[StillTryingForTheTop]

I have seen good results doing 1 rep max training (up to 35% body weight added), but this weekend will be week 8 of the training so I am thinking of switching to a Strength Endurance phase for a 4 week block after a rest week next week.

With regards to fingerboard pyramid training, eg http://nicros.com/training/training-articles/fingerboard-pyramid-training/

What are people's thoughts on the holds to use?

Eric Hörst article suggests using the same hold, but I have also seen advice  to start off on the poorest hold you can hang comfortably for 20 full seconds on, and then move to a better hold etc.  So as the hang times get longer the holds get better, and then as you work back down the pyramid the holds worsen as the time shortens?

Thanks

Just in case anyone is interested, or it adds to the discussion

I currently flash v3 to v4 bouldering, have worked up to v6, currently flash 6c/6c+ sport, have got a few 7a and one 7a+

my previous 8 weeks of training looked like

Mon - Boulder (strength)
Tues - Yoga/core
Weds - Redpoint routes (strength endurance)
Thurs - Weight pull ups (strength)
Fri - Core
Sat - Weighted 1RM fingerboarding (strength)
Sun - Core

Plan for next 4 weeks or so

Mon - Boulder (strength)
Tues - Yoga/core
Weds - Redpoint routes (strength endurance)
Thurs - 20 min on the min unweighted pull ups (strength endurance)
Fri - Core
Sat - Fingerboard pyramid training (strength endurance)
Sun - Core

[Probes]

In my opinion your better off keeping the same hang time and increasing/decreasing the load through the set.
Whether that is starting on larger hold and decreasing the size, or adding weight.

I regularly do a basic 5 secs on 5 off x5 with the first hang on a larger edge, the 2, 3 and 4th on a considerably smaller edge and last hang back to the large edge.

The loading (added weight) and the smaller edge size are such that I wouldn't be able to complete 5 hangs on this edge, but with the first and last being somewhat easier it enables me to complete the middle 3! If this makes sense. You could maybe up the load again on the 3rd to make it a true pyramid.
Loadings of 1 rep max would be about 1) 75%   2.3.&4) 90-95% 5) 75%

I do this as an alternate to the normal 5 on 5 and as a slightly different (higher) loading/stimulus it works well, and makes a interesting change.

[StillTryingForTheTop]

Thanks,

As I have just done a strength phase I was looking to come away from added weight so hadn't thought of anything like that,

Sounds like an interesting variation

In my opinion your better off keeping the same hang time and increasing/decreasing the load through the set.
Whether that is starting on larger hold and decreasing the size, or adding weight.

I regularly do a basic 5 secs on 5 off x5 with the first hang on a larger edge, the 2, 3 and 4th on a considerably smaller edge and last hang back to the large edge.

The loading (added weight) and the smaller edge size are such that I wouldn't be able to complete 5 hangs on this edge, but with the first and last being somewhat easier it enables me to complete the middle 3! If this makes sense. You could maybe up the load again on the 3rd to make it a true pyramid.
Loadings of 1 rep max would be about 1) 75%   2.3.&4) 90-95% 5) 75%

I do this as an alternate to the normal 5 on 5 and as a slightly different (higher) loading/stimulus it works well, and makes a interesting change.