Author Topic: Using a latticeboard  (Read 11075 times)

Offline T_B

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #50 on: February 08, 2017, 01:15:18 pm »
Basically it's 2 seconds a move.

Online nik at work

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #51 on: February 08, 2017, 02:10:33 pm »
Isn't someone contractually obliged to make a quip about sharks climbing speed at this point?

Offline 36chambers

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #52 on: February 08, 2017, 02:14:48 pm »
Isn't someone contractually obliged to make a quip about sharks climbing speed at this point?

looks like they were too slow
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Offline andy_e

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #53 on: February 08, 2017, 02:19:09 pm »
Someone sound the "climb faster" horn! Oh wait, shark just fell off going for it.

Offline BicepsMou

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #54 on: February 14, 2017, 03:41:31 pm »
As I don’t have access to a lattice board here on the continent and out of curiosity, so that I can put the mentioned benchmarks in better context, could you enlighten me about the typical set-up of the lattice board in terms of:

-   inclination / overhang
-   edge depth of the rungs
-   are these flat edges (perpendicular to the board) or incut?

THX!
no native speaker - so good luck in guessing what I really intended to express  :-)

Offline T_B

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #55 on: February 14, 2017, 04:28:59 pm »
The one at the Foundry is 27.5 degrees.

The holds are like banisters i.e. rounded incuts first two joints.

You're not supposed to use yer thumbs.

Offline BicepsMou

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #56 on: February 14, 2017, 07:22:43 pm »
Thx T_B!

Plus I have learned a new word, had to look up banister  ;D
no native speaker - so good luck in guessing what I really intended to express  :-)

Offline dave

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #57 on: February 15, 2017, 08:18:17 am »
Banisters you say? This whole concept has just gone up a notch in my estimation*.

*Now on notch #1
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Offline Nibile

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #58 on: February 19, 2017, 06:23:01 pm »
Ok, so I'm about to test myself with the Lattice protocol on my system board.
I was wondering, I've always taken the time, not giving specific importance tothe number of moves: should I just forget about the time and just try to CLIMB FASTER™ to complete as many moves as possible?
On my board, as you may have seen, the rithm can be easily tweaked because I only have one foothold, so I do up and down - 12 moves - before swapping feet. 12 straight moves can be easily paced.
Opinions?

Just done the first set, did 3' and 76 moves (could have climbed quite faster at the start).
Last test five months ago was 3'20" and 68 moves.
PB at the beginning of last Summer 3'40", don't know how many moves.

I've only done the 30/30 x 5 and 1/1 x 5 as of late, with a few sessions of 8/2 x 2.
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

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Offline shark

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #59 on: February 19, 2017, 06:31:10 pm »
I was wondering, I've always taken the time, not giving specific importance tothe number of moves: should I just forget about the time and just try to CLIMB FASTER™ to complete as many moves as possible?

The recommended pace is two seconds a move. I use a metronome app on my phone if I need to slow down on a systems board
We're gonna need a bigger boat

Offline Nibile

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #60 on: February 19, 2017, 06:53:30 pm »
Ok cheers. I'll use the metronome as well, I've been either too slow or too fast.
Now then.
I've messed up a bit with rest times also...  :oops:
Anyway:
1. 3' and 76 moves. 20' rest. More or less on time.
2. 2'15" and 57 moves. Slow. Rested too much.
3. 1'40" and 72 moves. Fast! 40" too fast!
4. 1' and 42 moves. 20" too fast.

I have to take into the equation that swapping feet takes around 2,5".

It's fun, but next time I'll have to be more accurate.
Board specs: 53 degrees, incut rungs (full first joint and half middle on the radius), 20 cm spacings, incut big foothold, matching on every move.

Opinions welcome.
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline andy_e

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Offline Nibile

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #62 on: February 20, 2017, 10:07:54 am »
 ;D
Just noticed that I misspelled "rhythm". The many uses of a Latticeboard thread.
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline BicepsMou

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #63 on: February 22, 2017, 09:50:03 am »
Would also have been curious to see if / how the Lattice analysis principle can be transferred to another wall setting. Relevant for those outside of the UK not having access to the original LB setup.

