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Power Club 17-23rd October (Read 16358 times)

36chambers

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#25 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 24, 2016, 10:33:17 am
M:
T: Indoors. Different venue to normal. Limit bouldering/casual session.
W: Gym ball core W5 workout
T: Indoors. Working through a selection of hard problems that others have set on the 50 board. It was good to try moves and holds I wouldn't normally. Brilliant session, felt very strong. I also now have a few projects that I'm keen to get back to.
F:
S: Charity event sport climbing indoors as part of a big team with the aim to scale the height of Mount Elbrus (4741 m), we tallied 8000+ m. This was to raise money for mountain rescue and a memorial bench for a friend who recently passed away in a climbing accident. Finished mid afternoon so managed a couple of hours at Almscliff. Sorted the beta for the start of Keelhaul 8A but didn't have enough pads to try the link, so instead I managed to climb The Bulb via the high left heel beta (7C?).
S: Brimham. Had a quick play on The Fonz 8A and despite feeling pretty knackered the moves felt much better than a few months ago and I managed to link through the "crux" a few times. Finally got round to trying the finish, AKA Bigle Pump 6C, which actually might be the hardest single move on the problem! Next visit will be RP time.

I will be well psyched if I can bag another 8A before the year is out.

Feeling bruised and battered today, so may take it easy for a few days. I've just realised I've been trying hard Tues, Thurs, Sat, Sun for at least the last 5 weeks.

Will Hunt

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#26 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 24, 2016, 10:44:46 am
M:
T: Board session. Warm up, then tried a few projects, then did the AnCap thing. 1 rep of an approx. 10 move circuit then 1 min rest x 4. 3 sets of these. Failing at end of third set.
W: Had a lamp sesh on Red Baron Roof. Still felt knackered from the board session the previous day but thought it would be good to go and see how the land lay. First time on it this season. Did the stand a few times to get the measure of that again. Had a couple of goes on the roof and didn't really get anywhere. Anti-connies on the left hand crimp (i.e. every time I put my hand on it, even freshly chalked up with Friction Labs stuff, it left the hold black and condensed). Decided to make the goal of the session to just refamiliarise myself with the first bit of the problem and how exactly to hold the holds. Think I got this sussed for the left hand but perhaps not the right hand on the lip. Didn't manage to stick the cut loose at all but that is probably the anti-connies talking. It's a temperamental move - last year I had a session where I couldn't do it at all and then the next session I could do it static without cutting loose at all. Eventually got bored and went off to finish on The Vault (Jim Purchon 6C+ dyno). Took quite a few goes!
T:
F: Was persuaded to go swimming after work with the missus. Took about 5 minutes to realise why I loathe everything about swimming. It's boring, it's tiring, and I'm shit at it. Got out after half an hour.
S: Ash Head bouldering. Got to the crag about an hour before the others. Did a few problems before the others arrived and then had to go back and repeat them when they arrived. All in all did about 15 problems, mostly in the mid 6s with a few 6C+s. So quite a lot of mileage and just about kept skin intact. Had a go on Pumped up Plastic People which is obviously a good problem but wasn't enjoying the top moves so sacked it off.
S: Installed burglar alarm. At times felt like killing whichever cunt wrote on the online reviews that it took him an hour to install.

Somebody had the audacity on Saturday to call me "the new Shark". Shark's level of commitment is not for me with RBR. If I do it, I do it, if I don't, I don't. As it happens it is the most convenient 7C+ for me to work, being less than 5 minutes from my house, and it's not one that is going to get downgraded.
« Last Edit: October 24, 2016, 10:56:53 am by Will Hunt »

shark

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#27 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 24, 2016, 11:10:31 am
If I do it, I do it, if I don't, I don't.

That's how it starts.

One night you will wake up with a start to find yourself standing by the problem in your dressing gown with a lump hammer in your hand

nai

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#28 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 24, 2016, 11:29:22 am
it is the most convenient 7C+ for me to work and it's not one that is going to get downgraded.

That's the spirit ;)

36chambers

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#29 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 24, 2016, 11:40:00 am
It's a 3 star uber classic which happens to be the most convenient 7C+ for me to work and it's not one that is going to get downgraded.

FTFY.

I was saving the downgrade for after you do it :whistle:

Will Hunt

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#30 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 24, 2016, 11:40:42 am
You're not Jordan.

tomtom

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#31 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 24, 2016, 11:44:59 am
If I do it, I do it, if I don't, I don't.

That's how it starts.

One night you will wake up with a start to find yourself standing by the problem in your dressing gown with a lump hammer in your hand

Thats better than waking up to find yourself pissing on your mother in law...

36chambers

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#32 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 24, 2016, 11:58:06 am
Will, you should open up an account on Stu's Roof btw. It's very similar in style to RBR and so would provide a good stimulus (and the difficulties are more evenly spread across the moves). Furthermore, if you can do one you'll be able to do the other. That's two hard classics for the price of one!

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#33 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 24, 2016, 12:08:10 pm
Keep the faith Shark.



Goals:
Lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June

Body Audit: pretty much clear, touch wood.

