[shark]

11.0-2

M.

T. Malham. Up with Rab, Ste, Ben Heason and visiting wad Said Belhaj Hot and humid when arrived 28 degrees on catwalk. Cooled down later to 19 degrees but still too hot and humidity >60-70%. Forecast had suggested better. Led Taking the Space and Appetite as a bit more shaded on the left. Wasnt expecting to go on the Oak but it cooled enough to try. Go1 Dogged in sections. Despite heat felt solid it. Steve said I was all over it. Go 2 Ground to touching horn. Go 3 had an abortive initial attempt when foot slipped off on third move followed by a better go but had to keep adjusting and came off pulling up on undercut by 3rd bolt. Rested and linked throw to redpoint crux on top traverse. Go 4 Despite sore tips and feeling tired did ground to touching horn. Rested on bolt then  the throw to the top traverse - very short rest then undercut shake to belay. Then had a go on Raindogs but found it smeggy and fell by first bolt and came down. Conclusion: In the conditions I rated that as a good performance. Third go showed need to focus on greater precision in poorish conditions which will also pay dividends in mint conditions. Probably weighed 11.2 so potential to lose 5lbs too. Generally felt a lot more positive whilst recognising that largely untested PE / Aero Power is going to be key. Looking forward to Friday. Similar forecast but with a good breeze coming in from the South.

W.

T.

F. Malham with Rab. Warm but lower humidity, bit of a breeze. 3xcons to warm up. Go 1 Dogged up Rab was a bit conservative with teh belaying and pulled me off throw move at least once. Got it third go. Rested by horn then led horn to top! Great start Go 2 Ground to getting horn in control but somehow not holding it Go 3 not enough rest and felt tired but got to undercut by 3rdshort rested on bolt then nearly throw to top. Go 4 Had a walk round Cove felt tired but did ground to touching horn then rested on bolt then managed throw to top ie overlapping halves! so PE/AeroPower is clearly at reasonable level

S.AM Said stopped over and I took him to Stanage in the morning. Cool, cloudy but a little humid despite the breeze (at least no midges) Very nearly fell off the top of Pebble Arete 5+ .Felt busted. Then failed on the Sloper Traverse, Green Traverse and Steep Traverse. Packed in climbing and guided Said around and took photos. Eve Drank too much     

S.

Encouraging sessions on the Oak so committing to it until it gets wet. Going back Tuesday and Friday. Looks like it will be humid. Rather than going from the ground think I will try for the second bolt to the top link. Also will aim to consolidate weight below 11 stone

[fried]

Cheers Shark

M - 2 sets 5x5 slopers/ reduced slots
T - Rest
W - Quick set of 5x5, had a try at hanging the 35° slopers and suprised myself by doing a 5 sec hang. Never even managed  a second before. Maybe due do me deciding to use chalk in the apartment.
Th - Indoor, lots of volume, need to lose a couple of kilos
F - Nothing
Sa - same
Su - Planned to meet Filz at Cuvier, I arrived early and climbed as crap as I usually do there. Did some easier stuff, bashed my knuckles in on a orange problem. Lack of network meant we didn't manage to meet as planned, but found each other by luck. I was trying this again https://bleau.info/cuvier/8331.html. We had a couple of goes each, then decided he'd better see Cuvier before it rained, we walked a few feet and it started raining. Chatted under charcuterie for a bit, then went home. Hope he has better luck tomorrow.

[Duma]

overlapping halves!

Nice one Simon!

[shark]

overlapping halves!

Nice one Simon!

Thanks. By doing it on the same, and last, tie-in when I was tired was a much more encouraging sign for my endurance than if Id done it on different burns over the course of the day.

Aims for this week are to get through the horn move from the ground and also link second bolt to the top.

[Duma]

Goals:
Lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof?)and 8b by next June

Body Audit: Shoulder still doing ok, started secondment at work this week so maybe it was the desk? Pins and needles down outside of L ring finger fading, but somehow seem to have picked up a tweak on that finger between magic and Monday, while not climbing! Could it have been the prickly ring?? Stopped using it anyway. Also back outside of left knee feeling a bit tweaked, again no idea how, only noticed it on Monday at the wall, no indication in magic that anything was wrong.

