Quote from: Coops_13 on January 08, 2017, 05:13:22 pmJust got back from a week in the states visiting the girlfriend, fairly good start to the year. She goes to the gym quite a lot so I went with her a couple of times. She's v impressive, deadlift almost twice body weight, squat 1.5X etc.1st: Gym, back and shoulders. Felt weak on my "forte" after a few weeks of heavy eating and resting2nd: Gym deadlifts and squats. First ever time deadlifting, did 100 pounds over bodyweight? Also squatted my bodyweight (haven't really done squats before either)3rd: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 17,000 steps, 122 mins of activity4th: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 27,000 steps, 204 mins of activity5th: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 21,000 steps, 154 mins of activity6th-8th: Nothing9th: Squash, beat housemate 5-310th: Indoors, first climbing session of the year. Felt weak, got pumped on PE boulders. Climbed fairly well11th: 5-a-side footie, cardio is shocking. Tweaked my hip.12th Indoors, very busy wall and nothing new set for about two months. Elbow slightly tweaky after
Just got back from a week in the states visiting the girlfriend, fairly good start to the year. She goes to the gym quite a lot so I went with her a couple of times. She's v impressive, deadlift almost twice body weight, squat 1.5X etc.1st: Gym, back and shoulders. Felt weak on my "forte" after a few weeks of heavy eating and resting2nd: Gym deadlifts and squats. First ever time deadlifting, did 100 pounds over bodyweight? Also squatted my bodyweight (haven't really done squats before either)3rd: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 17,000 steps, 122 mins of activity4th: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 27,000 steps, 204 mins of activity5th: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 21,000 steps, 154 mins of activity6th-8th: Nothing
Quote from: James Malloch on January 13, 2017, 09:55:06 amQuote from: James Malloch on January 04, 2017, 07:43:27 pmI'll give it a go this year...1st - bouldering at the depot2nd - bouldering at Crookrise3rd - bouldering at Almscliff4th - yoga class5th - Yoga Class6th - FAIL. had full intentions of going to yoga again or the wall but was drawn to the pub after work following a long day and late finish. 7th - Day of walking around and wading through rivers Coverdale in N.Yorks looking at my gf's PhD site. 8th - Semi-fail. This was a day of jobs so half a day of walking around Leeds to get various things for DIY jobs. Some finger rehab/stretching in the evening though I'm not sure moving one finger constitutes as exercise...9th - Went for a run and did some stretching. Run was only 3k but I'm slowly getting back into it following injury last year. First one for a while without any pain but it was slow (5:50/km). Would love to get back to a c.20m 5k this year but I doubt it'll happen unfortunately. Lots of stretching after this which need to do more regularly.10th - Evening at Leeds Wall with the Leeds Mountaineering Club. Really nice bunch of people and I'm looking forward to getting involved with them this year. 11th - No exercise as such but lots of finger rehab. I saw a hand specialist physio in North Leeds which turned out to be £65 for a session (thank got my work health insurance covers it) and it was worth every penny in my opinion. I assumed it was a pulley injury, and it might have been originally, but following a lot of tests the diagnosis was as follows:Pulleys all seemed okay in the tests I was asked to do. FDP tendon functioned okay.FDS tendon appears okayish but seems to be causing the problem. It seems I have some scar tissue above and below my PIP joint on my right ring finger which she believed is aggravating the FDS tendon where it ends joins to the finger above the joint, and where the FDP tendon passes through it below the joint. Rehab is to isolate that finger with predominantly two exercises to try and break down the tissue and help the tendons move over each other more smoothly. Plus lots of general massage. No need to stop climbing as long as I'm being sensible and reducing my grade/open handing things. I'm due back in 4 weeks to see how it goes. Positives are that she doesn't think it's actual damage and it is just a build up of reasonably immature scar tissue from previous injuries that can be broken down. Negatives are that after a few days of rehab it's constantly aching, but that's to be expected. 12th - Yoga class in the evening.13th - Wine... Though lots of finger exercises throughout the day. 14th - Day out in the lakes walking up Coniston old man and along the tops from the summit. Beautiful day with great views.15th - Finger and Knee physio in between a day of visiting family and diy planning...
