[James Malloch]

Cheers - I might go for an evening session locally then and work in the afternoon to save a bit of holiday. Perhaps it would be a good time to try and reacquaint myself with a project that I wouldn't expect to be doing anyway...

[highrepute]

I believe you continue doing reps until you get the same score twice. But do a minimum of 7 reps in total.

[standard]

what you want is the decay to be in intervals less than 5% by the end.
I think the max sets suggested it 8, regardless.

[tk421a]

FYI, Aerobic function is more complicated than 3/1, (my score on assessment is different). I asked Tom since it didn't line up, it uses a bunch of factors including bodyweight held, moves etc.

[StillTryingForTheTop]

Yup, I have been trying to work that one out myself but gave up

FYI, Aerobic function is more complicated than 3/1, (my score on assessment is different). I asked Tom since it didn't line up, it uses a bunch of factors including bodyweight held, moves etc.

[petejh]

At the risk of pointing out the obvious.. Taking your 3rd rep score as a percentage of your first rep max score will still give you a result which reflects your aerobic function, it's still replicable, and you can still use it to benchmark yourself and measure progress in your aero fitness.
As long as the training method is relevant to climbing goals - and it clearly is - it doesn't really matter if the method you use calculate your aerobic score (provided it's based in some sort of logic) tallies with the way the people at Lattice calculate their aerobic score. Unless your need to compare yourself with other Lattice trainees is stronger than your need to simply improve.

[StillTryingForTheTop]

For me, I have done the test with the Lattice guys so ideally I would like to be able to repeat the test again and see where my improvements have materialised from all the training I am doing with them.

This, slightly surprisingly for me at least, isn't included as part of the monthly sign up plan and therefore (unless I wanted to spend another £100) is something I don't have access to

All the other metrics are easily calculated, but I can't tell on that function

For me, the 3/1 would give a result of 47, but my Lattice Aerobic Efficiency score is ~58, with 60 being the bottom end of excellent

At the risk of pointing out the obvious.. Taking your 3rd rep score as a percentage of your first rep max score will still give you a result which reflects your aerobic function, it's still replicable, and you can still use it to benchmark yourself and measure progress in your aero fitness.
As long as the training method is relevant to climbing goals - and it clearly is - it doesn't really matter if the method you use calculate your aerobic score (provided it's based in some sort of logic) tallies with the way the people at Lattice calculate their aerobic score. Unless your need to compare yourself with other Lattice trainees is stronger than your need to simply improve.

[T_B]

Finally got round to doing a Lattice deadhang test, having had 3 days off over the weekend. On the rock my fingers feel just about as strong as ever at the mo.

Due to dodgy left shoulder/back, I only did the right hand.

It seemed to take a long time to warm into the rung and I could only drag it (not half crimp).

Worked up (or down) from -15Kg to -10Kg, which equates to 11.7% of bodyweight.

So yeah, I'm officially crap at deadhanging

[Nibile]

 
I think that you mean -15 kg, that is taking off that weight...
Otherwise one arming the Lattice Edge with 15 kg added is not exactly being crap...

That said, the Lattice Edge is indeed quite hard to hang. I find the big rounded radius particularly nasty for my pinkies, that are quite short compared to the other fingers. I can't stabilize myself in any way and as soon as I start rotating the pinky pops out. Fucking cry me a fucking river, eh?

[T_B]

Doh, yes of course! I need 10Kg of assistance.

Yes, the edge is pretty rounded and feels a bit awkward to me, but maybe that's because I'm not used to one-arm hangs. My guess is I could hold the middle lowest edge on the BM2K with perhaps 'just' 5Kg assistance.

[highrepute]

Doh, yes of course! I need 10Kg of assistance.

Yes, the edge is pretty rounded and feels a bit awkward to me, but maybe that's because I'm not used to one-arm hangs. My guess is I could hold the middle lowest edge on the BM2K with perhaps 'just' 5Kg assistance.

I got a similar "score" as you Tom, in kg. More like 16% body weight. My assessment is when I compare myself to other climbers who climb regularly outside, -10kg ish seems fairly normal for our grade.

I think the lattice data may be skewed by the the type of people taking the test, underperforming outside. Its just a hunch.

[StillTryingForTheTop]

That is certainly me, although I did use my indoor bouldering grade to hopefully slightly compensate.

