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UKB Power Club Week 354 28th Nov - 4th Dec 2016 (Read 22625 times)

tomtom

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UKB Power Club Week 354 28th Nov - 4th Dec 2016
December 04, 2016, 04:11:22 pm


M: Bern - Work

Tu: Bern and home

We: Craig-Y-Longridge. Rubbish. Conditions were not great (dry but spoogy) and I failed on everything I tried. Felt pathetic and went home after 90 min. A truly dismal showing

Th: Work

Fr: Boibage North - Was planning to head to X to meet up with Shark - but he found it wet so diverted to BBG N. Arrived just as Shark and Nick were decamping. Wandered down to Secteur Remergence to re-open my Winter 2016 Blind Date account. Much amusement followed. Mainly surrounding - Shark bringing a rope and harness with him - so he could ab down and try the final moves (once grabbed the lip) on blind date. And.. Shark only took two left foot whites with him from the car (TBH I recon it wouldnt make much difference) and whilst he trotted back to the car - wearing harness in full on punter mode - his rope 'mysteriously' disappeared... :) Don't know how that happened. Anyway, persuaded Shark to try the moves from stacked pads (its kind of ground up) and various attempts were made on various parts of the problem. So, Nick could do the first move really well, and get the slot with LH, but couldnt get the second slot. Shark could do the first move really well and get the slot after a bit of faffing and skin losing, but not the second slot. I couldnt do the first move, but from the ground could pull on the edge crimp and sloper, get the first slot, second slot and reach across for the lip. If you took the best bit from all of us there may have been an an ascent..

Anyway - I discovered a few things.
(1) I need to crimp the first RH hold hard to do the first move.
(2) The only form of sustenance that Shark bought with him was a large block of cheese. That he nibbled on. No carbs :/
(3) Three different climbers, slightly different heights - all probably operating in similar grades all shut down on different parts of what really should be a shit problem, but is actually quite good.

Grand.

Sa:

Su: 3-4 hours sleep as TT jnr had a bad night... out of the house at 7:30 - went up to Remergence again. Minty conditions - took ages to warm up. But did standing to both slots 2nd, 3rd and 4th time... Did first move (that I for some reason have real problems with - 2-3 times in a row. Ran out of skin fast. Fingers were still hurting from Friday - as was my right lat (all that locking off on the RH). Bailed soon after the sun hit it about 9:45. Picked up a hitcher on the way home (First time in years) and had good converstaion for 1/2 the way back.

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You can get it like a clamp with the right thigh to reach the second slot I think  :-\

fried

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Had a Cold all week, skipped all my planned sessions.

Su - Indoors, good session again, but sure the grades are getting really soft, 6B flash, 6B second gox2, Good progress on 6C, Plus lots of volume. Don't look at the grade, just get a decent workout. Should've been outside, but too much work to do.

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STG: Get to the top of a moonboard by any means whatsoever.
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

Bitterly cold, damp & overcast here; chances of getting outside look poor for the foreseeable future. Focus on getting stronger for the spring.

M: Beastmaker max hangs. Benchmarking to see if I improve over the winter. One-handed max hang for ~5 seconds on medium campus rung at with 30kg assistance right, 35kg left. Two handed bodyweight hang on small campus rung 5 secs on, 5 off x 13.
T: Bike one hour
W: Beastmaker max hangs. Another benchmarking session: two handed weighted hang on small campus rung: +20kg ~4 seconds.
T: Boulderwelt. Good session. The lad was tired from kayak club after school so didn't fancy coming, and the wall was relatively quiet, so I was able to take my time trying things a bit more than I usually can on weekday evenings, and get a forty minute core & shoulders session in in the weights room afterwards.
F:
S: Half hour shoulder rehab & mobility
S: Boulderwelt. Not such a good session as Thursday, but ok.

tomtom

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You can get it like a clamp with the right thigh to reach the second slot I think  :-\

I do a really deep flag with my right leg to get my weight under the left slot and can pad my RH up to the slot. Its not quite static, but not a desperate slap... just felt right that way - didnt work for the others..

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Wow, that's some weight through the bad left foot hold!

shark

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10.13-11.1

M. PM Fingerboard repeaters (drag) Eve Foundry Wave Resetting in Furnace so couldn't use my prefered autobelay line for aerocap, Had a go on lattice board to see if 20:10s were feasible. Forgetaboutit. Bouldered on Wave trying hard yellow level 2 in middle. Did all the moves - which I couldnt last time tried it with Dolly. Evening. No hippie utterances. Some quite tough stuff ie sideplanks . Hamstring and shoulder flexibilty woeful.