Quote from: James Malloch on January 04, 2017, 07:43:27 pmI'll give it a go this year...1st - bouldering at the depot2nd - bouldering at Crookrise3rd - bouldering at Almscliff4th - yoga class5th - Yoga Class6th - FAIL. had full intentions of going to yoga again or the wall but was drawn to the pub after work following a long day and late finish. 7th - Day of walking around and wading through rivers Coverdale in N.Yorks looking at my gf's PhD site. 8th - Semi-fail. This was a day of jobs so half a day of walking around Leeds to get various things for DIY jobs. Some finger rehab/stretching in the evening though I'm not sure moving one finger constitutes as exercise...9th - Went for a run and did some stretching. Run was only 3k but I'm slowly getting back into it following injury last year. First one for a while without any pain but it was slow (5:50/km). Would love to get back to a c.20m 5k this year but I doubt it'll happen unfortunately. Lots of stretching after this which need to do more regularly.10th - Evening at Leeds Wall with the Leeds Mountaineering Club. Really nice bunch of people and I'm looking forward to getting involved with them this year. 11th - No exercise as such but lots of finger rehab. I saw a hand specialist physio in North Leeds which turned out to be £65 for a session (thank got my work health insurance covers it) and it was worth every penny in my opinion. I assumed it was a pulley injury, and it might have been originally, but following a lot of tests the diagnosis was as follows:Pulleys all seemed okay in the tests I was asked to do. FDP tendon functioned okay.FDS tendon appears okayish but seems to be causing the problem. It seems I have some scar tissue above and below my PIP joint on my right ring finger which she believed is aggravating the FDS tendon where it ends joins to the finger above the joint, and where the FDP tendon passes through it below the joint. Rehab is to isolate that finger with predominantly two exercises to try and break down the tissue and help the tendons move over each other more smoothly. Plus lots of general massage. No need to stop climbing as long as I'm being sensible and reducing my grade/open handing things. I'm due back in 4 weeks to see how it goes. Positives are that she doesn't think it's actual damage and it is just a build up of reasonably immature scar tissue from previous injuries that can be broken down. Negatives are that after a few days of rehab it's constantly aching, but that's to be expected. 12th - Yoga class in the evening.
I'll give it a go this year...1st - bouldering at the depot2nd - bouldering at Crookrise3rd - bouldering at Almscliff4th - yoga class
Quote from: SA Chris on January 13, 2017, 12:18:03 pmQuote from: SA Chris on January 09, 2017, 01:37:27 pm1. Family walk yesterday, plus an unenthusiastic couple of sets of curls while watching Screenwipe.13 st 8 1/2 this morning2. 2 hour bouldering session, a few probs, then attempted laps on some longer steeper probs.3. 2 hours surfing - pretty knackered arms after bouldering, but still had a good session.4. 13st 6 this morning, off for another boudering session shortly.5. half hour walk at lunch6. token core session7. Walk with kids, sandwiched by eating too much before and then cake afterwards.8. Long walk with kids - a bit ambitious bth - near mutiny by the end, left it a bit late and it was getting dark.back to 13st 8, weekends are never good for dieting.9th - bouldered - pretty good session down wall, reset on 2 boards so loads to go at.10th - short run with son as beavers was cancelled. Token light core session in evening11th - bouldered - think ski from monday, but still had a good session, managed 2 of 3 aims for the evening.12th - a few short walks in day, token pushup session.Weight 13st 7. need to do a long run or two to burn a bit off.One beer consumed this month.13th - walk, some core.14th - run 7.7 km in 50 min s - slow, very icy.15th - short walk with kids. Light fingerboard session, first in ages. Better work!
Quote from: SA Chris on January 09, 2017, 01:37:27 pm1. Family walk yesterday, plus an unenthusiastic couple of sets of curls while watching Screenwipe.13 st 8 1/2 this morning2. 2 hour bouldering session, a few probs, then attempted laps on some longer steeper probs.3. 2 hours surfing - pretty knackered arms after bouldering, but still had a good session.4. 13st 6 this morning, off for another boudering session shortly.5. half hour walk at lunch6. token core session7. Walk with kids, sandwiched by eating too much before and then cake afterwards.8. Long walk with kids - a bit ambitious bth - near mutiny by the end, left it a bit late and it was getting dark.back to 13st 8, weekends are never good for dieting.9th - bouldered - pretty good session down wall, reset on 2 boards so loads to go at.10th - short run with son as beavers was cancelled. Token light core session in evening11th - bouldered - think ski from monday, but still had a good session, managed 2 of 3 aims for the evening.12th - a few short walks in day, token pushup session.Weight 13st 7. need to do a long run or two to burn a bit off.One beer consumed this month.
