[b3n99]

Having recently being inspired by the Olympic gymnastics and the unbelievable control and strength of some of the athletes, I've been doing some research into the training methods they use. It strikes me that this sort of training (bodyweight training with incrementally more difficult static holds, adjusted by changes in position rather than adding weight the majority of the time) could make an incredible base for hard bouldering. Does anyone have any experience with this and how the gains transfer?

For a little more information here, I am planning on incorporating an hour long gymnastic bodyweight strength session into my training twice a week. This will include progressions of exercises that build towards four main exercises: front lever, straddle planche, ring muscle up and press handstand. These progressions are from the information in Christopher Sommer's 'Building the Gymnastic Body' book, which is ace!

[Krank]

the books outdated now, get the foundation courses, they're available here https://www.gymnasticbodies.com/gb-courses/foundation-series/, they're excellent, much more comprehensive than the book.

these 2 podcasts are with coach summer, worth a listen if your interested in his training methods

http://fourhourworkweek.com/2016/05/09/the-secrets-of-gymnastic-strength-training/

http://fourhourworkweek.com/2016/08/17/the-secrets-of-gymnastic-strength-training-part-two/

[mrjonathanr]

I posted Chris Sommer's podcast in the podcast thread, persevere for 15,mins, it's interesting.

Have you bought the online courses John? What did you think, have you followed a proper regime?

[Luke Owens]

I know a climber who's an ex-gymnast, core of steel on him.

Must translate a lot for the core aspect.

[Krank]

Have you bought the online courses John? What did you think, have you followed a proper regime?

hello mate,

i have got foundation 1 and I am currently working through it. i do it 3 days a week, its excellent, I defo recommend it. It may not be for everyone as you can only advance through the elements if you can demonstrate mastery in both strength and mobilty. most peoples mobility is horrendous by gymnastic standards so it may well be the mobility that holds you up.

but if your are interested in bulletproofing yourself this is by far the best thing i have ever come across. there is a list of strength and mobility exercises, videos to show and explain how to correctly do each exercise, an online training diary and there is access to the private forum where you can upload videos of your progressions that will be assessed by gymnastic coaches.

there is also a 30 day money back thing so there nothing to lose.

highly recommened

[SA Chris]

Glorified yoga

[b3n99]

I've listened to the podcasts and thought they were great (highly recommend all of the Tim Ferris stuff) and then have dived into a load of the literature (mainly by Sommer) on the subject and really think it would make an ideal base for hard climbing.

Krank, I like the look of the programs but I'm a tight b*****d so wasn't willing to fork out the hefty sum!

For anybody who is interested I've put together a little document to outline a gymnastic strength routine (will be doing it twice a week) as well as some tests to calibrate the whole thing. Its pretty much the parts of Sommer's books that I felt were most applicable to climbing whilst keeping it as well rounded as possible to build general body strength and health. Drop me a PM if anyone would like a look (or let me know an easy way I can upload it to make public viewing)

[mrjonathanr]

Hi John, interesting, you'll have to come up to the Chapel to show off your new found skills 

B3n, that would be interesting to see. Why don't you put it on a free cloud? eg  https://drive.google.com/drive or https://onedrive.live.com/about/en-uk/

pm me for links

   

[b3n99]

Hopefully people should be able to access this, please let me know if you can't or if you can see any other documents on that drive, thanks!!

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7y7UIwbVq_yb1lNaHFLNGpVUG8

[Oldmanmatt]

the books outdated now, get the foundation courses, they're available here https://www.gymnasticbodies.com/gb-courses/foundation-series/, they're excellent, much more comprehensive than the book.

these 2 podcasts are with coach summer, worth a listen if your interested in his training methods

http://fourhourworkweek.com/2016/05/09/the-secrets-of-gymnastic-strength-training/

http://fourhourworkweek.com/2016/08/17/the-secrets-of-gymnastic-strength-training-part-two/

HOW MUCH?!

@#%*~{}€€€€¥ hell!


All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. Looking at you, here, Dense. 

[jwi]

I know a climber who started training for the rings when he was over thirty. He came second in the national championships for veterans this year. Did nothing for his climbing though

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

[ducko]

i do lots of body weight (calisthenics) style training and have done for two years or so now, it seems to help to a certain extent but in my experience ive put on quiet a lot of muscle weight doing it and i dont think the training has made a massive difference to my climbing but has perhaps helped avoid injury (excluding fingers of course)
depending on your weight / goals etc id say once a week is enough or maybe split it up, most hammers the core, arms and shoulders so maybe split it into shorter sessions.
im currently weighing in at 75kg at 5,8ft so im reducing my body weight training to one arm/shoulders session a week and one/two core sessions to hopefully loose a few kg's.   

[mctrials23]

I did some of this for a while and it does tend to put on quite a lot of pointless muscle. Didn't feel like it really made any difference to my climbing.