[tc]

Possibly one for Chris, this.
I'm going to be in and around Cullen in a couple of weeks. Any tops tips? I've been wanting to boulder on the Moray coast since it split from Denmark but the only info I can find is in the Stone Country guide, which I guess is a bit out of date now.
Cheers.

[tc]

I found the info on the other channel, and a couple of videos of Primrose Bay but was after a couple of personal recommendations. Just in case you think I'm being lazy. Which I am.

[andy_e]

Might be worth dropping Hamfunk, GazM or richieb a pm...

[GazM]

Hi TC, I'm not really a local to the Moray coast but have spent a bit of time there over the years.  If you get it in good nick, places like Cummingston and Primrose Bay are brilliant, but coastal conditions can be a bit temperamental. Best connies seem to be dropping temps, a stiff northerly and low tide at send o'clock. Quite a few of the problems are arbitrary jump-off-at-jugs rather than satisfying top-outs, but good none the less. In general I think there's more at Cummingston but the best problem I've done on the coast is Amateur Acrobatics, a cool 7A+ prow at Primrose Bay.

Not sure what kind of grades you're after, but at Cummy some of the best stuff is in and around the big cave: Jerker 6A, Fingerlicker traverse 7A, Gorilla 7A, Match and Snatch 7A+ (which I've still not done...). Lots in the 6s.

[tc]

Thanks Gaz.

[SA Chris]

Gaz has it regarding Cummingston and Primrose Bay. I've not been to Primrose Bay, but in good conditions it's apparently got some great stuff.

There is also the Cullen Caves right on your doorstep.

https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Cullen_Caves

I've never been, but looks like it might be worth a look.

If you are in the area there is a bit of nice rock on the beach at Banff too; if you drive past the harbour and west along thew front to parking area, there is an obvious outcrop on the right as you pass a small wooden shed on the left. At low tide there is a small inlet with a vertical highball wall on the right, and smoother slightly snappy rock on the left. round to the left is another wall which faces west with a few nice features on it, the best probably being the fingery edges diagonally crossing the face on the left. I've climbed direct to this diagonal, but bottled the dyno to the top, which is still a project AFAIK. The landing may be pebbles or a rockpool, depending what the waves have done. It's a diversion if you are there, but not worth travelling to.

If you fancy a bit of solo pottering, Redhythe near Portsoy has lots of easy routes on a headland , with a fun easy DWS traverse of the main face, which is excellent fun.

Logie Head is a great spot too, if you are happy doing some soloing, and a nice walk from Cullen. The rock on the Star Zone is especially good, but there may be nesting gulls at the top. If you are feeling brave, the routes round on the very tip of the headland round to the right of the Star Zone are DWSable.

The ice cream shop in Portsoy is highly recommended, the one in Cullen is good too, but not as good. And you need to try Cullen Skink while you are there.   

[tc]

Thanks again guys. Good knowledge. Do either of you know if the "Blue Fish Prow Project" at Primrose Bay is still a project? It would be nice to come home with a holiday souvenir or two.

[SA Chris]

If anyone knows, Hamfunk should, but as he's now Edinburgh based, and not in proper Scotland anymore I expect he's on a Bank Holiday like England gets. If he doesn't answer soon ping him a PM.

[GazM]

Yeah, sorry TC, I'm not up to speed with developments over there.  Some of the stuff being done and written up at Primrose was by Rob Thomas and Stu Goodwin.  They have some videos here:

and here:

If you google Inverness Bouldering Facebook then Rob's page will come up and you can probably get more info from him.  I'm not an FB so can't send you a link I'm afraid.

[tc]

Lovely place, thanks for the tips. Great weather and friendly tides, so managed to get a whole bunch of stuff done at Cummingston and Primrose Bay.