M: TCA eve new mothership set so worked up through those, limited session in the end as didn't want to aggravate tweaks mentioned above. Did everything up to low 7's though.
T: Tired, then booze and not much sleep.
W: Very tired, nothing, early night.
T: TCA eve, mothership again, finger and knee improved, but only slightly. Worked Slopey green 7B, as fine on finger and all the hooks are right leg. Did moves ok, but not close to the link. Then did all moves on black 7B+, failed several times to hold the finish from the start though.
F: nothing
S: mtb 90min fun but could still feel knee, then to London for way too much booze, and not nearly enough sleep.
S: nothing, unless I magically gain some energy on this train in which case I might try and squeeze in some core stuff tonight.

Fairly easy week due to combo of new job, other engagements, and injury.

69kg

[Duma]

overlapping halves!

Nice one Simon!

Yeah that def means more.
 I like the idea of the second bolt to top link, would be a good confidence booster, plus trying it should give you the chance to do the throw move successfully with more moves beforehand, as it seems you're very often failing here from the ground, bit it's fine on its own.

(quoted myself instead of you, but you get the idea)

[shark]

overlapping halves!

Nice one Simon!

Yeah that def means more.
 I like the idea of the second bolt to top link, would be a good confidence booster, plus trying it should give you the chance to do the throw move successfully with more moves beforehand, as it seems you're very often failing here from the ground, bit it's fine on its own.

It was a link I did in the Spring so whilst not new both doing and attempting that link should be a better training stimulus to set me up for a successful redpoint. That's the theory.   

[Muenchener]

STG: ...?
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Beastmaker max hangs
T: in bed sick
W: in bed sick
T: Beastmaker max hangs. Doc said no training this week, but I figure fingerboarding is working such a tiny muscle group that the load on the system as a whole is minimal.
F:
S: Glorious weather, but the lad is fired up with enthusiasm for plastic bouldering at the moment and there was a comp on at Boulderwelt, so a team was formed. Did ok, had fun.
S: Mountainbike tour on actual mountains (lift assisted) with M jnr. Great fun

[Dolly]

I'm back in Power Club as we get closer to the lowering of temps


M, Battered after lots of weights, tennis and hours skating on my longboard pumping like a bastard
T The Wave lunchtime. Did 2 more level 3s. Me and TB had the place to ourselves.
W Skating at House skatepark lunchtime. Wet through with sweat. I was literally the only one in the park which was great as no-one could hear me laughing out loud. I fucking love skating.
T Shed with Lagers and Norton. I seemed to do quite a lot. 2 lovely pints of Yorkshire Pride from Acorn Brewery afterwards.
F Ached from Thursday night
S Didn't have long. Played on Free Range Abattoir. Did the top but only did the first move once, but couldn't hold it. Feels like its a long way, but I only need to stick it once
S HIT plus a nice walk with middle daughter collecting conkers

[nai]

goals -  mostly stuff I can't get anywhere near.

Mon - Two Tier, wasn't feeling great. Did Case Adjourned (having fallen on OS 1 metre from belay back in June) then tried System Malfunction but disliked it as much as the last time I tried it a few years back.

Tue - nowt

Wed - nowt

Thu - Two Tier, back on Aberration.
attempt 1 - clips in warming up, skip crux & not happy with the next section, the final hard bit.
attempt 2 - shakily through crux from ground, fell trying to match gaston. Reworked next section into something that feels doable pumped. All of a sudden it felt possible.
Partner fell off his RP and I wasn't ready to go again so did Mad Dogs & Englishmen which was a bit disappointing for a *** classic.  Guess nobody would ever do it if it was only given the one star.
attempt 3 - smooth through to gaston, RH greased off making swap. Led through from the swap, so in two with the most minimal overlap.

Fri - Tor - once up Body Machine, didn't really enjoy it.  Second go still couldn't do moves past horrible sharp holds on lower wall (I've never done these moves in four sessions), got frustrated and sacked it off.  Put clips in OT and had a single RP before the sun came round. Just missed with the long move, straight back on and went to top.

Sat - core & a bit of conditioning

Sun - rest

Odd week, surprisingly unbothered at the moment given this is the period I aim to perform best in.  Bit of a what-if over Aberration though, might have done it Thursday if I hadn't gone for an easy option on Monday. Might.