1. Family walk yesterday, plus an unenthusiastic couple of sets of curls while watching Screenwipe.13 st 8 1/2 this morning2. 2 hour bouldering session, a few probs, then attempted laps on some longer steeper probs.3. 2 hours surfing - pretty knackered arms after bouldering, but still had a good session.4. 13st 6 this morning, off for another boudering session shortly.5. half hour walk at lunch6. token core session7. Walk with kids, sandwiched by eating too much before and then cake afterwards.8. Long walk with kids - a bit ambitious bth - near mutiny by the end, left it a bit late and it was getting dark.back to 13st 8, weekends are never good for dieting.
AnCap with a hangover.
Quote from: Coops_13 on January 13, 2017, 10:21:15 amQuote from: Coops_13 on January 08, 2017, 05:13:22 pmJust got back from a week in the states visiting the girlfriend, fairly good start to the year. She goes to the gym quite a lot so I went with her a couple of times. She's v impressive, deadlift almost twice body weight, squat 1.5X etc.1st: Gym, back and shoulders. Felt weak on my "forte" after a few weeks of heavy eating and resting2nd: Gym deadlifts and squats. First ever time deadlifting, did 100 pounds over bodyweight? Also squatted my bodyweight (haven't really done squats before either)3rd: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 17,000 steps, 122 mins of activity4th: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 27,000 steps, 204 mins of activity5th: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 21,000 steps, 154 mins of activity6th-8th: Nothing9th: Squash, beat housemate 5-310th: Indoors, first climbing session of the year. Felt weak, got pumped on PE boulders. Climbed fairly well11th: 5-a-side footie, cardio is shocking. Tweaked my hip.12th Indoors, very busy wall and nothing new set for about two months. Elbow slightly tweaky after13th: Nothing - Drive up North14th: Simon's Seat15th: Stoney16th: Squash17th: Indoors, good session
Quote from: Coops_13 on January 18, 2017, 09:29:13 amQuote from: Coops_13 on January 13, 2017, 10:21:15 amQuote from: Coops_13 on January 08, 2017, 05:13:22 pmJust got back from a week in the states visiting the girlfriend, fairly good start to the year. She goes to the gym quite a lot so I went with her a couple of times. She's v impressive, deadlift almost twice body weight, squat 1.5X etc.1st: Gym, back and shoulders. Felt weak on my "forte" after a few weeks of heavy eating and resting2nd: Gym deadlifts and squats. First ever time deadlifting, did 100 pounds over bodyweight? Also squatted my bodyweight (haven't really done squats before either)3rd: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 17,000 steps, 122 mins of activity4th: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 27,000 steps, 204 mins of activity5th: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 21,000 steps, 154 mins of activity6th-8th: Nothing9th: Squash, beat housemate 5-310th: Indoors, first climbing session of the year. Felt weak, got pumped on PE boulders. Climbed fairly well11th: 5-a-side footie, cardio is shocking. Tweaked my hip.12th Indoors, very busy wall and nothing new set for about two months. Elbow slightly tweaky after13th: Nothing - Drive up North14th: Simon's Seat15th: Stoney16th: Squash17th: Indoors, good session18th: Five-a-side footie19th: Indoors, bad session20th: Nothing - Drive up North21st: Bradley and Turningstone Edge22nd: Gardoms North23rd: Squash24th: Nothing25th: Five-a-side footie
So so week, only two days to go, think I might make it!Mon 23rd - arch north pottered about 2hrs, new set managed Hendrix in corner v3-5?Flexibility came in handy so yoga seems to be paying off. + 15 mins stretching when I got home.Tues - parents' evening at work. Late yoga app sesh when I got home 30 mins.Weds + Thurs - yoga app 30 mins.Fri - trx rings - pull ups, i,y,t's etc 5a beastmaker app repeaters - hard -7.5kg.Think I need to loose some kgs, eating too much junk.Sat - 30 min yoga app.Sun - arch north 2 hrs - roof reset did a few probs, worked on woodie, circuit board warm down. Will probably do 15 min yoga app in a bit.Sharkathon shown me that I can fit more into my week.In particular stretching using yoga so will continue with this, try to fit in each day.These next few weeks concentrate on fingerboard/beastmaker app + continue to climb 2-3 times a week.This time in 2 weeks off to NYC worried that I will be "incarcerated" in Trump towers.Probably alongside Melanie trump!Have a good week everyone, stay safe.
