't do anything strenuous in the rest periods when doing AnCap especially in the later reps.

[petejh]

STG: Send other M10 DT route route Manod. Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), G.Orme and Gideon.
MTG: first 8b+ (Mecca), spring. Develop/send routes at Mega Crag X (spring-summer). Explore more of Ireland. Send 2 projs on L.Orme (late summer)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018


M. Bolting at 'mega crag x'. Sketchy rope access saw us getting a horizontal handrail into place under a huge roof, and fixed ropes to the ground to allow us to return and easily equip 3 routes on the wall; and the first bolt in a great groove line to the left. Mega psyched for mega crag! Overnight ferry back in the evening, almost missed it.
T.
W. Fingerboard sesh. 5 x 10secs with 18Kg on AAA battery-reduced BM2k large slots to make them a 20mm edge.
T. Boardroom. Tried an aerocap sesh on the latticeboard. 30 x 20 secs on/10 secs off, climbing around my own sequence (not the lattice test sequence). Did first set, managed 15 on the second set. Unsurprisingly quite poor aerocap but I usually respond quite quickly once I start working it.
F. Moonboard. Tired sesh third day on. Totally powered down and failed to even do any 6Cs, let alone 7Bs.
S. Equipping day at Manod DT crag. Put perma draws in Flying Colours, the new M10 extension.
S. Equipping at Manod. Put perma-draws in Stress Test, new extension to 8-Iron, and 8-Iron. 28 stainless maillons, rope and biners placed @ £3.50 per maillon.. Any walls who are getting rid of their steel 'biners I'd love to chat..


Start of 10 weeks lead-in to Mecca starting today.

[Duma]

Goals:
S: took her to tca, managed a couple more Reds, but not much really. (~? hrs not had them yet but will be another early night)

~4hrs. Fucks sake.

I have had good success with 40mg of doxylamine, a sedating antihistamine. For some reason they dont do it over the counter in the UK, but I can let you have some to try to see if you want to order if you like?

Cheers for the offer, going to see how it goes this week before any other drugs though. Do you have trouble dropping off initially? I go down fine, just often wake after a few hours and struggle to get back to sleep. Maybe need to spend a few nights under the stars like they said on the news the other day... Just getting fucked off giving up so much of my evening just to give myself 9+ hrs in bed for 6-7hrs sleep.

[36chambers]

STG: Winter projects
MTG: Climb well in Font
LTG: 8B

M: Lunch yoga.
T: 50 board. good session. Mainly trying hard 2-5 moves.
W:
T: Lunch yoga. 50 board. Strongest I've ever felt on it. Easily lapping moves that shut my down previously. Close to climbing my first hard problem. 
F:
S: Yorkshire esoteric. Glorious day out with a big team.
S: Brimham. Recompiled my tick list and there's suddenly so much to do there.

Feeling quite strong at the moment. Keen to get back on the winter projects.

[andy_e]

Do the Fonz.

[36chambers]

Do the Fonz.

It's at the top of my list. Was supposed to try it yesterday but got sidetracked looking at other things. It's amazing how quickly a day goes when you go wandering around Brimham. 

[Three Nine]

Goals:
S: took her to tca, managed a couple more Reds, but not much really. (~? hrs not had them yet but will be another early night)

~4hrs. Fucks sake.

I have had good success with 40mg of doxylamine, a sedating antihistamine. For some reason they dont do it over the counter in the UK, but I can let you have some to try to see if you want to order if you like?

Cheers for the offer, going to see how it goes this week before any other drugs though. Do you have trouble dropping off initially? I go down fine, just often wake after a few hours and struggle to get back to sleep. Maybe need to spend a few nights under the stars like they said on the news the other day... Just getting fucked off giving up so much of my evening just to give myself 9+ hrs in bed for 6-7hrs sleep.

No its going to sleep in the first place which is the hard bit for me.

[Three Nine]

Goals:
S: took her to tca, managed a couple more Reds, but not much really. (~? hrs not had them yet but will be another early night)

~4hrs. Fucks sake.

I have had good success with 40mg of doxylamine, a sedating antihistamine. For some reason they dont do it over the counter in the UK, but I can let you have some to try to see if you want to order if you like?

Cheers for the offer, going to see how it goes this week before any other drugs though. Do you have trouble dropping off initially? I go down fine, just often wake after a few hours and struggle to get back to sleep. Maybe need to spend a few nights under the stars like they said on the news the other day... Just getting fucked off giving up so much of my evening just to give myself 9+ hrs in bed for 6-7hrs sleep.

No its going to sleep in the first place which is the hard bit for me.

I was introduced recently to the 'Holy Trinity' sleep stack - right before bed smash 40mg doxy, 10mg diazepam, 3.5mg zopiclone. Sleep like such a hero.

[Duma]

No its going to sleep in the first place which is the hard bit for me.

I was introduced recently to the 'Holy Trinity' sleep stack - right before bed smash 40mg doxy, 10mg diazepam, 3.5mg zopiclone. Sleep like such a hero.

Pretty sure I'd sleep fine on that lot! Rather not tho, esp the valium. Prob is I can always get to sleep the first time, just waste 2 or 3 hrs getting to sleep the second!

[Three Nine]

How about getting some glycine? Its harmless, and pretty much everyone could use more in their diet. Dropping a few grams before bed may help?

Also some people find that supplementing with resistant starch helps (go slow and steady tho!)

[filz]

M: work till late. nothing
T: hangs 4x 30" on 30" off. 4 sets
W: shoulder excercises with theraband
T: more theraband
F: repeaters 6x 5" on 5" off x 5. 4 sets
S: isometric weights.
S: Quick session on the board. Repeated a couple of problems, climbed one set last week and a few tries on a new one. Some system. Great session. Feeling strong. Finished with some HIIT

First week of power endurance training. Light week overall. Really happy with my performance on the board on Sunday.

[Duma]

resistant starch helps (go slow and steady tho!)

this sounds uncomfortable!

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - AeroCap, 8/2 x4. Dumbbell thruster 25x2, very tired after bad night. Must keep going with the AeroCap training, I'm sure it's crucial for me. Will start doing it on rest days also.
Tue - rest.
Wed - weights; diagonal work; static dumbbell complex x2, painful.
Thu - cleans, climbing class. Tired.
Fri - anti rotation work; shoulder rotations; boxing bag, combinations and Tabata.
Sat - cleans from ground 5x5 51 kg; muscle snatch 5x3 41 kg; front lever pulls 6x3. Boxing bag, combinations and Tabata. Good!
Sun - board climbing, hard after previous night's party.

Overally tired. I finally understood that 50 reps of snatches and cleans are a bit taxing on the forearms and not the best preparation for a board session the day after. It only took me three years to figure it out.

[Nibile]

S: Great session. Feeling strong. Finished with some HIIT
Really happy with my performance on the board on Sunday.

Must have been the bottle of Finlaggan on Saturday night!

[filz]

S: Great session. Feeling strong. Finished with some HIIT
Really happy with my performance on the board on Sunday.

Must have been the bottle of Finlaggan on Saturday night!

  Or the beans and sausages.. or the cheesecake... or...