Sleep much improved this week, ordered some Melatonin (cheers for the link 3-9) but haven't actually felt the need to start taking it yet, think lower stress levels -> better sleep -> lower stress have hopefully broken the back of it.

M: (~7hrs sleep night before) TCA eve, new yellows (6C-7C) suprisingly good session, think finished off most of the eaiser ones. (~7hrs sleep)
T: TCA eve, yellows, productive session wrapping up some more of the harder things, prob 5 or 6 in low to mid 7's (~6hrs sleep)
W: nothing, out for dinner + booze eve - fairly restrained though (~6.5hrs)
T: TCA eve, yellows again, shortish session, running out of doable things now. prob a bit tired too. Picked up a bit toward the end and ticked off three more, 2 of which were 7B ish I guess.
F: nothing, (get) drive(n) to peak in eve. (~7hrs)
S: Gardoms - South first, repeated G-thang and Suavito, managed China in Your Hands once Si had demonstrated the move enough to convince me it was possible - What an amazing bit of climbing! Made up to have done this one. Trekked over to North, played on things I'd done before, then repeated SotG a few times while working Full Power - really chuffed to managed this in 2 halves, last time I tried it I wrote it off but better nick and a bit of foot beta and it seems like it's a decent possibility. Pub in eve. (~6hrs)
S: Plan was Burbage, but Ro twisted her knee in the morning so we sacked it and drove home. Shame as seemed pretty good nick, but tbh was feeling pretty tired from previous day, lazy sun aft was most welcome. (~7.5hrs)

Weekend cut short, but still really pleased with this week - sleeping much better, feeling pretty strong at the wall, classic JB grit tick, and all the moves on a problem I'd previously written off - got to be happy with that!
69kg

Will Hunt

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#34 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 24, 2016, 12:10:11 pm
If I do it, I do it, if I don't, I don't.

That's how it starts.

One night you will wake up with a start to find yourself standing by the problem in your dressing gown with a lump hammer in your hand

Thats better than waking up to find yourself pissing on your mother in law...


My uncle once woke up to find himself pissing in his mother-in-law's knicker drawer. True story.


Will, you should open up an account on Stu's Roof btw. It's very similar in style to RBR and so would provide a good stimulus (and the difficulties are more evenly spread across the moves). Furthermore, if you can do one you'll be able to do the other. That's two hard classics for the price of one!

I don't know whether to wad you or punter you for this horrific sandbag. Roof problem into shite fickle crimps into the eminently droppable stand that is also Yorkshire's worst 7A. I applaud your audacity.

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#35 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 24, 2016, 12:24:58 pm
STG: Heal finger
MTG: Get solid at 7B/+
LTG: 8A

M: Ab Ripper X and 15 mins HIIT
T: Indoors, bouldering and tried campusing for first time since pulley injury. End of session, close to 1-4-7 again!
W: Squash, beat housemate! Now the house champion!  :2thumbsup:
T: Indoors, fingerboard session as right forearm feeling weak. The upper bit of it on top (when forearm is flat on table) has been tender for a couple of weeks now, anyone know any good stretches?
F:
S: Plantation, spent a lot of time and skin on Zippy's (went through four tips on my right hand). Fell off right at the end with a two-inch move to the jug left to do, so frustrating. Consolation tick of green traverse at end of day. 4th go having injured a pulley on it years ago
S: Curbar, did Trackside, Gorilla Warfare and Bad Lip. Good day, knackered.

filz

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#36 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 24, 2016, 01:14:58 pm
M: fb max hangs
T: work. Nothing
W: board session. warm up then set up a new problem.
T: isometric weigths
F: rest
S: bouldering. Nice day out, good conditions. No progress on the project. Still not in good enough shape.
S: work. Then long training session. Theraband exercises, dumbbell complex (clean, push press, squat). Weigthed pull ups

Good training week.

petejh

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#37 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 24, 2016, 02:59:29 pm
STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), in July October
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Everyone has poor sessions when they're close Shark. Normally right before the send. The last 100m can feel like the hardest part of the marathon etc. etc. Just keep going and turn your brain off.

Supposedly redpointing phase..

M.Knackered after Germany trip
T. Boardroom. Meant t do a campus sesh but too tired and unpsyched. Instead just bouldered around, had a decent sesh considering.
W. Stretching tight hips and glutes for the dropknee move
T. Stretching. Core sesh.
F.
S. Drove to Pilbox Wall t try millenium, pretty greasy in the ming so carried on to the Mill for a board sesh on Mecca reolica. Fueled up geny with £1.45 of unleaded. Had a good warm-up feeling light and strong. Adjusted some holds, the njust as I was getting into the sesh the geny died and the lights went out. Left fuming. Fucking Mill, it's bugs the shit out of me that n.Wales has no good training facility - i.e. one that isn't a half-arsed effort, where you don't pay £70 a year and then still have to also pay for unleaded if you want to have lights and power - e.g. an evening sesh. :shit:
S. Allotement with Luke to give him a catch on his new proj. Turns out it's brilliant, around 7c and top quality climbing and rock. Plenty of good quality new 8s to do there, need to finish bolting mine. Did a warm-up, then worked out moves on Luke's proj. Then got sandbagged trying to onsight a tekkers thin 7b on inobvious gastons and dusty rock! Great venue for the keen new-router and scat aficionado.