Nibs, was your idea to replicate the 7-8 sets as described in the present thread and to interpret the relative times / number of moves in the Lattice-logic, e.g. comparing 3rd rep to 2nd for aerobic etc.?

I guess this would imply to follow the prescribed timings more rigorously, as you had also mentioned. Have you repeated your tries yet with a more ‘correct’ 2’’ rhythm yet?
no native speaker - so good luck in guessing what I really intended to express  :-)

Offline Nibile

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #64 on: February 22, 2017, 11:12:24 am »
Nibs, was your idea to replicate the 7-8 sets as described in the present thread and to interpret the relative times / number of moves in the Lattice-logic, e.g. comparing 3rd rep to 2nd for aerobic etc.?
Absolutely yes.
I guess this would imply to follow the prescribed timings more rigorously, as you had also mentioned. Have you repeated your tries yet with a more ‘correct’ 2’’ rhythm yet?
Not yet.

Did I mess it up? Absolutely yes. I'm always keen to measure myself against the numbers, especially if I believe I'm poor at it, like for endurance, a quality that I've never had.
But of course I got a bit overexcited and messed up. At first I thought that between set 2 and 3 there was another 20' rest, but I was wrong. When I found out I was already at 4'.
Then, I knew that rhythm was a factor, but I discovered later about the 2" advised per move.
In the past I've only timed my efforts, without counting the moves, and not minding about the pace of the moves.

Will try again in a few days when properly rested (as if...) because when I tried it I could feel that my forearms were a bit tight even before starting. Probably spending the weekend riding my 2 stroke Yamaha, training with my trap bar, partying and sleeping poorly could have had an effect.

In any case, while on the matter of timing, I was wondering if shakeouts are allowed on the max efforts, or if one should simply keep motoring with the 2" per move rhythm with no attempts at recovering.
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline Duma

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #65 on: February 22, 2017, 11:30:49 am »
Probably spending the weekend riding my 2 stroke Yamaha, training with my trap bar, partying and sleeping poorly could have had an effect.

this sounds ace! I look fwd to similar
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Offline Nibile

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #66 on: February 22, 2017, 11:36:39 am »
Probably spending the weekend riding my 2 stroke Yamaha, training with my trap bar, partying and sleeping poorly could have had an effect.

this sounds ace! I look fwd to similar
To be honest it was gorgeous and well worth the pain of doing poorly on the test!!!
 :2thumbsup:

Maybe it could implement the Lattice test!
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline James Malloch

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #67 on: March 19, 2017, 10:35:33 pm »
Does anyone know the difference between the Lattice assessment (done by Lattice) and the Foundary Lattice assessment?

Noticed there was a bit of a price difference so wondered if there is anything different in the output.

Offline Nibile

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #68 on: April 05, 2017, 11:13:42 pm »
Took a short version of the test today, after my max hangs session. Not smart, I know, but I had some time.
Instead of counting the moves I just went with the usual flow and timed my laps.
1. 3' then 20' rest.
2. 75% of 1. so 2'15" then 2'15" rest.
3. 1'30" so 50% of 1.
Then had to go back to work.
So, what can I understand from these data?
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Online Muenchener

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #69 on: April 05, 2017, 11:16:35 pm »
Then had to go back to work.

i.e. more max hangs?
jawohl!

Offline Nibile

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #70 on: April 06, 2017, 07:38:32 am »
 ;D
I wish.
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline petejh

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #71 on: April 07, 2017, 03:46:30 pm »
Took a short version of the test today, after my max hangs session. Not smart, I know, but I had some time.
Instead of counting the moves I just went with the usual flow and timed my laps.
1. 3' then 20' rest.
2. 75% of 1. so 2'15" then 2'15" rest.
3. 1'30" so 50% of 1.
Then had to go back to work.
So, what can I understand from these data?

Think it means your aerobic capacity is (unsurprisingly) screwed. But you'd need a qualified coach to confirm this.

Offline Rocksteady

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #72 on: April 20, 2017, 10:28:16 am »
I recently did a lattice test and found it a really interesting and useful experience. Not to mention quite exhuasting and an eye opener in terms of training intensity.