T. Morning. Blue skies and sub zero. Out to Burbage before 10am. Remergence already in sun but cold enough not to matter. Joined by nai. Progressively better goes including getting hand to left slot. Then got both slots got left foot across to pebble but struggled to get enough traction of right hand hold flailed left hand over top bulge and was off. Maybe should have pressed out on left foot but seems fucking hard. A few more goes after nai left but skin and body was fading and starting to feel less grippy. Headed back to car at 1pm ish. Still heart wrenchingly beautiful day. Couldnt face going back to Sheff and didnt fancy Froggatt where Dolly and Lagers were. On a whim headed to Crag X. Got the top link after half a dozen goes. Then started trying from ground. Got to fingers in slot but didnt hold it. Went back to car to warm up and short nap. Had another go from ground and felt much stronger - got slot then edge to the right - feet flew off but reeled it back in to final footholds -snatched for final flake - Got it but didn't hold it. Back on the mat. Had a few more goes and got as far as slot but was tired. Headed back just after 4pm. In short highpoints on Jericho Road 7B and Blind Date 7B+  ;D

W.  AM Systems board Leaf clearing to warm up. Few pulls on crusher crimps - felt good. Throws and gaston practice. PM AnCap session Eve AeroCap on autobelays

T.

F. Met Nick at crag x at 10. Wet. Drove to Burb N. TT met us there. Cloudy - much warmer than mon but with sun off conditions were mint. Keen to work the top of Blind Date on a rope but was sabotaged. Lots of goes on Blind Date with two goes going for right slot. Then worked top moves off stacked pads. Bullied TT into crimping the first hold. Nick did really well on it as a first visit. Seem to have a sequence but too busted for a redpoint by time we had sussed it. TT left. Me and Nick did Small is Beautiful 7A after about 4 attempts. Started spitting and both tired so went to Outside for coffee. Eve. Fingerboard Repeaters- half crimp. DB finger rolls. Wide pull ups

S. AM Moved a shit ton of leaves and lots of pruning. Lunch Systems board Gastons and throws practice PM More gardening Late PM Tired but managed an AnCap session. Eve Sebs birthday  :pissed:

S. Hungover. Took boys to Far Skyline. Winter sun but a cooold wind. Fell off a 4a! Did some more warm ups then me and Ben got to work unlocking moves on Clamp Arete Sit start 7A+. Good problem, We both did it - Bens first outdoor 7A+ (unless ity gets downgraded). Then did the brilliant The Shepherd 6C+ which was a slabby wall with a very long rock up. Had some goes at Sidepull Wall 7A but was a struggle to stay warm. Seemed like a tall mans problem Got buffeted about in the wind on the walk back

Starting 12 week training programme this week. This should include sessions of 2xWave bouldering, 2xGastons&Throws practice, 2xAnCap, 2xAeroCap, 2xGeneral Strength and 2xFingerboard.Not looking forward to it - I'd much rather fart about on the grit but desperate measures are required

Ace week. Really packed it in. Didnt quite manage all the target training sessions but the Grit conditions were too tempting. Think the general strength sessions I am going to leave out from now on and just keep doing the yoga as a substitute. Otherwise planning to have a similar week this week.

tomtom

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Did some more warm ups then me and Ben got to work unlocking moves on Clamp Arete Sit start 7A+. Good problem, We both did it - Bens first outdoor 7A+ (unless ity gets downgraded).

6C on peakbouldering :/

A good week Shark... all that climb fastertm advice is paying off!

tomtom

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Wow, that's some weight through the bad left foot hold!

:D maybe - for me once its on correctly it doesnt come off.. but getting it on right is tricky - I'm inflexible so its a bit of a flail and paste job rather than precision placement.. I also find the sensitivity of a slipper rather than something stiffer works better for me.. I've been told I'm tall (isnt it just that everyone smaller is short?) so that may help.. I can then keep my LF on that one hold and reach through with my LH for the edge...

nai

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Throws and gaston practice. PM AnCap session

Lunch Systems board Gastons and throws practice. PM Tired but managed an AnCap session.

Didnt quite manage all the target training sessions

Why don't you create an AnCap circuit containing throws and gastons, that'd save you two sessions and you'd get used to fighting through them while powering out.

nai

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stg - sort neck out, keep up the basics.

Mon - Pilates for the first time in an attempt to resolve my back and neck issues. And, as it turns out, another chance for someone to tell me my posture's fucked.  Burnt off by a 70 year old. Not sure.

Tue -
AM - Remergence for a couple of hours with Simon.  Unbelievably poor but proved a nice warm up for....
Lunch - base fingerboard session 10. Much better, performance as per session 6.

Wed - HI AeroCap

Thu physio

Fri -
AM - LI AeroCap 4x10mins
Eve - base fb session 11. Very good, slightly better than where I left off before the enforced break. Might be ready to move on to Maxxies but

Sat - swim, as suggested by physio to help with neck, c800m.  Again, unsure how much it will help.

Sun - nowt

Been stretching & foam rolling everyday trying to sort this neck thing out but nothing seems to be helping. It's getting a bit frustrating now, giving yoga a go tomorrow and booked in for a deep tissue massage on Friday. 

Ommmmm.

tomtom

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Swimming always seems to make my thoracic spine/shoulders feel better... or more worked should I say...

shark

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Throws and gaston practice. PM AnCap session

Lunch Systems board Gastons and throws practice. PM Tired but managed an AnCap session.

Didnt quite manage all the target training sessions

Why don't you create an AnCap circuit containing throws and gastons, that'd save you two sessions and you'd get used to fighting through them while powering out.


Genius

nai

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Swimming always seems to make my thoracic spine/shoulders feel better... or more worked should I say...

generating movement and rotation in and around the thoracic is the idea.  First few lengths I could barely turn enough to take a breathe but things did improve slightly.

shark

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Did some more warm ups then me and Ben got to work unlocking moves on Clamp Arete Sit start 7A+. Good problem, We both did it - Bens first outdoor 7A+ (unless ity gets downgraded).

6C on peakbouldering :/

Wow - that's harsh. 7A is fair. Its harder than Small is Beautiful.

tomtom

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Swimming always seems to make my thoracic spine/shoulders feel better... or more worked should I say...

generating movement and rotation in and around the thoracic is the idea.  First few lengths I could barely turn enough to take a breathe but things did improve slightly.

Doing the hands behind the neck (clasped) elbows together at the front and try and draw a 8 with your elbows ecercise?

Dolly

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M
T Froggatt with Lagers. Despite being -2 at the Chequers the rock was actually pretty warm in the sun -someone was even doing routes in shorts. Great going with Lagers -  he just knows loads of stuff about stuff, so he identified a flock of redwings, some other birds from Norway and a jay just by hearing it. Played and failed on Hot Toddy, which I thought was a great problem. Its not 7a though. Last week I did a 7b in 5 goes and this felt harder. It was too hot but we had a look at Pig heart boy, just to confirm that it needs to be cold.
W I was due to go out riding with fatdoc and Norton, but I'd started to come down with something so decided I couldn't manage it. Managed about 20 minutes of core/kettlebells at the gym , but struggled.
T ill with cold
F I decree today that life is simply taking and not giving
S Managed 5 easy routes at the gym as I still felt weak but couldn't stand the thought of doing nothing. Didn't go to Seb's do as it was my son's 17th - Champagne and curry.
S Went for a walk with youngest to Ox Stones where it was fucking freezing. Burbage North for last hour of daylight. Met a young bloke and showed him how to do Banana Finger and the direct for the first time which he was chuffed with. Its great showing the classic problems to someone who hasn't done them before and just needed a spot and a bit of encouragement.


Hopefully I'm over the cold/virus thing and next week should see some more ticking action

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Busy week but a good day today training wise.

Flights got booked for late-Feb France trip early in the week.

M-S 30 Pressups each day and an easy cycle to work.  Played a gig Thursday so had to practice most evenings and try to finish work before a week off.

Today - Cycled to the Westway to meet Bridbeast and had a great session.  The cycle really helps with warming up. Flashed the last remaining red, flashed two whites and got stuck in to two more.  One went, the other has a nails move. Faded after 1:30 so packed it in.

I'm on a holiday this week doing an Intermediate Skills cooking course at Prue Leiths school which I'm really excited about.  Plan to get to the wall Wednesday and Friday and over the weekend.  At least I'll be able to cook good food for the team in France even if I climb like a lump.

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stg - sort neck out, keep up the basics.

Mon - Pilates for the first time in an attempt to resolve my back and neck issues. And, as it turns out, another chance for someone to tell me my posture's fucked.  Burnt off by a 70 year old. Not sure.

Tue -
AM - Remergence for a couple of hours with Simon.  Unbelievably poor but proved a nice warm up for....
Lunch - base fingerboard session 10. Much better, performance as per session 6.

Wed - HI AeroCap

Thu physio

Fri -
AM - LI AeroCap 4x10mins
Eve - base fb session 11. Very good, slightly better than where I left off before the enforced break. Might be ready to move on to Maxxies but

Sat - swim, as suggested by physio to help with neck, c800m.  Again, unsure how much it will help.

Sun - nowt

Been stretching & foam rolling everyday trying to sort this neck thing out but nothing seems to be helping. It's getting a bit frustrating now, giving yoga a go tomorrow and booked in for a deep tissue massage on Friday. 

Ommmmm.

There's a good book called treat your own neck prob pick it up for a few quid* on amazon. Might help 👍

nai

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cheers, £2.75 off ebay, gotta be worth a shot.

dave

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Shark, surely a ladder to work blind date is more your style?

Blind Date tip: to match the slots some people (me including) find it easier to first bob right hand up onto an inset slopey pebble thing, then go again to RH slot. Doesn't look like much but lifts your chest around the lip so makes it easier.

After matching slots you can go straight up to lip with left foot still where it is on the little lip foothold, if pebble is not working for you.

If you're getting close on BD i'd just sack off trying lime 7a+s like Jericho Road at all until spring now.

36chambers

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STG: zoo york
MTG: zoo york
LTG: zoo york

M:
T: Caley. First session on Zoo York 8A this season. Took a while to remember/figure out the beta, but I have it all sorted now. I think my success rate of doing the three crux moves individually and perfectly was about 40%, which meant I had a 6.4% chance of linking them. Should definitely be able to improve on those odds next time.
W: left shoulder a tad tender.
T:
F:
S: Quick hit at Almscliff. flailed on my warm up. flailed on my 3-4 goes on Slopey Trav 7C.
S: Birthday at Bridestones. Climbed Cleopatra 7A and Jerry's Arete 7B+. Which are two problems I've wanted to get on for a long time. Almost completely sandbagged myself on Jerry's, having forgotten my beta and trying it with a whack sequence for quite a while. Thankfully I realised and managed to climb it fine on perhaps my last possible go :)

6 of my fingertips are shot, so I think it's back to the 50 till the weekend.

shark

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Shark, surely a ladder to work blind date is more your style?

Blind Date tip: to match the slots some people (me including) find it easier to first bob right hand up onto an inset slopey pebble thing, then go again to RH slot. Doesn't look like much but lifts your chest around the lip so makes it easier.

After matching slots you can go straight up to lip with left foot still where it is on the little lip foothold, if pebble is not working for you.

If you're getting close on BD i'd just sack off trying lime 7a+s like Jericho Road at all until spring now.

Thanks Dave - yes I use the "intermediate" pebble which I think is good enough to do a foot move off. Not tall enough keep my foot on the original foothold and reach lip I think - instead I move my left foot in on a sloper on the lip (below a white pebble) which helps to get the right slot

Tried the ladder in last winter but was awkward and I can't find it now anyway (SamT have you still got it?). Definitely going to keep at it - it's only 15minsdrive - but combining that with a crag x hit seems to work well though I suspect that x is now wet for the winter
« Last Edit: December 05, 2016, 09:39:38 am by shark »

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STG: Heal elbow, Zippy's
MTG: More 7B/+s
LTG: 8A

M: Arch, felt strong. Hour on problems, hour on board leaves me feeling worked - in a good way!
T:
W: Arch, board projects are feeling easier...
T:
F:
S: Plantation. Rained a lot over night frustratingly and Zippy's was wet most of the day. Basically did Glass Hour 4th go but couldn't hold the top - stream of water seeping out of a break above. Tried Captain Hook for the first time and got some relatively good beta. Wanted to save something for Zippy's. Eventually it had dried enough to try it. Tweaked beta and sent through to swinging on the final jug, only to dab slightly on a pad  :'( Couldn't repeat, buggered. Definitely will go next time... Ran over to Buckstone in the dark, across a bog to look at the dyno. No idea and knackered so left after not too long.
S: Felt pretty tired, went to Burbage South. Almost did Attitude Inspector, More Cheese Gromit. Left elbow was hurting quite a lot, taping helped a bit. Unproductive day.

Frustrating weekend, elbow really sore overnight and this morning. I think it's linked to me bashing it a month and a half ago. Pain inside the elbow itself, rather than on any obvious tendons  :-\

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There's a good book called treat your own neck prob pick it up for a few quid* on amazon. Might help 👍

I'd agree. Likely to be a lot more helpful than foam rollers etc.

 

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