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The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall (Read 80484 times)

Doylo

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The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 06, 2016, 11:07:56 am
Intrigued with how he's going to get on with Dawn Wall.


duncan

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#2 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 18, 2016, 05:58:52 pm
To business: he's done the first three pitches of Dawn Wall.


Photo from Erik Sloan

Sounds like Jorg Verhoeven is also involved, though the source identifies him and Ondra as Austrian. A strong team.

jwi

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#3 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 18, 2016, 06:19:52 pm
Austrians! Whatever, they are all euros to me

Footwork

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#4 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 18, 2016, 06:52:29 pm
To business: he's done the first three pitches of Dawn Wall.

Of course he has. It's the sinew lord, ONDRA

r-man

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#5 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 18, 2016, 07:28:45 pm
For reference.

I really hope there's someone out there pushing a small Adam Ondra fridge magnet up their Dawn Wall poster...

« Last Edit: October 18, 2016, 07:35:08 pm by r-man »

andy popp

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#6 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 18, 2016, 09:06:18 pm
Top of pitch 7 now.

Doylo

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#7 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 18, 2016, 09:27:19 pm
He said he was going to try The Nose and Salathe first. Must have got impatient.

jwi

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#8 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 18, 2016, 09:30:45 pm
Must've looked at the topo and realised that the hardest pitch is only 9a. :whistle:

moose

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#9 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 18, 2016, 09:36:51 pm
Ondra's instagram showed him trying to learn crack technique yesterday on a single pitch 5.10c... obviously a fast learner.....

jwi

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#10 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 18, 2016, 09:39:42 pm
(He onsighted Hlaska in Teplice, the “trying to learn offwidth” thing is bull.)

From black diamond's facebook
Quote from: Adam Ondra
“First day on the big wall in Yosemite, and straight onto the Dawn Wall! Foolishness, lack of respect or boldness? Well, not necessarily any of it. The Dawn Wall just dries up quickly after the huge rain on Sunday. And it went all right. Definitely scary and adventurous. Tiny footholds and insecure climbing, smearing my feet onto glassy footholds of Yosemite granite and all that with poor protection by copperheads, peckers, tiny cams and occasional bolts.

“I ripped some copperheads, took some falls but made it to the top of pitch 7 and fixed our ropes. Leading the pitches with all the fear definitely felt super hard, but once I had the rope from above, the moves felt OK. But grades on the Dawn Wall are definitely not overrated. Great success for today and 5 pitches to go tomorrow to have our ropes fixed under the crux pitches.”

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#11 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 18, 2016, 10:31:47 pm
legend... in transposing his skills... he's probably even still jet lagged...

r-man

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#12 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 19, 2016, 01:34:51 am
(He onsighted Hlaska in Teplice, the “trying to learn offwidth” thing is bull.)

I had to google that...

Quote
Adam enjoying the offwidth struggle of Udolni (VIIb, so theoretically F5c) on the tower of Hlaska in Teplice


jwi

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#13 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 19, 2016, 06:53:09 am
It would be at least 5.11+ in Utah imho



« Last Edit: October 19, 2016, 07:06:16 am by jwi »

Duma

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#14 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 19, 2016, 09:14:32 am
P10 last night according to 8a.poo

dave

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#15 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 19, 2016, 09:21:06 am
which pitches are the nails ones?

Duma

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#16 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 19, 2016, 09:31:00 am
think 13/14 but not checked

Duma

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#17 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 19, 2016, 09:35:36 am
actually google says 14/15

jwi

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#18 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 19, 2016, 09:37:21 am
I too haven't checked, but assuming this topo is correct pitch 14, 15 and 16 are all around 9a unless Verhoeven and Ondra goes for the loop around the dyno. But they boulder 8C, so why would they?

« Last Edit: October 19, 2016, 09:50:51 am by jwi »

duncan

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#19 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 19, 2016, 09:51:57 am


r-man's fridge magnet might slow down a little on pitches 14-15 (the 9a ones). Pitch 15 was the one Jorgeson had the prolonged battle with.

To put this in perspective, the first seven pitches contain as much hard climbing as any other route on El Cap. (one 8b+, two 8a+ pitches).

Nemo

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#20 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 19, 2016, 08:19:45 pm
Maybe I'm missing something, but there doesn't seem to be a lot of clarity anywhere about what is actually going on? 

Is he working then redpointing the pitches as he's going - ie: trying to actually do it on his first attempt?
Or is he just dogging and working it all, without redpointing the pitches - ie: aiming to get it dialled, then come back later for a complete ascent?

If it's the former and he's redpointed the first 10 pitches already then that's pretty outrageous (although perhaps not unexpected).


Anyway...

 :popcorn:


jfdm

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#21 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 19, 2016, 09:35:40 pm
Where's Adam, he's looking at gear in SLC.

andy popp

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#22 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 20, 2016, 12:37:10 am
Maybe I'm missing something, but there doesn't seem to be a lot of clarity anywhere about what is actually going on? 

Is he working then redpointing the pitches as he's going - ie: trying to actually do it on his first attempt?
Or is he just dogging and working it all, without redpointing the pitches - ie: aiming to get it dialled, then come back later for a complete ascent?

If it's the former and he's redpointed the first 10 pitches already then that's pretty outrageous (although perhaps not unexpected).


Anyway...

 :popcorn:

This quote from Black Diamond's FB suggests this is very much a working effort at the moment"

“We started pretty late yesterday and the fact that we are very inexperienced was obvious right from the beginning—I’ve done a lot of jugging up in my life, but only sport climbing and always using one GriGri and one ascender. Bad technique resulted in being super slow and tired after having jugged up the first 7 pitches. It was 3:30 p.m. by that time, so I managed to get to the top of pitch 10 until it got dark.
“It was quite intense, a lot of bold climbing again, especially on pitch 10, which is another horrendous layback with poor protection. A combination of aid climbing, French-freeing and fear got me to the top without ripping out any of my pieces of pro. I didn’t feel like going for more adventure in the dark, so we just fixed our ropes and I tried pitch 7, 8 and 10 (5.14a, .13d and .14a) on toprope with headlamp. These pitches are not only bold, but freaking hard too! Definitely no easy grades for these ones—Tommy and Kevin are tough guys! I tried the moves all over again to get some confidence and we got back to the camp by 12:30 at night. Big day for sure."
–BD Ambassador Adam Ondra, Oct. 19, 2016.

DAVETHOMAS90

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#23 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 20, 2016, 02:45:15 am
This is fantastic stuff  :bounce: Engrossed already!

Good to see him putting that long neck of his to good use  ;D

Let's hope the route puts up something of a fight too.



(The pressure's on to see if I can repeat "Pitch 15", which is the two move problem I completed at Broomgrove while Kevin and Tommy were topping out. Need to sort my twitter feed.  ;)  )


tomtom

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#24 Re: The Ondrawad on Dawn Wall
October 20, 2016, 07:14:20 am
A map for y'all...


 

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