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Using a latticeboard (Read 11650 times)

nai

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#100 Re: Using a latticeboard
May 23, 2017, 07:32:10 am
yeah, -/+1kg/BW might have been on their old rung. The new one is much harder.

Nibile

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#101 Re: Using a latticeboard
May 23, 2017, 08:27:24 am
The new one is much harder.
Get the fuck in.
 :dance1:

petejh

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#102 Re: Using a latticeboard
May 23, 2017, 09:07:58 am
Whilst I would hate to dissuade anyone from mocking Barrows for being so tall it's cheating, I do agree with him here Pete. For reference since you've seen me climb lately, I last measured myself on the lattice rung in February (would be similar now) and I need -10kg for each arm. I think it's desperate!
[/quote

Bonkers isn't it.. going purely off comparative finger-strength tests and seeing how close you are on Mecca, I should have sent by now with ease. You've seen me climb - I'm nowhere near yet! (Although I do have to contend with opening jacket zips..)

Nai when did the rungs change?

nai

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#103 Re: Using a latticeboard
May 23, 2017, 04:35:14 pm
They released a production rung back end of last year, harder compared to a standard campus rung or the BM2K middle slot.

http://latticetraining.com/product/lattice-rung/

reeve

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#104 Re: Using a latticeboard
May 23, 2017, 04:44:25 pm
Whilst I would hate to dissuade anyone from mocking Barrows for being so tall it's cheating, I do agree with him here Pete. For reference since you've seen me climb lately, I last measured myself on the lattice rung in February (would be similar now) and I need -10kg for each arm. I think it's desperate!

Bonkers isn't it.. going purely off comparative finger-strength tests and seeing how close you are on Mecca, I should have sent by now with ease. You've seen me climb - I'm nowhere near yet! (Although I do have to contend with opening jacket zips..)

Nai when did the rungs change?

You've got your jacket zips, I've got my jars of honey. We've all got problems Pete!

Thinking about it a bit more, I think that the lattice test shows me as being artificially weak (not that I'm naturally strong, far from it). I'm far better crimping than open handed, but as this isn't allowed on the test (and I don't like to dead hang in full-crimp either), I did my -10kg with front 3 open, my weakest grip in real life but strongest for 1-arm dead hanging. I also think that shoulder strength and stability play a bit part in the test, so I wonder if that boosts your test score relative to mine? (I'm making the assumption that your shoulders are stronger than mine - it's an assumption I regularly make about people I don't really know but it tends to turn out correct).

Nai - I thought the -1kg for Mecca / 8b+ was using the new rung

AJM

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#105 Re: Using a latticeboard
May 23, 2017, 06:45:18 pm

Nai - I thought the -1kg for Mecca / 8b+ was using the new rung

Engraved on a new rung on a Facebook advertising blurb thing I shared on my profile a while back, so assume so

nai

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#106 Re: Using a latticeboard
May 23, 2017, 08:29:55 pm

Nai - I thought the -1kg for Mecca / 8b+ was using the new rung

Engraved on a new rung on a Facebook advertising blurb thing I shared on my profile a while back, so assume so
fair enough. I thought the figures would have come out of their database which would have been built on data from the old rung at that point.

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petejh

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#107 Re: Using a latticeboard
May 23, 2017, 09:22:00 pm
It's that new rung that I tested myself on. Totally all over 'Mecca' like a rash.. hmm..

Shoulder strength could be a factor, mine are relatively strong from lots of burly drytooling, mixed climbing and jacket zip-operating over the years.

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#108 Re: Using a latticeboard
May 23, 2017, 09:46:39 pm
fair enough. I thought the figures would have come out of their database which would have been built on data from the old rung at that point.

Disclaimer: I work for Lattice.

There's a combination of old rung and standard rung scores in the database. We did a bit of a comparison between the two so we can compare scores. The reference numbers (e.g. -1kg for Mecca) are all based on the new rung, and we're going to try and use the new rung as a reference wherever possible.

StillTryingForTheTop

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#109 Re: Using a latticeboard
May 24, 2017, 08:58:27 am
When you say it isn't allowed to crimp in the test, that is not 100% correct (although obviously it is down to definition)

You can 'half' crimp, you just can't engage the thumb.

also I agree with the shoulder strength / stability point.

I can hang substantially more BW% on the Loughborough Lattice edge than I can on the outer bottom BM1000 edges, I put this down to the fact at Loughborough I am able to get underneath and hang at a tangent to the board where as my setup at home requires me to hang square on, in fact one of the problems I have training at home is as I get tired I tend to 'chicken wing' my arm.




You've got your jacket zips, I've got my jars of honey. We've all got problems Pete!

Thinking about it a bit more, I think that the lattice test shows me as being artificially weak (not that I'm naturally strong, far from it). I'm far better crimping than open handed, but as this isn't allowed on the test (and I don't like to dead hang in full-crimp either), I did my -10kg with front 3 open, my weakest grip in real life but strongest for 1-arm dead hanging. I also think that shoulder strength and stability play a bit part in the test, so I wonder if that boosts your test score relative to mine? (I'm making the assumption that your shoulders are stronger than mine - it's an assumption I regularly make about people I don't really know but it tends to turn out correct).

