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Tommy's Top Training tips (Read 30560 times)

shark

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Tommy's Top Training tips
August 22, 2016, 09:29:21 pm
Tom Randall is kindly writing a series of training articles which I will add to this thread as they get published

First one is: I'm failing on my route! What is happening?

tomtom

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#1 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 22, 2016, 10:28:51 pm
Climb faster :p

Oldmanmatt

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#2 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 23, 2016, 07:51:05 pm
Can you not change that to "Twop" ?



All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. Looking at you, here, Dense.

shark

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tomtom

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#4 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 23, 2016, 08:48:51 pm
That sounds rather like a caption from a photo story in a 80's teen magazine.

shark

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#5 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 23, 2016, 09:23:24 pm
That sounds rather like a caption from a photo story in a 80's teen magazine.


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#6 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 23, 2016, 09:38:20 pm
One of my pals at University was roped in to be in one of those photo stories (not Jackie). He earned endless mileage out of it...

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#7 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 23, 2016, 09:39:47 pm
Shark,
can you email/text/alert me when Tommy publishes the "one secret rule to getting stronger, fitter and lighter without trying" tip?

thanks

shark

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#8 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 23, 2016, 10:12:31 pm
Shark,
can you email/text/alert me when Tommy publishes the "one secret rule to getting stronger, fitter and lighter without trying" tip?

thanks

Tommy is putting together a paper for this even as we speak. The working title is: "The Unified Field Theory"

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#9 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 24, 2016, 06:42:05 am
Shark,
can you email/text/alert me when Tommy publishes the "one secret rule to getting stronger, fitter and lighter without trying" tip?

thanks

Tommy is putting together a paper for this even as we speak. The working title is: "The Unified Field Theory"

is an early draft?

[/img]


marcpontin

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#10 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 24, 2016, 07:31:20 am
Interesting articles. I find the Usain Bolt analogy misleading though. Running has little to do with 'strength' (I am sure all professional sprinters can leg press roughly similar). The ability to run very quickly is dependant on other variables. Medium or long distance running is therefore highly dependant on energy system conditioning and responds little to the 'get stronger' approach. The only professional competitive sport I can think of that has similar profiles to climbing would be something like worlds strongest man, where for instance guys with a measurable 1RM in deadlift attempt to crank out as many reps as they can deadlifting a car, which is a measurable % of their 1RM.
The interesting question for Tommy's approach would be:

Do these guys train for these events by increasing their 1RM or by training their 'energy systems' by higher rep sets conditioning work??

Also do the guys with the highest 1RM regularly beat the guys with a lesser 1RM in these 'max reps' tests (which is what Tommy's lattice test does as I understand it).

(As an aside I am surprised the lattice board isn't variable angle so you could set the individual moves of the lattice circuit at a certain grade to eliminate the strength factor by making them a fixed % of the climbers 1RM bouldering grade. Thus truly evaluating energy system efficiency)


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#11 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 24, 2016, 10:15:28 am
Could someone stick these on the Wiki or is there an alternative link to Google drive? Can't seem to get it to work. Cheers

nai

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#12 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 24, 2016, 10:38:14 am
I saw the first on the Lattice Training FB page before it was added here, you could check there.

shark

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#13 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 24, 2016, 10:58:03 am
Could someone stick these on the Wiki or is there an alternative link to Google drive? Can't seem to get it to work. Cheers

Just added them to google docs temporarily until Toby gets back then he will embed them on UKB somehow as he did for previous training PDF docs

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#14 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 24, 2016, 11:31:39 am
One Simple Trick To Climb 8B? You Won't Believe It!

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#15 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 24, 2016, 12:43:26 pm
Misleading. I 'd like a refund please. Bitterly disappointed that 'Lattice Training' does nothing to prepare for elite level pie consumption, despite its name.


« Last Edit: August 24, 2016, 12:49:48 pm by mrjonathanr »

nai

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#16 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 24, 2016, 12:50:52 pm
does nothing to prepare for elite level pie consumption.

Pie? I thought it was Waffle.

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#17 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 24, 2016, 01:27:29 pm
Could someone stick these on the Wiki or is there an alternative link to Google drive? Can't seem to get it to work. Cheers

I can summarise: Your aerobic energy system is pathetic and you need to climb more easy routes.

£100 next time you see me.

Nibile

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#18 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 24, 2016, 01:51:43 pm
I find the Usain Bolt analogy misleading though. Running has little to do with 'strength' (I am sure all professional sprinters can leg press roughly similar).
Sorry Marc but your post is completely out of place. The analogy just helps in comprehending that it's impossible to sustain a 100% max effort for a long time.
Also, sprinting has lots to do with strength, it only depends on which type of strength you refer to.
Edited because of misreading. 
« Last Edit: August 24, 2016, 01:59:23 pm by Nibile »

mrjonathanr

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#19 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 24, 2016, 01:59:26 pm
I agree. What we need is a proper, objectively quantifiable training resource.


Oldmanmatt

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#20 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 24, 2016, 04:57:14 pm


I love Tapatalk's algorithms for selecting advertising...



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marcpontin

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#21 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 25, 2016, 08:00:46 am
To Nibile: 'your post is completely out of place' What? i'll ignore that condescending comment.
of course I get the point of the analogy, and it works on that level, my point was a little more subtle. Climbers refer to 'strength' usually as pure static 'grunt'. ie how much added weight can you dead hang an edge. Any speed element, plyometric ability etc is referred to as 'power'. I only meant to make the observation that in sprinting I don't suppose this type of static strength is particularly correlative with performance.

(I am a big fan by the way!!!)

Nibile

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#22 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 25, 2016, 01:16:16 pm
Sorry Marc, but do you think I can read your mind? Where in your first post did you explain that subtlety as per your second post?
You just referred to strength, and I pointed out that sprinting has lots to do with it, depending on which kind of strength you mean. As you see, I was close to reading your mind. Power is based on strength and speed.
In my opinion you're still putting too much into the analogy. It's not a training analogy, or even a functional analogy, it's not even sprint specific: it just means that it's impossible to sustain a max effort for long. Nothing more. He could have said that it's impossible to yell at max volume all day long, or to fuck at max intensity all night, or to eat at max capacity all day, if you get what I mean.
There's no specific reference to training power, or speed or strength, and the likes. Your considerations are not related to the original meaning of the analogy, that is very very simple: max intensity, minimal time. It's just how energy systems work.
Then, another thing is your question: how one could best apply the different kinds of strength to an optimal climbing training. That's a legitimate and interesting question, but one that goes far beyond Tommy's example.

And with regards to your question, you seem to proceed by taking things for granted while in fact they are not. You imply that all professional sprinters leg press the same, you imply that climbers refer to "strength" as static fingers strength, then you draw your conclusions, but your premises are just personal assumptions. In this way, the discussion becomes very difficult, because your premises could be different from mine and both could be absolutely not proven.
Anyway, maybe split into another topic?
« Last Edit: August 25, 2016, 01:26:33 pm by Nibile »

marcpontin

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#23 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 25, 2016, 03:57:49 pm
Fair enough mate! My post was a bit brief and presumptive! your points are well made. Btw had a play on the Foundry lattice board today and its bloody ace. These boys have thought this shit thru!!!

Nibile

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#24 Re: Tommy's Top Training tips
August 25, 2016, 04:58:42 pm
Absolutely! They do apply their knowledge on rock pretty well!
 ;D

 

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