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Warp buttress, Ravenstones (Read 2860 times)

JamieG

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Warp buttress, Ravenstones
July 26, 2016, 04:38:46 pm
Chew valley aficionados, can I tap your collective knowledge. What is the score with project line on the warp buttress at Ravenstones. Was walking the dogs up there the other day and it looks amazing. The BMC Climb Britain Over the Moors guide says it is hard (V11) if remember correctly. Far far too hard for me, just looks like a stunning line and suprised it has been done.

Also there is an obvious big boulder right next to the stream near the waterfall a bit further up. It has clearly been climbed before but I can't find any info on it either. The undercut front face looks quite hard and a good line.

Cheers Jamei

grimer

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#1 Re: Warp buttress, Ravenstones
July 26, 2016, 06:28:29 pm
Hi Jamie, as far as I know it has not been done. The V11 came from Miles Gibson, from a top rope session. Sorry if it implies it is aleady done.

r-man

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#2 Re: Warp buttress, Ravenstones
July 26, 2016, 07:21:18 pm

Also there is an obvious big boulder right next to the stream near the waterfall a bit further up. It has clearly been climbed before but I can't find any info on it either. The undercut front face looks quite hard and a good line.


Some stuff has been climbed on the boulders below the Standing Stones further down the valley. Is that what you mean?

http://peakbouldering.info/areas/4-northern-grit/crags/140-standing-stones#.V5cz4jX-UyE

JamieG

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#3 Re: Warp buttress, Ravenstones
July 26, 2016, 09:34:38 pm
Hi Jamie, as far as I know it has not been done. The V11 came from Miles Gibson, from a top rope session. Sorry if it implies it is aleady done.

Oops sorry i meant 'surprised it hasn't been done' it just looks so good.

JamieG

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#4 Re: Warp buttress, Ravenstones
July 26, 2016, 09:44:27 pm

Also there is an obvious big boulder right next to the stream near the waterfall a bit further up. It has clearly been climbed before but I can't find any info on it either. The undercut front face looks quite hard and a good line.


Some stuff has been climbed on the boulders below the Standing Stones further down the valley. Is that what you mean?

http://peakbouldering.info/areas/4-northern-grit/crags/140-standing-stones#.V5cz4jX-UyE

Cheers R-man, no I don't think it is those boulders. You can see the block right in the bottom of the valley at the back of this picture (https://goo.gl/maps/WxDb68vDT4R2). I've zoomed in on it hence it is slightly blurry. (At least i think that is the block).

It's the only one there, but there are probably 2-3 decent lines on it. I should have taken some snaps. when i was up there.


grimer

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JamieG

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#6 Re: Warp buttress, Ravenstones
July 27, 2016, 11:07:29 am
Near the bottom of this page

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19285.25.html

Cheers Grimer. It really is quite a stunning looking line.

Bonjoy

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#7 Re: Warp buttress, Ravenstones
July 27, 2016, 12:47:32 pm
Went for a look at both of these with Ned a year or so back.
Started on the stream boulder, but this ended quite quickly when Ned snapped a hold off unexpectedly in an awkward position, flew off, missed the pads and was very lucky to get away without breaking bones. So ended up sacking that off. Might have climbed an easier line but can't recall the details - it can't have been a classic.
Ned then had a play on abseil on the prow. Didn't seem massively enthusiastic but this could have been due to still being a bit shaken up by the near miss. The landing drops away and I think it would work more as a headpoint quite serious route rather than a highball boulder prob and he wasn't keen for that.

JamieG

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#8 Re: Warp buttress, Ravenstones
July 27, 2016, 02:03:45 pm
Went for a look at both of these with Ned a year or so back.
Started on the stream boulder, but this ended quite quickly when Ned snapped a hold off unexpectedly in an awkward position, flew off, missed the pads and was very lucky to get away without breaking bones. So ended up sacking that off. Might have climbed an easier line but can't recall the details - it can't have been a classic.
Ned then had a play on abseil on the prow. Didn't seem massively enthusiastic but this could have been due to still being a bit shaken up by the near miss. The landing drops away and I think it would work more as a headpoint quite serious route rather than a highball boulder prob and he wasn't keen for that.

Cheers for the info Bonjoy. Glad Ned was alright. Snappy holds don't sound good. The right hand side looked a lot easier than the front face, so wouldn't be suprised if you quickly did a something on that (probably only 5s/low 6s). The front face looked like the harder problem, guess that is what Ned fell off, which doesn't bode well for this punter. :-)

I agree that the prow as a boulder problem is probably not realistic. It is more than stretching what would be considered highball. Would be a solo, unless there is gear. But i couldn't tell. Was a bit too far away.


 

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