Will try to get to Tor for my ass to be handed to me on Wednesday and Saturday if I can get partners.

shark

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#38 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 24, 2016, 03:59:43 pm
Keep the faith Shark.

Everyone has poor sessions when they're close Shark. Normally right before the send. The last 100m can feel like the hardest part of the marathon etc. etc. Just keep going and turn your brain off.

Thanks guys

Booked to go Friday and then next week with Steve. If nothing else I may get belay honours on the hardest route in the Country  8)

petejh

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#39 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 24, 2016, 04:36:24 pm
So hope he does it! Now that's worth instagramming about

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#40 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 24, 2016, 06:09:21 pm
STG: Moonboard 6B+ Get to the top of a moonboard by any means whatsoever.
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

Very busy week at work, not much time to get out.

M: Bike one hour
T:   Beastmaker max hangs: pb on the small campus rung at 10 seconds +15kgs yyfy
W:
T: Beastmaker max hangs
F:
S: Morning: general condition shifting fridges in addition to other less bouldering-specific furniture items.
   Evening: Boulderwelt. More moonboard humiliation, see revised STG above.
S: More furniture shifting.
   40 minutes mobility, core, shoulders.

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#41 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 24, 2016, 10:55:36 pm
m: 2 sets on fingerboard
t: 10 pull ups then 5 pull ups
w: 2 sets on fingerboard
t: massaged some scar tissue on back of hand and when it ballooned up to the size of a golf ball shit myself then took ibuprofen
f: lump rest!
s:more lump rest!
s: 3 sets on fingerboard (final two 50% longer)

feel like I am getting there with everything. Hand swelling up was weird but its feels fine now. First time I'd managed 3 fingerboard sets since I starting back again albeit vastly reduced in terms of what I'm doing. 

submaximal gains

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#42 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 25, 2016, 08:21:04 am
M Foundry, bouldering on the wave
T
W Fingerboarding, got 2/3 of the way through my routine then gave up
T
F The matrix, bouldering about
S went for a whort run
S

STG 7A again
MTG stronger fingers
LTG Shit, Ben's roof

Luke Owens

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#43 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 25, 2016, 10:07:03 am
Smash on Shark!

M: Core/Stretching

T: PlasPower - 2 x 10 min ARC warm-up

Set a couple of new 6C-ish problems on the 25' board, also made a replica of the first crux of my project, feels really similar to the real thing. Did it a few times.

10 min ARC - warm-down

W: Core/Stretching

T: PlasPower - 2 x 10 min ARC warm-Up

Repeated a couple of new problems around 6C/7A.

Almost repeated my old 7A+ which is the only old problem of mine I've struggled on, shift in body position did the trick.

Did proj replica a few times and then did it adding 5 moves on before it, would like to be able to add 14 moves into it to simulate the real thing.

10 mins ARC warm-down

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Back on my main proj, baltic day at the crag with Pete.

First go up, first crux felt a lot easier after doing the replica at the wall. Worked out a better foot sequence for 2nd crux which makes it feel more Font 6C than 7A. 2nd go up had more efficient beta for the start thanks to Pete. Did first crux OK again, 2nd crux still felt hard but forearms were screaming tight by this point.

Plan is to add a few more bolts to the proj to make it more comfortable and enjoyable to climb. Also going to add a direct finish from the starting section which should make a good easier alternative to redpoint first.

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#44 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 27, 2016, 09:31:28 am
Mon. Board struggling so 5 sets of repeaters to finish with 39.25 lbs added. Bike 60.56 miles 3 hrs 32 mins.
Tue. Work.
Wed. Work.
Thu. Bike 18 miles 1 hr 3 mins intervals.
Fri. Lobb mill, Wicken Low and Cows Mouth. Lots of flailing pretty battered at the end.
Sat/ Sun Family stuff.

tomtom

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#45 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 27, 2016, 10:54:07 am
Are you living back in E Yorks now Webbo?

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#46 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 27, 2016, 12:12:49 pm
Middleton on the wolds, been here nearly 2 years.

tomtom

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#47 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 27, 2016, 12:49:05 pm
Middleton on the wolds, been here nearly 2 years.
Oops.. I'm behind the times... prob going to WokCity on Mon or Tues eve if you're about/interested etc..

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#48 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 27, 2016, 01:12:18 pm
Anyone storing some 5/5.5 while we're all sharing our addiction?

I might do actually, have a feeling a bought some a few years ago before breaking bones and forgetting about them. If true they will be totally unused. I'll have a look. How much we talking?

Wood FT

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#49 Re: Power Club 17-23rd October
October 27, 2016, 02:33:02 pm
Anyone storing some 5/5.5 while we're all sharing our addiction?

I might do actually, have a feeling a bought some a few years ago before breaking bones and forgetting about them. If true they will be totally unused. I'll have a look. How much we talking?

You've floated this driftwood of luck towards me before, £50? worth a fettle around in the cellar. I still think you'll need them for the very big and very small #comeback #bolts #hardsportslabs #stillcountsontoprope

 

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