When you are cursing condensation and seepage down in one of the Dales just think that you could have gone to High Tor instead.
High Tor
never condenses or seeps. It catches the breeze and there are a selection of routes across the grades. As it faces West the best time for cooler conditions on sunny days are mornings and evenings. If having a full day when it is sunny then afternoon shade across the valley at Lorry Park Quarry or Long Tor Quarry can be found.
The most reliable way to get there from Sheffield is to take the Chesterfield to Matlock Road A632 which takes you past eatswood. For most this will be accessed via the A61 and Chesterfield ring road though a labyrinthine route via Gardoms and Eastmoor is possible though you need Bonjoy as a navigator.
From the edge of Sheffield it will take about 30 mins to get to Starkholmes village (park diplomatically please) at the top of the crag. A 5 minute walk up a tarmac road will get you almost to the summit where you can use a tree with a chain (The Castellan tree) for an airy 50m abseil if going straight for the main event. If seeking easier warm ups then come off the tamac earlier and skirt left following paths to contour around to the right so you end up at the Right Wing. This has been bolted extensively by Gary Gibson to give
eleven routes from 6a-7a+ which are useful as warm ups. The best warm up is Endgame 6c+.
Further details on UKC logbook:
www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=119Best Sport RoutesHigh Torqueing 7c+ * (Left Wing)
Mixed opinions on the quality of this one. An obvious hanging groove with bouldery skin shredding moves leads to easier climbing on immaculate rock.
Wil E Coyote 7c+ (Left Wing) **
A wall of shallow pockets with an undercut mono move then a bulgy 7b overhanging section to finish
The following are located in the Castellan Cave. This stays in the shade for much longer than the main face. There is a single chunky bolt belay on the second ledge system by a groove. This can be accessed from above by bouncing in on the Castellan abseil. You can also access from the bottom by a 4b scramble up the first pitch of Skylight. Next to it there is also a 6b bolted Approach Pitch which I’ve not done so can’t comment. Limelight 8b (8b+ maybe?) **
The overhang left of Castellan was freed by Jon Clark and has only had one repeat from Ethan. Meant to have a long move but cant be impossibly as Ethan isn’t gigantic
Pump out the Squealies 7b+ **
Just left of Limelight. A bouldery perplexing start leads to a funky groove.
Light and Shade 7A+ *
The pocketed rib and wall left again. Not done this
Traddy Sport !Three outstanding routes fall into the category of having short sections which require trad gear but are mainly protected by in situ gear
Mad Max 7b+ *** (Left Wing)
Outstanding wall climb from the Lee Brothers (no relation) and reequipped by Graham Hoey a few years ago. Some friends in breaks then a couple of small wires (one currently in situ) leads to some large gear on the left in the groove of M1. Quest back right and it’s a clip up all the way
Roadrunner 7b ***(Left Wing)
Big Ron tick. A few cams are required on the traverse then a medium nut above the bootlace thread then it’s a clip up though the pegs on the A6 headwall are old but it is possible but less satisfying to bail out at the High Torqueing belay. Also when you move past the bootlace thread then move left to stand on the High Torqueing flake. Going direct then left is much harder.
Big Cigar 7c **
My recent addition. Requires doing the well protected start of Castellan and some ropework trickery all explained
here In need of rebolting:The Passion Wagon 7b *
On the right side of the main face.
V2 7a ** (Left Wing)
Mainly bolt protected but I suspect the bolts need replacing.