Quite psyched to get to Wales this weekend but that depends on decent weather and finding partners so probably end up back at Malham/Kilnsey like usual.

[36chambers]

M:
T: Indoors. 50 board, hard moves on small holds, felt strong.
W:
T: Cliff. Had a play on Slopey Traverse 7C and sussed the beta. It didn't feel too bad, which meant the connies must have been pretty good. Didn't actually try to link it.
F:
S: First visit to Woodwell. Very nice place. Managed Screaming Slave 7B and Not Bad Dave 7C, which were bon. Keen to return.
S: Bowderstone. Finally got on and did Inaudible Vaudeville 7B+, it's such a brilliant problem! It's also reassuring that it felt easier than the things I try/do when on the 50 board. If only there were more board style problems on the Yorkshire grit.

[Murph]

Can I join in again? Starting to take bouldering very seriously indeed and want to help keep mojo stoked through what will undoubtedly be harder times.

Goals:
Big goal - Picnic Sarcastic. A holiday romance from July. Must be revisited.
Grit - Piss & G (we go way back), long overdue classics in 7A-7B range.
Lime - Just discovered in past month. Want to find out what I can do on it.
Training - 50kgs for 10s on small BM edge and 1-4-7 campus. Currently 40kgs and the one time I tried, 1-4-6.

M- After figuring out that Blackwell was too wet I had about an hour at Rubicon. After warming up confidently on Millers a few times, felt strong and smooth, I had a handful of goes on Kudos and thought it was in me but time was short so scarpered. Downloaded and memorized beta videos.

T- More time today at Rubicon but felt very weak. Warm up on Millers felt very tired and moves were a lot sketchier than the day before. Arms were drained and had picked up a split tip but somehow managed Kudos Easy on my fourth and last go of the day using a combination of the ways I'd seen videos of. Best and most unlikely tick of my life. Knackered when I got to Raven Tor but ticked Mark Leach though and will probably go back for the footless. No idea how I'll remember all the moves for Weedkiller.

W- rest. Visited minus10 for the first time. Cool place.

T- rest.
F- rest.

S- Beginners Wall at 6:30AM. Ages to warm up. Even the first move of Neil's felt desperately hard. Had a few goes on Love of Money Start 7B but don't really know where it finishes or how to get there. I am shit at working out my own beta. Left with nothing. Family bouldering at Burbage that PM. Sore fingers.

S- rest.

Weight-63.6kgs ave. ok for me. Don't want that number to go up tho.

[TobyD]

Fri - Tor - once up Body Machine, didn't really enjoy it.  Second go still couldn't do moves past horrible sharp holds on lower wall (I've never done these moves in four sessions), got frustrated and sacked it off.  Put clips in OT and had a single RP before the sun came round. Just missed with the long move, straight back on and went to top.

you need beta! its really easy when you have a bit of knowledge, Mr Shark gave me the numbers on this, and i may even have flashed this section IIRC. My memory is shit, (and was shit before smashing my head!) so i can't be of much help. Good luck with Aberration / Wales / BM.

[measles23]

73.2kg

M: torticollis from Sunday still too bad to drive to work until the afternoon..
T: neck better so went to have a look at In Memory of Mr Fox, a cool lowball Churnet 7B, bumping into Dom on his way to crushing and dodgy dancing at Ina's - took a winger off the top move and bounced off the platform down a mini cliff into a jumble of dead trees - bust my big toe up so bailed
W: work
T: case cancelled so surprise gym session - solid 220kg deadlift, no doubts this time YYFY!!! but numpty haven't weighed in for a few days so could be 3xBW but can't be sure - aaah
F: work
S: Fingerboard BM2k small crimps, open crimp max hangs peaking at +30kg x 3sec - I'm sure my BM's getting greasier over time, maybe from ingrained chalk build up; anyone tried washing theirs at all? Getting annoyed at failing through friction not strength so may go back to low-fi screwed on wooden blocks (I'm not sure any of my 6 bought fingerboards have actually been any better!)
6 sets 1 armer progressions - still poor and so hard at this weight :/
S: Awesome walls Stoke - 2 hrs probs up to V6 os and V7 worked; overlapping sections on the black V8 in the cave
3 sets per side campus board 4 to 1s - much better than last time, more or less back to my normal level now
Ring dips 3x3

[TobyD]

STG: climb again, cycle again, stay out of hospital
MTG: 8a by end of June 2017, Sportive summer 2017
LTG: Go back to Yosemite, do at least one really long challenging free route

gym this week is shoulder strength: lat pull downs, assisted pull ups, bench press, military press; dumbells: bicep curls, inclined raise and doing stationary bike, or rowing for cardio.