My finger strength supposedly equates to a V7/V8, however I have only ever done a few outdoor problems (hardest being V4), and indoor I have ticked a couple of "soft" V6 but usually have to project V5.

Hopefully the Lattice team have gathered enough data over the years that results like mine don't skew the data too much

Doh, yes of course! I need 10Kg of assistance.

Yes, the edge is pretty rounded and feels a bit awkward to me, but maybe that's because I'm not used to one-arm hangs. My guess is I could hold the middle lowest edge on the BM2K with perhaps 'just' 5Kg assistance.

I got a similar "score" as you Tom, in kg. More like 16% body weight. My assessment is when I compare myself to other climbers who climb regularly outside, -10kg ish seems fairly normal for our grade.

I think the lattice data may be skewed by the the type of people taking the test, underperforming outside. Its just a hunch.

[Sasquatch]

Doh, yes of course! I need 10Kg of assistance.

Yes, the edge is pretty rounded and feels a bit awkward to me, but maybe that's because I'm not used to one-arm hangs. My guess is I could hold the middle lowest edge on the BM2K with perhaps 'just' 5Kg assistance.

I got a similar "score" as you Tom, in kg. More like 16% body weight. My assessment is when I compare myself to other climbers who climb regularly outside, -10kg ish seems fairly normal for our grade.

I think the lattice data may be skewed by the the type of people taking the test, underperforming outside. Its just a hunch.

Hmmmm.  I, without a doubt, am miles weaker than anyone who I climb w and I'm just a bit worse than T_B for the grade range... 

However, I was well below my grade at everything in the test  

[abarro81]

I'm weak too! I'm weak too! It might be that the numbers need an adjustment for 'days climbed outside over the last x years' or similar in order to account for a disproportionately high number of people who are strength/training/indoor/basic focused taking the test... get to it Tom.

[T_B]

Not to mention factoring in lank to the whole equation!

[StillTryingForTheTop]

I was very weak in other areas though, the test highlighted poor aerobic and anaerobic capacity

5 months of work on those area should hopefully pay off this summer, but as I am predominantly a route climber even if I was to take the test again at the end of the summer with some amazing jump in grade, my bouldering grade will have been unlikely to have increased and thus it would skew the data even more….

I'm weak too! I'm weak too! It might be that the numbers need an adjustment for 'days climbed outside over the last x years' or similar in order to account for a disproportionately high number of people who are strength/training/indoor/basic focused taking the test... get to it Tom.

[jwi]

I'm not sure how the dead hang test is done exactly, but I've had some discussions with a very experienced coach about testing finger strength using deadhangs. Basically he thinks that the best test of finger strength vis-a-vis climbing performance is having an experienced coach looking at slow motion video of the climber on boulder problems at their maximal ability. Other than that he claims (with some back-up from data) that you should not allow people to dead hang edges in the open position when assessing strength as this is mostly a test of a) biomechanical advantage on that specific edge and b) tendon stretch. According to my source any test needs to be done with the fingers in an "active" position (filmed so that you can check in slo-mo on replay that the fingers are working actively).

[petejh]

What are the approximate grade correlations for the deadhang test? Think I'm probably strong for the grade (100% bodyweight LH / 97% bodyweight RH)

[nai]

I think it depends on the route style.

Might have imagined it but I think when they launched their rung the blurb stated that the avergae finger strength for Mecca was -1kg.  But as I type I'm questioning myself and wondering of it was +1kg?

Anyway, you're in the ballpark

Although whether that's for a 5s test hang or a 10s training hang is anybody's guess.

[coulster]

100% body weight for 5 seconds relates to 8b+ and 8A I believe, so you're looking good for Mecca.

I am in the camp for piss week for the grade I climb but I obviously there's a huge difference to stamina plodding in Spain to your average route at the Tor!

[abarro81]

All I know is that climbing Mecca is a lot easier than hanging that edge 1 armed!

[petejh]

All I know is the grade correlation for 6'4'' differs to that for 5'10''

[reeve]

Whilst I would hate to dissuade anyone from mocking Barrows for being so tall it's cheating, I do agree with him here Pete. For reference since you've seen me climb lately, I last measured myself on the lattice rung in February (would be similar now) and I need -10kg for each arm. I think it's desperate!

[nai]

yeah, -/+1kg/BW might have been on their old rung. The new one is much harder.

[Nibile]

The new one is much harder.

Get the fuck in.