[twoshoes]

I've had constant tweaked fingers this year. They're never bad, but they stop me climbing and don't heal for ages and ages. Part (all) of the problem is that my job involves a lot of physical work with my hands. I've working with my finger heavily taped, and retape throughout the day, but it only takes one moment of carelessness and I've tweaked it again. And there's a lot of potential for moments of carelessness in an eight-hour day. Not to mention the fact that, with one finger out of action, the others are having to pick up the strain and often feel a bit creaky too.

My last (relatively minor) finger injury took the best part of 8 months to clear up and that was with a lot of rest from climbing.

If you've got any suggestions on avoiding re-injury at work, I'd love to hear them! I'm resting from climbing and am toying with the idea of completely splinting the finger for a week or two, but that's going to make work awkward.

Ta.

[SA Chris]

What do you do for work?

I'd have a look at firstly grip technique and then general climbing technique if you are injuring fingers that often. Sounds like you are definitely overtraining or haven't got a great rehab regime.

[twoshoes]

Sorry, should have been clearer. I've had two injuries, they just take forever to heal as i constantly reinjure then at work. (I work with stone so I'm constantly picking heavy and awkwardly shaped things up.) I've obviously got to be a lot more careful - it's just pretty hard to do so all day long. Hence wondering about ideas. I know people climb through injuries, so hopefully someone has some!

(fair point about over training and rehab.  I'm pretty careful how and when I climb and don't really train as I'd be too tired to ever climb if I did. As for rehab, it feels like I can't get started on it, so yeah, it's not great. )

[finbarrr]

i am a bicycle messenger (gripping steer and brake) half the time, and do woodworking /furniture making stuff the rest of the time.
when i have an injury, (like now, pulley tweak) it can only heal when i wear a splint.
i haver taken to cutting a piece of metal pipe to size so it sits over the finger, from the MCP to the DIP with some tape over the ends so it doesn't hurt the skin.
wear it on the bike, lifting things and even when climbing the first few weeks ( or months, depending on the injury)

[finbarrr]

ps  the tube is so short it just allows me to bend the PIP joint (helping it stay in place).
and the tube is not tight, fingers swell up.. the tape at the bottom is the narrowest part, also helping it not to slip off

[twoshoes]

Ta. I've been thinking that might be my next step.

[mrconners]

Open hand.
Forget crimp.

[duncan]

Part (all) of the problem is that my job involves a lot of physical work with my hands. I've working with my finger heavily taped, and retape throughout the day, but it only takes one moment of carelessness and I've tweaked it again. And there's a lot of potential for moments of carelessness in an eight-hour day.

In the medium term, either modify the work or modify the protection you give your finger(s) at work. I have no idea if the former is possible. For the latter a hand therapist (occupational therapist) may be able to help with a bespoke splint. Earlier this year I ruptured a collateral MCPJ ligament. I carved a splint from a half-pipe of bamboo which held the joint straight and protected it pretty well for moderate climbing. Something like this might help, if only to take the finger out of action whilst you work.

In the long term you need to get to the bottom of why you're regularly tweaking your fingers. There may be alterations to your training or climbing style that could help. Ask climbing partners, read Dave Macleod's injury book, consult a climbing physiotherapists or a very clued-up coach. A combination of hard physical work 8 hours a day and climbing training may simply be too much for your fingers, we're not all Dave Birkett, in which case you have some choices to make. Broadly speaking, telling others to do the hard work rather than doing it yourself is a more sustainable long-term option in hard physical jobs.