[Andy F V2.0]

Personally  I find the grit harder because its generally a conditions dependant luck based scrittle lottery. And I don't climb on it much to get said luck based conditions. The lime is much more conditions reliable, not just sloper friction dependent.my technique is shit.

Its not shit. It is the shit 

[dave]

A bigger tail kneeling is pretty nails for 7b

No such problem, that's probably why it's hard.....

Guessing you mean bigger splash direct kneeling? Fucking nails, more like hard 7c. i've still not done it despite having done most other stuff on that wall under 7c+

[highrepute]

Off topic (well sort of but we're here now...)

But the first problem on this video - graded 7a/6b - that is or isn't bigger prize? If not what is?

Yeah, that's the line I climbed. No way 7a (I did it second go so no way that grade!).

I'd personally say 6b probably is a more realistic grade.


Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

I've asked around since I first climbed that line, that's my video.

That's what I now call A Bigger Turd and comparing to the 6bs over by the traverses I think it's about 6A.

A Bigger Prize (I think) is just to the left, it uses a hard to spot sharp slanting undercut, just above the big holds, for the right hand to span up to some small crimps high above (a tiny ear can be used as an intermediate) then go the top (i'm not exactly sure which top). When it was first done this made sense as the holds on A Bigger Turd were covered by Ivy. I think it is still just about an independent line. I haven't been able to climb it so may be harder than 7a. Also there's one good crimp to reach off the undercut then a small broken looking thing so problem may have got a bit harder.

[Murph]

When I did it the other day I used the jug hold to the right of the first big break (the hold is not used in that vid but is chalked and just above where the climber's RF is when he matches the end).

I came away from that thinking it was definitely not 7A (think I said something about 6B at the time). But I thought millers sit was 6A too so what do I know? I'm very new to lime.

Interestingly, perhaps, but the last problem in that vid is labelled "a bigger tail direct kneeling".

In contrast, just so it doesn't seem like I've made this thread to spray - my list of impossible grit problems include Jason's mono, the nose, the 6C and 7A eliminates left of trackside, etc etc. 

Big thanks to everyone who's chipped in. Just wish I had learnt to love lime back in April and could have had a much more productive past few months....

[Will Hunt]

Has anybody else used BenF's eliminate bouldering guide for Pisa Wall that's in the new Cheshire Sandstone book? Works really really well and the problems are great. You're never in doubt about what holds are in. Does this not exist for the Peak Lime eliminate walls?

[slackline]

Does this not exist for the Peak Lime eliminate walls?

Minus 10

Rubicon

How accurate they are I've no idea since I rarely boulder at either and don't know the rules.

There is also documentation at http://peakbouldering.info/ but no idea how complete it is.  I guess its those who are bothered about the rules would have to spend the time putting them in otherwise they get written up incorrectly.

I think there might be a comprehensive guidebook to bouldering the the Peak District too, but can't for the life of me remember who publishes it.

[lagerstarfish]

When I did it the other day I used the jug hold to the right of the first big break (the hold is not used in that vid but is chalked and just above where the climber's RF is when he matches the end).

like what this hero does?

[tim palmer]

A bigger tail kneeling is pretty nails for 7b

No such problem, that's probably why it's hard.....

Guessing you mean bigger splash direct kneeling? Fucking nails, more like hard 7c. i've still not done it despite having done most other stuff on that wall under 7c+

Ah yeah, that is it, it is all pretty confusing, bigger this bigger that.  It is all so long ago i did these problems, but to be honest I think the grades on kudos wall are pretty stern/bang on, for instance bigger splash crouching is 7c, tsunami with the sloper match is a hard 8a IMO (fair enough it is a silly eliminate), I think the press crouching would be at least 7c+ anywhere else I have climbed

[highrepute]

Interestingly, perhaps, but the last problem in that vid is labelled "a bigger tail direct kneeling".

Should be A Bigger Splash Direct. I shouldn't be allowed to make videos, that one is just going to confuse everyone.



I stand by grit and lime being fairly equally graded. If you find one harder than the other then you have a weakness to work.

[Murph]

Should be A Bigger Splash Direct. I shouldn't be allowed to make videos, that one is just going to confuse everyone.

You did use the right name in the text below the video 

I stand by grit and lime being fairly equally graded. If you find one harder easier than the other then you have a weakness to work. strength to exploit.

