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Idiot question - foot-on campus laddering, what am I training? (Read 3411 times)

chris j

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Context - due to recent arrival of offspring #2 my only climbing at the moment is evening sessions every other day of ~1hr on my 35 degree garage board after the rest of the house is asleep. I've got into the habit of finishing alternate sessions with a few sets of foot-on laddering up and down the campus rungs on the board, 3 mins rest between each go. Currently I last about 1min 10secs on the first set before it feels like my forearms turn to jelly, decreasing by approx 5 secs each set thereafter.

I don't have much of a clue about energy systems and where this would fall in the Anpow, Aerocap etc range so what would this this be training? or does it not train anything in particular and fall into junk mileage? Assuming I keep on with it and improve, would I want to increase the length of the set until failure or cap each set at a max length and do more sets, or shorten rest times?

Outdoor climbing is a dim and distant dream at present but when it does I'll most likely go back to projecting the likes of Avenged at Ansteys, I'm vaguely hoping this laddering will help me through the crux middle section (mostly as the holds are not dissimilar in size...), any thoughts on of this will be useful, or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Thanks in advance!


highrepute

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Would have thought this would have got at least one reply.

AeroPow i think. You're getting pumped right?

Your goal is very specific - Avenged. Just match the training as closely as possible to that route - feet-on campusing ain't a bad idea, not wasted mileage. You should try matching the number of moves or time climbing to the route.

When I feet-on campus I have 2 variations.
1. go to failure and repeat
2. 1min on, 1min off x3 - rest for 5 mins between sets. (adjust the 1min to suit yourself, I aim to start failing on the final rep after 4 sets)

I do the first to improve my ability to keep going when I'm totally fucked. I think this is probably useful but because you get really tired the later sets are probably not as effective training.

I do the second more often - I can be at a high level of pump but do a larger number of moves in total. I feel more pumped doing this one, the first one I tend to get too tired to get pumped after the first few sets.

but i'd not copy me I'd tailor what you're doing to the route you want to climb.

Paul B

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AeroPow i think. You're getting pumped right?

Refer to section 7:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-40C59n2E_4aVRyYjY5U1Rtc2c/edit

although from my reading it doesn't fit well into any category, it's at the long end for AnCap.

Three Nine

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Context - due to recent arrival of offspring #2 my only climbing at the moment is evening sessions every other day of ~1hr on my 35 degree garage board after the rest of the house is asleep. I've got into the habit of finishing alternate sessions with a few sets of foot-on laddering up and down the campus rungs on the board, 3 mins rest between each go. Currently I last about 1min 10secs on the first set before it feels like my forearms turn to jelly, decreasing by approx 5 secs each set thereafter.

I don't have much of a clue about energy systems and where this would fall in the Anpow, Aerocap etc range so what would this this be training? or does it not train anything in particular and fall into junk mileage? Assuming I keep on with it and improve, would I want to increase the length of the set until failure or cap each set at a max length and do more sets, or shorten rest times?

Outdoor climbing is a dim and distant dream at present but when it does I'll most likely go back to projecting the likes of Avenged at Ansteys, I'm vaguely hoping this laddering will help me through the crux middle section (mostly as the holds are not dissimilar in size...), any thoughts on of this will be useful, or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Thanks in advance!


Aeropow probably. Possibly a bit of anpow - its not like these things are binary. Good exercise to train for that route, but i'd leave it until 4-8 weeks before you're likely to be redpointing the route. Otherwise you'll a) potentially compromise your strength adaption b) be more tired for your next strength session than you otherwise would be - see a)

Given that its January atm, and empire wall is often seeping for a lot of winter, I wouldn't be doing this exercise atm if it were me.

joble

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You'll be giving your boredom threshold a major beasting :-\

chris j

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Thanks all, and especially Paul for the link.

I suspect at the moment it is the long end of AnCap as I'm not massively pumped. So from Alex's tome for AnCap I would shorten the time to <50secs and then do ~8-10 reps. Or for AeroPow shorten the time to ~1min and more or less half the rest time and still do 8 reps... But in either case going to failure in the first reps is a no-no. Now to work out which I need to help best with going from the reasonably pumpy first 15 move section through the 8 moves on small holds to the pockets (ignoring the not quite trivial finishing section to the Empire jugs)

Or alternatively follow highrepute and habrich's suggestions, go more specific to the route, sack off the foot-on campussing and put a 15 move medium pumpy sequence into a small edgy sequence. This has a certain appeal but I recall I tried something similar a few years ago (without a specific goal at the time) and didn't persevere because of how depressingly crap I was. Which tells me it is something I ought to bite the bullet and try...

Anyway, juggling occasional offshore work with the family I doubt I'll be there before April (or May, June...) so there is time to work with!



highrepute

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