[Simon W]

If you climb at the works have you considered doing a training plan with one of the coaches there? Did one with Dave Mason a couple of years ago which helped me push my grade. Tom, Lucinda and Sam also all come highly recommended.

[Simon W]

For the sake of comparison, I'm also pushing 40 with a young family and nowhere near as strong as you on a BM but boulder in the mid 7s and manage most murples and some blues. How long have you been climbing?

[tim palmer]

I am in Sheffield. I think gritstone is knacky and conditions dependent and there isn't that much of that compared to font.

I said the same thing about bishop, hueco and cresciano, nowhere is as good as font.  You tried the limestone, it is basic!

[Nibile]

To the OP, I think that the only way to climb harder is to become stronger. Stick to the BM and don't listen to these guys telling you to refine your skills, they're just jealous hypocrites.

[Doylo]

 I guess it shows the benefit of having the opportunity and access to make up for a lack of talent with a willingness to siege.

You just described me.

[jwi]

To the OP, I think that the only way to climb harder is to become stronger. Stick to the BM and don't listen to these guys telling you to refine your skills, they're just jealous hypocrites.

(skip to 4.00)

So there are two options: you have to get stronger ... no, actually, that's the only option 

[Nibile]

Congratulations Tim!
When I posted I wasn't sure that someone would have taken me seriously, but hey, you surprised me!

[Nibile]

Tim, I'm still joking. Take it easy man.

[tim palmer]

None taken, 

I think the works isn't a great training wall, I didn't feel I got much out of it strength-wise when i lived in Sheffield, i think the foundry is much better

[rlovatt]

Simon W:  I have been climbing on and off for twenty years. The majority of my outdoor climbing has been trad and the odd sports and bouldering trip abroad.

When I lived in London I was definitely climbing harder but was going to mile end 2-3 times a week. I am impressed with you managing most of the murples. I have managed the odd blue that's crimpy.

[Simon W]

Similar to me in terms of years climbing too, I've always just bouldered though. Sounds like you have very strong fingers! Can you pull through these holds on the BM or is it all static hangs? The coaching sessions I had at the works were very helpful for identifying my weaknesses. Think this is quite hard to do yourself for some people, certainly was for me. I'm finding the new steep board at the works good for training. I'm sure that would help build strength in your arms, shoulders, back and core if this is where your weaknesses lie.

Hopefully catch you down there at some point!

[rlovatt]

Hi Simon,

I spent a lot of time on the 45 at mile. Maybe I should have a crack at the one at the works.

I might well see you down as I signed up for a year after Christmas.  However I have not been for two months after a disappointing trip to Sardinia in terms of climbing, just proving what a defeatist I am

[rlovatt]

Simon W, No problems either pulling through either on all two handed holds.

[mctrials23]

So it turns out climbing is a load of bollocks and finger strength is largely unrelated to grades. I was hanging the small crimps on the beastmaker the other day for 10s with 40kg added and I can only boulder about 7a/b. FML

[Simon W]

I'm normally down there 2/3 times a week so come over and say hello if you're around, I'm usually climbing with my wife who's Japanese and my 8 month old who looks like a Japanese version of me so should be easy to spot!

[Omar15]

Gents,

Thanks for the input and the recommendations.

Omar: You say you are clear on what to rectify. Out of interest, what do you need to rectify?

Hey, just saw this. So for me I usually fail to complete problems because I'm terrible at linking moves I find hard together. The exercises they've given me therefore have this as their focus - so that my drop off from maximum has less of a steep decline.

[rlovatt]

Simon W: I will certainly say hello if I see you.

Omar: that makes sense. thanks for the reply