[roblaird]

I was wondering about this the other day...

Would you use different fingerboard routines depending on what you were training for?

For example, the 7:3 repeaters if you were training for sport/trad climbing and max hangs if you are training for bouldering.

I know in theory training max hangs should help for endurance too as you're not working as hard on each hold, but I'd be interested in people's opinions/experience.

I've done both, and tend to 'enjoy' the max hangs more, possibly because I get bored with repeaters  but wanted to know what would be best (I'm mostly a trad climber when I'm outside)

[TobyD]

I was wondering about this the other day...

Would you use different fingerboard routines depending on what you were training for?

In a word, yes. It may depend on the nature of the goal in any discipline, as much as the discipline itself. It may also depend more on what your strengths and weaknesses are. My advice is to buy the Anderson's book, and cycle different protocols, as they suggest.

[BicepsMou]

This reply by Tommy from a related thread is probably also applicable to your question:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27343.msg530876.html#msg530876

In my views, it's not so much a question of whether one does more bouldering or lead / trad, but rather to use different protocols at different periods of your training year/cycle.

Or to put it more simply, if you stagnate with one approach, swap to another one. But give each approach the time to do the job (e.g. minimum 3-4 weeks). Changing protocols too frequently will compromise their efficiency.

[roblaird]

Or to put it more simply, if you stagnate with one approach, swap to another one. But give each approach the time to do the job (e.g. minimum 3-4 weeks). Changing protocols too frequently will compromise their efficiency.

That makes sense, and it's what I've been loosely doing so far, but it's good to know that it's the right thing to do