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Beyond 50 degrees: bad idea? (Read 11869 times)

dave

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#50 Re: Beyond 50 degrees: bad idea?
September 18, 2016, 12:23:20 pm
Climbing is a movement-based activity. the traditional approach to training concentrates on isolating static strength, but I often wonder if this is missing half the picture. There are strengths involved in snatching crap holds which I don't think are well trained (isolated) by fingerboarding or campussing on comfy rungs. Sure, you can get super strong and completely avoid dynamic slapping (eg. Paxti) but seeing this as the only route to success is possibly a bit blinkered (eg. Ondra).

Dave T, you are talking about accuracy, but there's much more to it than that. grabbing a hold fast means you always hit it slightly differently. having the finger strength to work in the less than perfect finger position and then readjust and/or power out of it is very different to hanging a carefully placed hold on a fingerboard.

Exactly.

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#51 Re: Beyond 50 degrees: bad idea?
September 18, 2016, 01:10:17 pm
Yes, I  appreciate those points, but I think movement related issues can be worked in their own way too.

Gains and merits will always be relative.

It's very easy to say "work your weaknesses", but it's not always apparent what they really are. They're not intrinsic, absolute, or discrete. The relevant weakness is the one that helps achieve the gain you're looking for, and it's very often not at the point where you're failing.

There's often substantial risk involved in estimating where the best investment needs to be made. In contrast, it can feel comforting to focus on where you're failing, but that can be defensive and impact negatively in the long run - the trying not to fail approach.

Of course, this thread is about considering the relative merits of the different strengths/weaknesses targeted at 50+ vs say 40. That's why the thread is actually quite interesting, isn't it.

I think it's misleading to try to argue for one focus over an other, as though one is ultimately right, the other wrong, but I think it's relevant to differentiate between skills and strengths. They're matters of interpretation too, but I think it's important to be wary of which lens we're looking through.

tomtom

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#52 Re: Beyond 50 degrees: bad idea?
September 19, 2016, 01:02:45 pm
If you're not having to slap for it, then you need to try a harder problem :)

 

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