M: gym AM, met up with a mate over from oz for a 4 mile walk PM
T: 5-6 mile walk AM
W: gym AM, shortish  walk PM
T: 6-7 mile walk
F: gym AM; after which I had some staples pulled out of my head which didn't hurt that much, thankfully.
S: gym AM bike warm up, weights, 2km row; bit of easy core and weights at home PM
S: about 8 mile walking

gym earlier in the week really knocking it out of me, but didn't feel too bad today after the saturday session, hopefully making progress. The weights I'm doing are pretty pitiful though, i've always been weak, but now i am really weak. Not strong enough to start fingerboarding yet, I probably could do some easy toproping but not yet found the right person available at the right time (I'm thinking indoor wall, quiet as possible, extremely attentive belayer!) Hopefully back up in sheffield for a quick visit in the next week, first time i'll have been back home since June!

[Footwork]

Tues - played 5 aside to help make up numbers. Bent down funny (?) and could't bend my left knee without small pain for next two days. No inflammation though and the junior that saw me said it's fine, probably a strained ligament or muscle. I had quite a bad collision 8 years ago where I completely smashed into a pedestrian (tw@t) on my bike causing that knee to swell up and had to take a few days off work. Sadly old injuries are creeping up thick and thin. Goodbye youth

Sun - good amount of physio stretching massaging the works. Long week at work and gf's parents up this weekend so not really had much rest. Next week I'm dropping alcohol and hoping for some mid week circuits

[tomtom]

M: Fly back from the USA. The flight was full of the UK Elite Triathlon team (about 20 odd of them) - no Brownless though...

Tu: Arrive home 9am, big sleep in the afternoon

We: Buuuuurbage South (edge) with Jim. Too warm for grit but hey ho.. there was a decent breeze but it was an easterly, so still over the edge. Still we persevered and lost some skin trying classic arete (hard way) but couldnt get the move around the corner to stick. Moved along to 7 ball, and by the time I'd figured out what to do, ran out of steam.

Th: Mother in law up. Baby stuff

Fr: Rubicon. Not climbing especially well, but decent couple of attempts at Kudos before the sun came onto it. Progress on Bigger Splash Direct - now moved from pulling on and dropping off, to pulling on and lunging for the jug/hold. tickled the edge of it once. A totally bizarre problem, just pulling bastard hard on two opposing sidepulls - whether you stay on is a balance of strength and friction Fingers hurting after weds so brief play on ABS indirect...

Sa: Sister in law up. More baby stuff

Su: Got out late morning - aimed towards Rubicon, but sun was out so figured it would be pointless. Wandered over to X instead. Deserted - and in great condition. Climbing really shit - no power or snap - abject failure on Zippys and Pink Indians. Was about to go home but ended up playing on this SS towards the left hand side that climbed really well. Nice cross through move. No idea what it is - Dave thought Speckled Egg, but I think thats further to the left of this...

[Nibile]

Mon - ab wheel stretch pause x2. Strong. Snatch pulls 5x10. Dumbbell complex x2. Nice litte session. Tired.
Tue - rest.
Wed - forced rest. No time. Abs Doms.
Thu - dumbbell thruster 20x5 1' rests. Hard. Snatch pulls 5x10 1' rests. Cleans 5x10 1' rests. Nice.
Fri - NEW! Dynamic system session. Fantastic. My board is the best board. Overhead walk 30"x5. Mega tired.
Sat - rest.
Sun - rest. Extremely tired.

