[i_a_coops]

I've recently dipped my toes into going on trips with a specific hard-for-me route goal in mind, instead of doing mileage.

It turns out that I'm really not very good at this - both times I've tried it recently I think I've started trying to redpoint too early, before I'd got the best sequence. I've also struggled with repetitive strain injuries from e.g. using the same heel toe cam over and over, or pulling hard on the same pocket in the same way repeatedly. (Other problems have involved break-up stress and near-drowning experiences, but I feel like those are less likely to be inherent features of project trips!)

What advice do people have for going on a trip and getting something done at or near your limit? Is it a good idea to keep doing a bit of mileage while working the route to death, then doing a mini taper mid trip (say you've got 2 or 3 weeks total)? Or is it better just to maximise time on the moves and maintain freshness by spending all your time on the project?

Some people seem to be really good at this so would like to hear others thoughts!

[remus]

At the risk of over-simplifying, why not wait a little longer before redpointing and mix it up a bit if you feel an injury coming on? Seems like you know whats holding you back, you just need to follow it up!

To be a bit more specific, I think you have a bit of a tendency to try and do too much. e.g. when I was out in Mallorca with you, I think you'd had more days on than me, and I was only out for 8 days (vs your 3 weeks). If you want to climb hard I dont think you're doing yourself any favours going hard on the first week. Maybe something like 1 project day, 1 onsighting day and 1 rest day then rinse and repeat. When you get to proper redpointing time (Id assume last week of the holiday) then id drop it down to one day on one day off.

[i_a_coops]

Agreed - but since some people have done this way more than me, I thought it might be interesting to see what others thought of as key factors on a project trip, in order to pool more data and give me more things to think about next time I try it (for the sake of SCIENCE).

I've still got 2 days left to do the Weatherman and I'm forcing myself to rest today in the name of tactics.... You're right that I should have held myself back a bit before now though!

[Kingy]

It is very difficult to project at your limit on a short duration trip away but it can be done. I think the keys are, as you say, working on getting the best sequence as much as you can before starting redpointing. However, don't wait too long as often the best sequence will only reveal itself to you once you have started stress proofing the moves from the ground. Work the links into and out of the crux which will give you the confidence when trying the moves from the ground and and also inform you how the moves feel when you are pumped or powered out.

Have plenty of rest days and don't try it too much on any given day. You may have enough juice for one more burn but it may waste you for your next session. On very long routes, I can't try them the next day successfully as I will be a little worse than when I'm fresh. Throw in some extra, easier climbing to keep things fresh but not too hard, remember if you are committed to trying a project at your limit then other hard stuff will divert your energies and focus. If you feel you are getting stale then maybe back off a bit - I found that 3 sessions followed by a rest day (i.e one day on, one day off times 3) is about enough before I would have to take 3 days off the route in question to regenerate the specific muscles used (not 3 actually rest days mind, maybe just try some onsighting or 1st redpoint projecting).

The route will always be there so don't stress too much about whether you send or not or become too attached on the outcome so much as enjoying the journey. Videoing the crux sequences and playing them back to compare successive attempts can be useful in seeing e.g. if your body is sagging out on a certain move and what you could do to correct this, maybe a new foot smear or intermediate. Are there any other videos of people trying the route or photographs? Check these out to try and glean as much beta as you can. Good luck!

[ghisino]

lots of good tips already...i'll add some

beta:
use any possible mean to get it. videos, chatting with other climbers etc. Often times a relatively busy route will be easier to redpoint than one you're trying alone, because of this.

finding the right project:
-know the style of route you're good at redpointing quickly!
-don't try just one route, nor too many...have a quick look at a 2-3 candidates before deciding which one you want to redpoint.

taper etc.
this depends on the lenght of the trip!
short trip: get there in the best possible shape from day 1!
if you have 2 weeks or more it can be a good idea to have a shorter than ideal taper pre-trip, and keep tapering during your first days...this would be a mix of cruising really easy routes, beta-checking your projects (no pumpy links!) and allowing yourself to get really pumped once, maybe twice a day...

when to start redpointing, how much to try, etc.
This is the hardest question! i'd say it depends on what satisies you the most???
I've had memorable trips failing repeatedly on the same route, but this is maybe not everyone's taste!!!
a good compromise on longer trips can be to check 3 or 4 routes of increasing difficulty at the start of the trip, redpoint the easiest first to get the ball rolling and decide on which one to move depending on how you feel.