[Murph]

like what this hero does?

Yeah man. I mean, why not? Even curiouser what the *true* line of Prize looks like. Wonder if someone could film it if and when conditions allow.

And if someone could go to the effort of taking pictures of all the kudos problems. It seems guides refrain from taking pictures left of millers or right of splash for some reason I don't quite get.

[SA Chris]

Sort it out "someone".

[Murph]

Sort it out "someone".

I'm happy to take the pictures, just wouldn't know what to write on them. Apologies if that sounded like I thought they happen by magic.

Where do I sign up? I would love to help.

[lagerstarfish]

Where do I sign up? I would love to help.

http://peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/77-rubicon#.V9p-K5grKhc

get posting

 

[andy_e]

Well said lagers!

[peewee]

Personally  I find the grit harder because its generally a conditions dependant luck based scrittle lottery. And I don't climb on it much to get said luck based conditions. The lime is much more conditions reliable, not just sloper friction dependent.

Fun watching you try tho!

[JamieG]

To be honest I think crag to crag variation is far higher than grit to lime variation. Intra vs inter variation.

[TobyD]

Personally  I find the grit harder because its generally a conditions dependant luck based scrittle lottery. And I don't climb on it much to get said luck based conditions. The lime is much more conditions reliable, not just sloper friction dependent.my technique is shit.

Its not shit. It is the shit 

Sorry, yes you have excellent technique for jug ladders. 

[i_a_coops]

FWIW I don't think grit is necessarily more technical, it's just a different type of technique. I think on really steep limestone (think Parisella's or Biblins), if anything there is more 'macro' technique going on than on any grit boulder I've every seen - my current limsteone project involves a 360 degree spin on a kneebar, footlocks, drop knees, heel-toe cams, bicycles, invert-to-double-toehooks, etc. - which is a broader range of techniques than one might find on a typical grit problem.

Grit is more about 'micro' technique, i.e. tiny subtleties of body positioning as you put your foot on a smear and stand up on it can make the difference between the smear sticking and you falling off.

[lagerstarfish]

a 360 degree spin on a kneebar

you auditioning for Kranko's circus?

[i_a_coops]

Recently, someone I'd never met before told me I was 'the Alex Barrows of punter climbing'.

Not sure how I feel about that!

[Andy F V2.0]

Personally  I find the grit harder because its generally a conditions dependant luck based scrittle lottery. And I don't climb on it much to get said luck based conditions. The lime is much more conditions reliable, not just sloper friction dependent.

Fun watching you try tho!

One time. It was one bloody off day. Admittedly a very very off day at a crag I'd never been to before. And never will again 

[Andy F V2.0]

Personally  I find the grit harder because its generally a conditions dependant luck based scrittle lottery. And I don't climb on it much to get said luck based conditions. The lime is much more conditions reliable, not just sloper friction dependent.my technique is shit.

Its not shit. It is the shit 

Sorry, yes you have excellent technique for jug ladders. 

I did once pull on a smallish hold 

[Andy B]

Regarding A Bigger Prize, what James said is correct. When it was first done ivy still covered all the big holds on the right. It went up to the juggy break then got a diagonal undercut crimp, just above the break, for the right handthen up to a slopey dish and small crimp in the base of the high scoop, then up to the thin break above. Shortly after it was first done a couple of bigger crimps were revealed to the right, then over time, even bigger holds further right have been uncovered.

I have no idea if the original problem is still much of a line, but, if it's tight, my opinion is that it's better to have a logical easier problem in the space than a harder eliminate.

[Bonjoy]

My experience of coming back from Conies was "that wasn't 7A"

I think I made this point when I wrote the place up and certainly since - we cleaned and climbed most of the main lines here in one day, the grades were throw away first guesses and apt to come down. And when I say cleaned, I mean  we scraped a bit of gunk off the most obvious footers. Not to mention Ned having no clear idea what grade anything below 7b is as they're all just different shades of piss for him. Haven't been back since to see/feel how it is now.
Can't speak for the fillers that went up afterwards but I wouldn't be surprised if some would be graded in line with the rest of the crag, as that's what you tend to do - benchmark against neighbouring problems.
Enjoy looking this gift-horse in the mouth while it lasts, i.e. until the next decent bouldering guide comes out.