Especially happy about the new foot on system session. Nothing mindblowing, 1-5 and down with same hand, +8kg. Then 1-6 no downclimbing, +2kg. Tried 2-3 with just one hand on, brilliant failure. Hard.
I am officially concerned about my index fingers. While they can still do their job if perfectly straight, the slightest sideways pression or torsion of the last phalanx send me screaming and cursing. Crimping is impossible, unless taking a minute to carefully place the fingers on the hold. It is something very very serious this time. I have no idea how I did it, I mean specifically. Usual suspects are front two small crimps and index monos one armers.
It was good until it lasted though.

[dave]

Tom, I always understood Speckled Egg to be the thing starting standing there with a good pinchy sidepull undercut of LH, going over to a slot pocket then jug. That would be about the same place as your thing only you're veering slightly left at the top - same basic line though. Being the name of the buttress speckled egg has to be something fairly easy and obvious. The roof problem/s to the left of it are speckled egg indirect I think (there's more problems than names here though).

[nai]

Fri - Tor - once up Body Machine, didn't really enjoy it.  Second go still couldn't do moves past horrible sharp holds on lower wall (I've never done these moves in four sessions), got frustrated and sacked it off.  Put clips in OT and had a single RP before the sun came round. Just missed with the long move, straight back on and went to top.

you need beta! its really easy when you have a bit of knowledge, Mr Shark gave me the numbers on this, and i may even have flashed this section IIRC. My memory is shit, (and was shit before smashing my head!) so i can't be of much help. Good luck with Aberration / Wales / BM.

I have the Shark beta (and beta from three other folk who have something that works for them), I really need to MTFU and just admit I am going to have to try really hard at this point, think I have some mental block about the route not even having started yet so wanting to breeze through those low moves without expending too much energy. 

[tomtom]

Tom, I always understood Speckled Egg to be the thing starting standing there with a good pinchy sidepull undercut of LH, going over to a slot pocket then jug. That would be about the same place as your thing only you're veering slightly left at the top - same basic line though. Being the name of the buttress speckled egg has to be something fairly easy and obvious. The roof problem/s to the left of it are speckled egg indirect I think (there's more problems than names here though).

Cool - thats exactly what I did, except came into the pinchy sidepull undercut from the SS. Nice moves. Probably about 6C in my money ~ obviously been done before etc.. but well worth playing on for those needing something to warm up on etc...

[cheque]

Goodbye youth

  Aren't you about 24?!

[T_B]

I probably could do some easy toproping but not yet found the right person available at the right time (I'm thinking indoor wall, quiet as possible, extremely attentive belayer!)

Lemme know if you want a belay at the Foundry one lunch time Toby? The quietest days seem to be Monday/Tuesday. 

[Wood FT]

Fri - Tor - once up Body Machine, didn't really enjoy it.  Second go still couldn't do moves past horrible sharp holds on lower wall (I've never done these moves in four sessions), got frustrated and sacked it off.  Put clips in OT and had a single RP before the sun came round. Just missed with the long move, straight back on and went to top.

you need beta! its really easy when you have a bit of knowledge, Mr Shark gave me the numbers on this, and i may even have flashed this section IIRC. My memory is shit, (and was shit before smashing my head!) so i can't be of much help. Good luck with Aberration / Wales / BM.

I have the Shark beta (and beta from three other folk who have something that works for them), I really need to MTFU and just admit I am going to have to try really hard at this point, think I have some mental block about the route not even having started yet so wanting to breeze through those low moves without expending too much energy.

I find that bit really hard, not that good and it put me off the route from the floor

[SA Chris]

STG - get better and get some sleep

M - Nowt
T - 10k run. Felt pretty good, good pace.
W - woke up feeling like crap. got steadily worse through day. Decided to sack off any outdoor activity, went to wall for first time since May, in spite of thumb not feeling any better. Actually had a fairly good session; could do most things on vert, 10 degree, but felt weak on anything steeper that wasn't finger jug hauling. Thumb felt no worse.
T - felt worse still went to work, should have stayed in bed
F - felt a bit better, but still not great
S -  still felt shit, so sacked off hill race planned and even sacked off park run. Moped around house and watched telly.
S - feeling a bit better but was left in charge while partner went off to do a triathlon, slowly improving. Walk in evening down to coast to see if any aurora about, nothing going.