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Training advice (Read 3207 times)

ianw

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Training advice
November 10, 2016, 01:07:04 pm
I would like some advice on a few workouts that I could do till i get a formal plan at the beginning of next month.

Background.

I want to be able to progress from my hardest redpoint of 7a+. I have never follwed a training plan and have always just climbed (mostly lead with a bit of bouldering) I plan to train 3-5 days per week at Kendal. I work funny shift so plan on using the auto belays for endurance sessions.

For the past couple of sessions I have been doing 4 x 10metre slightly overhanging routes in one go on the auto belays. Hard Easy, Hard, Easy. Hard route grade 6C. Easy 5+. I am getting super pumped and sometimes failing on the 6c route and trying to recover on the Easy 5+. I am doing 6 sets witn 5-10 mins rest in between sets.

Do you think it would be a good idea to mix this up with other routines on the auto belay. Or continue in this vain till December.


Dexter

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#1 Re: Training advice
November 10, 2016, 01:38:46 pm
You will probably get some more useful information from other people here but I think you may need to establish a few other things first.

1. What sort of > 7a+ do you want to do? Short and hard or longer more endurance? This will alter the most beneficial training you will need.

2. What do you think your weaknesses are? You may want to try to target specific weaknesses such as small holds or powerful moves. What is making you pumped on the 6c? Again this will affect the training you will need.

On more specifics, I'd personally suggest starting with a base of strength from bouldering then transfering that strength onto lead. That being said I'm primarily a boulderer so that's more my preference.

Hope this helps, best of luck.

ianw

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#2 Re: Training advice
November 10, 2016, 02:04:37 pm
Hi Dexter.

Thanks for your reply. Sorry reading back my initial post is rather vague.

1. At the moment I dont have a particular route or grade in mind. I tend to favor routes around the 25m mark and plan on spending time working routes at Malham, kilnsey and Lpt once it gets warmer.

2. What are my weaknesses? Good question! Getting pumped to quickly on hard moves. Not being able to recover on easier holds seems to be the current problem on the belay.
Im guessing i want to build up ? power endurance so that i can redpoint 7a and above routes on the 25m lead wall.

My focus is mainly endurance. I dont want to be burning out too quickly. I guess my question what other thing could i be training on the auto belay that would compliment what i am doing.

Tommy

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#3 Re: Training advice
November 10, 2016, 02:31:23 pm
Probably the most important question would be whether you have "strength to endure" as it's useless constantly focusing on endurance if you're not strong enough. I.e. a V4 boulderer could be literally the fittest guy in the world, but he'd never get up 9a.

Metabolic efficiency is nothing without some level of appropriate strength.


Sasquatch

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#4 Re: Training advice
November 13, 2016, 02:50:29 am
Probably the most important question would be whether you have "strength to endure" as it's useless constantly focusing on endurance if you're not strong enough. I.e. a V4 boulderer could be literally the fittest guy in the world, but he'd never get up 9a.

Metabolic efficiency is nothing without some level of appropriate strength.

I'm going to second this based on:

2. What are my weaknesses? Good question! Getting pumped to quickly on hard moves. Not being able to recover on easier holds seems to be the current problem on the belay.

I found doing a modified 4x4 helpful for this:

1 set  = Boulder problem at just below OS level, rest on wall on good hold in good resting position for 2min, repeat x4

So you are on the wall for about 10min, and you do 4 semi hard boulder problems. 

Focuses on building recovery, doing moderately hard moves while tired, and maintaining focus over a 10min window. 

ianw

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#5 Re: Training advice
November 13, 2016, 10:57:27 am
Will give these a bash.

How long should i be resting in between sets roughly?

Sasquatch

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#6 Re: Training advice
November 14, 2016, 07:16:10 am
I was doing about 10-15 minutes depending on how worked I was. My goal was to be fresh at the start of each one.  They test your boredom threshold a bit, but it's quite easy to modify these to help simulate a bit more of a goal.  i.e. if your goal route is more sustained, then easier boulder problems, but worse rest...

Oldmanmatt

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#7 Re: Training advice
November 15, 2016, 12:35:03 pm
Here you go:



So, that's the training question dealt with; anyone got something for peace in the Mid East?

 

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