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UKB Power Club Week 344 19th Sept - 25th Sept 2016 (Read 16770 times)

Will Hunt

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I'd be keen to give it (and the SS) a go again too so if you need extra pads/spotters then let me know.

Cheers James. I live 5 mins from the Glen so tend to pop in for quick sessions. If you ever want to go there then drop me a message on here or Facebook and I might be able to join you.

duncan

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.... I probably could do some easy toproping but not yet found the right person available at the right time (I'm thinking indoor wall, quiet as possible, extremely attentive belayer!) Hopefully back up in sheffield for a quick visit in the next week, first time i'll have been back home since June!

Autobelay? Good opportunity to do lots of easy laps and get a great base of aerobic capacity. /Barrows

TobyD

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.... I probably could do some easy toproping but not yet found the right person available at the right time (I'm thinking indoor wall, quiet as possible, extremely attentive belayer!) Hopefully back up in sheffield for a quick visit in the next week, first time i'll have been back home since June!

Autobelay? Good opportunity to do lots of easy laps and get a great base of aerobic capacity. /Barrows

Thanks Duncan, I have been considering it, although I have to say i dislike weighting autobelays at the best of times (pretty irrational I know). Principally, though, i haven't climbed in any form for over three months, and the community, team whatever aspect of it is a big part of what I like about it, so a human would be preferable! I may go with the autobelay though, i'll certainly use one a lot (along with a lot of podcasts i should think!) when i am a bit more into it. PS thanks for the offer of the push up handles, i now have dumbells, and wrist improved enough (full ROM) to do normal push ups anyway. Wrist still gets sore and slightly puffy when i push it, but as long as it recedes with rest i'm not worrying about that too much.

TobyD

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So, been and managed the moves today. Sod larking about with a thumb for the RH, crimp the bollocks off of it, twist RF and stand up into the LH sidepull.  Taking RH gaston leaves me too stretched so use a pinch under the roof to get RF on and stand up.  Felt ok but still more gnarly, sharp and nasty than enjoyable.

Nice Ian. Sounds kind of familiar. I think the very bendy legged have an easier time on this perhaps, more weight on feet i'd guess. I remember not really pulling on the razory wafer thing, more using it for balance? Get stretching?!

nai

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So, been and managed the moves today. Sod larking about with a thumb for the RH, crimp the bollocks off of it, twist RF and stand up into the LH sidepull.  Taking RH gaston leaves me too stretched so use a pinch under the roof to get RF on and stand up.  Felt ok but still more gnarly, sharp and nasty than enjoyable.

Nice Ian. Sounds kind of familiar. I think the very bendy legged have an easier time on this perhaps, more weight on feet i'd guess. I remember not really pulling on the razory wafer thing, more using it for balance? Get stretching?!

Hmmm, can't say the say unfortunately, I was definitely boning it.

I'll be heading to the Foundry quite regularly from November and will be happy to give you a belay.


filz

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M: front levers, assisted mono, fb max hangs
T: board climbing. Repeated some test problems. Tried some harder stuff. Not bad overall
W: isometric weights. Weigthed pull ups. Headstands
T: nothing
F: Visiting Paris. Walked a lot.
S: Wedding party. Eating and drinking a lot
S: Bas Cuvier. Warm up, then met with Fried  :wave: .
Quote from: fried
Su - Planned to meet Filz at Cuvier, I arrived early and climbed as crap as I usually do there. Did some easier stuff, bashed my knuckles in on a orange problem. Lack of network meant we didn't manage to meet as planned, but found each other by luck. I was trying this again https://bleau.info/cuvier/8331.html. We had a couple of goes each, then decided he'd better see Cuvier before it rained, we walked a few feet and it started raining. Chatted under charcuterie for a bit, then went home. Hope he has better luck tomorrow.
Unfortunately monday wasn't much better. I tried to go to Gorge aux Chats but didn't find the place. In the end we went to Bas Cuvier again but with very few time remained for climbing. Tried a couple of blue blocks.

Next time I will come back to Font only for climbing.

TobyD

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I'll be heading to the Foundry quite regularly from November and will be happy to give you a belay.

Nice one Ian and T_B for the offers, much appreciated! Although I will probably (hopefully!) be on autobelays / fingerboards quite a bit, it'd be awesome to actually go climbing with other people after a long layoff. Gyms can be pretty solitary places (although the one I'm going to at the moment is pretty friendly.)

Luke Owens

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New crag and new projects have completely re-newed the psyche this week!

M: AeroPow - Foot-on Campus
1min on - 1:30min jug shake out rest x 8

T: Lunch: Stretching & Antags

Eve: Plas Power bouldering - 10mins ARC Warm up

Repeated some old problems to bench mark strength and power.

20' Board - Did 2 x 7A and a 7A+, couldn't repeat other 7A+ on poor pinch.

40' Board - Repeated 6C+, came up with some new moves.

Snappy power has dimished which was expected from the last couple of months sport climbing. Finger strength and core seem fine, fingers actually feel a bit stronger than they used too.

W: Equipping

T: Equipping

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Equipped another mega new line, took 6 hours of dangling on ropes to get it bolted. Absolute epic but worth it, can't wait to get on it.

 

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