Not often mentioned is there are components of strength measurement and movement skills as well as physical stability, on top of the endurance analysis. I was very pleased to do well on the shoulder stability tests having spent much of the last 3 years doing a lot of work on this post injury/impingement. But I felt that there was a height disadvantage for a 6' like myself on the twisting test - felt quite bunched with the drop knee positions required.

Anyway, I confirmed one thing I sort of knew, which is that I am weak - was an outlier in weak fingers for someone who has climbed 7c in the last year and at the bottom end of the bar for font 7A too. Have not spent much time training fingers specifically and don't seem to get gains like others do just from climbing so it's the fingerboard for me.
Didn't know I had above average aerobic endurance for my grade, or that I had poor anaerobic capacity, although this makes sense in that I've never done an ancap session.

Have 6 weeks to train for a sport rock trip now...probably will focus on strength training and aerobic power to make the most of what I already have, then address anaerobic deficiencies afterwards.

Anyway, sorry for the rambling post. Just a plug for getting an actual assessment session done, if you can / can be bothered as personally I got more out of it than I think I would have just by getting on a lattice board and self-analysing.
"Don’t use for every stupid thing an excuse. There is not too short, too tall, too heavy, too warm, too wet, too humid. There is just one excuse: too weak." Alex Megos, Jan 2016

Offline James Malloch

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #73 on: April 20, 2017, 12:47:11 pm »
I recently did a lattice test and found it a really interesting and useful experience. Not to mention quite exhuasting and an eye opener in terms of training intensity.

Not often mentioned is there are components of strength measurement and movement skills as well as physical stability, on top of the endurance analysis. I was very pleased to do well on the shoulder stability tests having spent much of the last 3 years doing a lot of work on this post injury/impingement. But I felt that there was a height disadvantage for a 6' like myself on the twisting test - felt quite bunched with the drop knee positions required.

Anyway, I confirmed one thing I sort of knew, which is that I am weak - was an outlier in weak fingers for someone who has climbed 7c in the last year and at the bottom end of the bar for font 7A too. Have not spent much time training fingers specifically and don't seem to get gains like others do just from climbing so it's the fingerboard for me.
Didn't know I had above average aerobic endurance for my grade, or that I had poor anaerobic capacity, although this makes sense in that I've never done an ancap session.

Have 6 weeks to train for a sport rock trip now...probably will focus on strength training and aerobic power to make the most of what I already have, then address anaerobic deficiencies afterwards.

Anyway, sorry for the rambling post. Just a plug for getting an actual assessment session done, if you can / can be bothered as personally I got more out of it than I think I would have just by getting on a lattice board and self-analysing.

Glad to hear you found it useful - I have mine booked in on Wednesday next week and I'm really interested to hear the results.

As an aside, and I know this will differ from person to person, how did you feel afterwards?

Mine is at 10:30am and I've the day off work for it. I'm trying to decide if it's worth trying to get out climbing afterwards given I'll be travelling down to Sheffield. Though I feel the answer may be that I'll feel pretty beaten afterwards!

Offline Rocksteady

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Re: Using a latticeboard
« Reply #74 on: April 20, 2017, 02:43:55 pm »
I recently did a lattice test and found it a really interesting and useful experience. Not to mention quite exhuasting and an eye opener in terms of training intensity.



Glad to hear you found it useful - I have mine booked in on Wednesday next week and I'm really interested to hear the results.

As an aside, and I know this will differ from person to person, how did you feel afterwards?

Mine is at 10:30am and I've the day off work for it. I'm trying to decide if it's worth trying to get out climbing afterwards given I'll be travelling down to Sheffield. Though I feel the answer may be that I'll feel pretty beaten afterwards!

Personally I felt pretty trashed. I think with a few hours' rest and some food I'd have been fine to have a climb. But I tried to have a bit of a bouldering session straight afterwards and had very little in the tank.

The anaerobic test I found pretty tiring and it felt like good training! I guess if you're used to doing anaerobic sessions you might feel better afterwards than I did.
"Don’t use for every stupid thing an excuse. There is not too short, too tall, too heavy, too warm, too wet, too humid. There is just one excuse: too weak." Alex Megos, Jan 2016