UKBouldering.com

Gym advice (Read 3090 times)

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3827
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
Gym advice
September 10, 2016, 09:16:31 am
I'm using a gym as preliminary rehab, having broken a wrist and more importantly my head over 2 months ago. Currently doing a pretty basic shoulder conditioning with dumbbells, bench press, lat pulldowns, military press etc. Mostly going on 3 sets of 5-10 reps to almost fail on the final set. Any opinions/ suggestions? Also doing light cardio stuff. I can't effectively do full exertion low reps yet, as it may do unpleasant things to the wound on my head which is still healing. Any ideas much appreciated! Cheers T

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5377
  • Karma: +242/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
#1 Re: Gym advice
September 10, 2016, 10:17:33 am
Turkish get ups are a great overall exercise IMO.  Great for shoulders but hit core pretty effectively too.



I use a lighter weight at a faster pace. Eg 3 sets of 6x 7kg is fairly manageable

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3827
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
#2 Re: Gym advice
September 10, 2016, 01:58:33 pm
Cheers that looks potentially useful, though possibly not great for my head, I should have mentioned it doesn't do well with anything involving lots of bending and definitely not anything inverted. Ill give it a try and see what happens.

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9626
  • Karma: +264/-4
#3 Re: Gym advice
September 10, 2016, 05:24:36 pm
Seated wrist curls? I found preacher benches good for these.

Understandably it sounds like playing it safe is the way to go. How are you with floor exercises? There are a million variations on the press up?

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3827
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
#4 Re: Gym advice
September 11, 2016, 05:41:46 pm
Seated wrist curls? I found preacher benches good for these.

Understandably it sounds like playing it safe is the way to go. How are you with floor exercises? There are a million variations on the press up?
Thanks Paul, have been doing some wrist curls with light dumbbells. I broke my radial styloid so press ups are a bit painful still- unless I get some of those dip / press up handles. Planks on elbows are OK, and supine leg raises. Sit ups do odd things to my head... Running feels pretty odd too, fortunately cycling and using a rowing machine are fine. I don't think these will help climbing at all, but I like cycling outside, and rowing machine is effective way of venting frustration!
Anything novel with dumbbells or any other resistance work with a bar or fixed machines that you've found useful? Been using an assisted pull up machine to do sets, but still depressingly far from even one pull up unassisted!

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2952
  • Karma: +332/-2
#5 Re: Gym advice
September 11, 2016, 05:58:05 pm
Hi Toby, I have some push-up handle things from when I had a wrist problem. I can post to Devon if you're interested. Alternatively you can just use dumbells.

I'm guessing you need to avoid raising intercranial pressure excessively which means avoiding heads-down posture or raising intraabdominal pressure too much (which would rule out sit-ups and similar at the moment).

Some other things to try:

Side and front planks. Consider the Stevie Haston back plank (heels and shoulders on separate chairs).

Dips, foot-on initially.

Forward lean rows - great for posterior rotator cuff and really helpful for my shoulder. Keep your head up, obviously.

Rock-rings/ portable fingerboard instead of bar on the lat. pull down machine.

Single-leg squats 'pistols'.

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3827
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
#6 Re: Gym advice
September 19, 2016, 06:28:36 pm
Hi Toby, I have some push-up handle things from when I had a wrist problem. I can post to Devon if you're interested. Alternatively you can just use dumbells.

I'll probably get some dumbells anyway, cheers though! Nice advice on the other stuff too. Im currently unable to do 1 pull up, upsetting eh... any thoughts on progression? Been combining lat pulldown with assisted pull up machine at the gym,but I wonder if negatives would be more effective? I suspect that variety may be the best way.

Oldmanmatt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • At this rate, I probably won’t last the week.
  • Posts: 7097
  • Karma: +368/-17
  • Largely broken. Obsolete spares and scrap only.
    • The Boulder Bunker climbing centre
#7 Re: Gym advice
September 19, 2016, 07:04:33 pm
Hi Toby, I have some push-up handle things from when I had a wrist problem. I can post to Devon if you're interested. Alternatively you can just use dumbells.

I'll probably get some dumbells anyway, cheers though! Nice advice on the other stuff too. Im currently unable to do 1 pull up, upsetting eh... any thoughts on progression? Been combining lat pulldown with assisted pull up machine at the gym,but I wonder if negatives would be more effective? I suspect that variety may be the best way.

Negatives will give the best strength gains, but watch that Valsalva effect! It's very easy to hold your breath when pushing yourself and I can't imagine that would be too good right now.




All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. Looking at you, here, Dense.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal