Quote from: Andy F V2.0 on September 14, 2016, 06:36:41 pmPersonally I find the grit harder because its generally a conditions dependant luck based scrittle lottery. And I don't climb on it much to get said luck based conditions. The lime is much more conditions reliable, not just sloper friction dependent.my technique is shit.
Personally I find the grit harder because its generally a conditions dependant luck based scrittle lottery. And I don't climb on it much to get said luck based conditions. The lime is much more conditions reliable, not just sloper friction dependent.my technique is shit.
A bigger tail kneeling is pretty nails for 7b
Quote from: Murph on September 14, 2016, 07:04:06 pmOff topic (well sort of but we're here now...)But the first problem on this video - graded 7a/6b - that is or isn't bigger prize? If not what is? Yeah, that's the line I climbed. No way 7a (I did it second go so no way that grade!). I'd personally say 6b probably is a more realistic grade. Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Off topic (well sort of but we're here now...)But the first problem on this video - graded 7a/6b - that is or isn't bigger prize? If not what is?
Does this not exist for the Peak Lime eliminate walls?
When I did it the other day I used the jug hold to the right of the first big break (the hold is not used in that vid but is chalked and just above where the climber's RF is when he matches the end).
Quote from: tim palmer on September 14, 2016, 11:59:48 pmA bigger tail kneeling is pretty nails for 7bNo such problem, that's probably why it's hard.....Guessing you mean bigger splash direct kneeling? Fucking nails, more like hard 7c. i've still not done it despite having done most other stuff on that wall under 7c+
Interestingly, perhaps, but the last problem in that vid is labelled "a bigger tail direct kneeling".
Should be A Bigger Splash Direct. I shouldn't be allowed to make videos, that one is just going to confuse everyone.
I stand by grit and lime being fairly equally graded. If you find one harder easier than the other then you have a weakness to work. strength to exploit.
like what this hero does?
Sort it out "someone".
Where do I sign up? I would love to help.
Personally I find the grit harder because its generally a conditions dependant luck based scrittle lottery. And I don't climb on it much to get said luck based conditions. The lime is much more conditions reliable, not just sloper friction dependent.
Quote from: TobyD on September 14, 2016, 11:25:57 pmQuote from: Andy F V2.0 on September 14, 2016, 06:36:41 pmPersonally I find the grit harder because its generally a conditions dependant luck based scrittle lottery. And I don't climb on it much to get said luck based conditions. The lime is much more conditions reliable, not just sloper friction dependent.my technique is shit.Its not shit. It is the shit
a 360 degree spin on a kneebar
Quote from: Andy F V2.0 on September 14, 2016, 06:36:41 pmPersonally I find the grit harder because its generally a conditions dependant luck based scrittle lottery. And I don't climb on it much to get said luck based conditions. The lime is much more conditions reliable, not just sloper friction dependent.Fun watching you try tho!
Quote from: Andy F V2.0 on September 15, 2016, 06:22:09 amQuote from: TobyD on September 14, 2016, 11:25:57 pmQuote from: Andy F V2.0 on September 14, 2016, 06:36:41 pmPersonally I find the grit harder because its generally a conditions dependant luck based scrittle lottery. And I don't climb on it much to get said luck based conditions. The lime is much more conditions reliable, not just sloper friction dependent.my technique is shit.Its not shit. It is the shit Sorry, yes you have excellent technique for jug ladders.
My experience of coming back from Conies was "that wasn't 7A"