Nai - I thought the -1kg for Mecca / 8b+ was using the new rung

Nibile

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#110 Re: Using a latticeboard
May 24, 2017, 11:18:20 am
From what I know, the Lattice Edge references are for a four fingers half crimp, at whatever angle.
In other words, no full crimp and no open fingers or dragging front3.
In my experience the Lattice Edge is a lot harder than the bottom BM rung, mostly because of the bigger radius of the rounded edge. This makes it more affected by humidity and skin condition. Moreover, even the slightest movement or torsion makes my pinky pop off (I've got short pinkies). It's a bit frustrating, because I feel that I have more but somehow fail to apply it fully to the Edge.
So, I'd like to try and use a pulley to stabilize my body, rearranging the added weight of the hangs so that it's the same of before. Let's see. Temps around 27/28 degrees already, so not exactly prime conditions for hard fingerboarding.
We'll see.
I'm glad I bought a Lattice Edge though, it feels good to have references.

nai

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#111 Re: Using a latticeboard
May 24, 2017, 11:51:29 am
I'm glad I bought a Lattice Edge though, it feels good to have references.

Likewise, Im glad I use a home made edge so I can drift along on a wave of delusion

Nibile

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#112 Re: Using a latticeboard
May 24, 2017, 12:24:52 pm
I'm glad I bought a Lattice Edge though, it feels good to have references.

Likewise, Im glad I use a home made edge so I can drift along on a wave of delusion
You're lucky then, I was obsessed even with a home made edge. My own references are the toughest ones because I have no excuses with them.

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#113 Re: Using a latticeboard
May 24, 2017, 07:14:56 pm
 So Tom gives someof the details of the testing and analysis in his training beta podcast https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tom-randall/

If I remember rightly he says the protocol is to have one hand on the rung, one on a pulley and keep removing weight from the pulley until it's just 5kg. Then to add weight (from a harness or vest, I'm not sure) to the climber who is still supposed to use the pulley with 5kg on it for stability.

Also (again, if I remember correctly) he says having the finger strength to hang 70kg from the rung (body weight plus added weight is sufficient to climb 9a (with enough endurance I guess).

I haven't listened to it in a while, so correct me if I'm wrong.

Nibile

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#114 Re: Using a latticeboard
May 24, 2017, 11:41:38 pm
Also (again, if I remember correctly) he says having the finger strength to hang 70kg from the rung (body weight plus added weight is sufficient to climb 9a (with enough endurance I guess).
Brilliant news. I'm taking the tick then. Fantastic week, 8C and 9a.

petejh

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#115 Re: Using a latticeboard
July 05, 2017, 06:37:21 pm
Currently at the wall reading the latticeboard training info sheets. The 'An Cap workout' makes mention of 'choosing one of the 4 circuit options' but gives no explanation of what the other 3 circuits are..  (I've asked the staff - they either don't know or are too busy with groups etc.)

What are the other 3 circuit options?

Here's an idea, might seem crazy... if you put up a training info sheet that says 'choose 1 of 4 circuit options' then put up info on what those 4 circuit options are.  :-\
« Last Edit: July 05, 2017, 06:50:19 pm by petejh »

abarro81

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#116 Re: Using a latticeboard
July 05, 2017, 07:37:38 pm
Hands below the 'X' instead of above
Gastons
Resin dishes

Obviously undercuts and small pinches also possible but hard, too hard for an cap unless you climb 9b

petejh

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#117 Re: Using a latticeboard
July 05, 2017, 09:49:16 pm
Cheers. Will give the slightly harder circuits a try next time I'm at the wall doing ancap. Ended up doing back to back probs on the moonboard, which works well.

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#118 Re: Using a latticeboard
July 06, 2017, 10:46:19 pm
100% body weight for 5 seconds relates to 8b+ and 8A I believe, so you're looking good for Mecca.

I am in the camp for piss week for the grade I climb but I obviously there's a huge difference to stamina plodding in Spain to your average route at the Tor!

Thinking about this. I'm not interested in what the average required to climb 8A is. I want to know what the weakest I can be and still climb 8A is.

Nibile

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#119 Re: Using a latticeboard
July 06, 2017, 11:29:50 pm
The Lattice references work the other way round, that is not in a predictive way. They are the result of testing people that have climbed a certain grade and not of training people on the Edge until they reach a certain level on that and then letting them out on rock to see which grade they can climb.
The average for climbing 8a is to one arm the Edge taking off 2 kg IIRC.
The average for climbing 7c is to take off 7 kg IIRC.
Maybe we can argue that somewhere in between the two values lies the magic formula of being weak and climbing 8a.
Not taking into account which kind of 8a we are talking about.
Bit the true question still stands: why do you want to be weakest you can?
 :shrug: