[James Malloch]

Two of us are heading out to Chamonix in early August for a week to visit and stay with a friend.

I hadn't really thought about the climbing side and I know literally nothing about the area so hope that someone can offer some advice. I assume I'll be more limited to the surrounding valleys but:

I'd like to predominantly sport climb if possible (single or multi pitch)
I'd like to avoid snow (i.e. just rock climbing, nothing mixed).

Is there anything decent in the area that springs to mind? If so, are there certain guidebooks that I should look out for?
Any particularly impressive/scenic walk recommendations would be welcomed too (again, probably avoiding the snow unless we can get some crampons from our friend).

We'll have access to a car and grades from low 6's to mid 7's would be ideal.

[Coops_13]

The multi-pitches on the aiguilles rouges are worth a shout. Very nice climbs and you can do many link-ups in a day. La joux and les gaillands are alright for a one-time visit.


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[Fultonius]

The best single pitch sport and multi-pitch sport not on snow would be Barberine & Gietroz:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1951

For some more adventurous mutli-pitch, that is still a dry walk would be the Perrson de Vallorcine:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9828

Squatteurs de Lune and La Grevole were both decent IIRC. Bada Bing is meat to be great at F6c.

Bionassay is very nice, but might be too hot in August.

There are some good routes up on La Brevent, the low 6s get very busy. Premier de Corvée is one of the best mutli-pitch "sprad" routes I've done. Think 4 pitches of E4, with bolts were it gets too runout. The last pitch is mind-blowing.

https://www.bmcshop.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=5379 is the guide, or the vultures make a pretty rip-off ;-)

[Fultonius]

Walks. Millions!  Les Posettes @ Le Tour. Lac Blanc. Lac Blu.

[James Malloch]

Great - thanks for the route, crag and walk recommendations! I'll try and grab a copy of that guide before we go - always good to have something handy.

Look like a good bunch of suggestions. On Premier de Corvée - when you say "Think E4...", do you need to place gear as you go? Or is the bolting enough to just rely on that?

I've not placed a runner for a number of years. My only trad fall resulted in ripping out 5 of my 6 pieces (I hit the ground before weighting the sixth). Needless to say, placements aren't my forte. But I'm happy with a reasonable runout if there's something coming up/the harder bits are protected.

[SA Chris]

Brush up on your trad? Even if you only lead VS on gear it will open a wealth of opportunities and you can still avoid the snow.

if you like slabs check out http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=17570#overview

You need to ab in, so make sure you know where you are going.

Or you can pose for shots with MB in the background at http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2522#overview

[Fultonius]

Great - thanks for the route, crag and walk recommendations! I'll try and grab a copy of that guide before we go - always good to have something handy.

Look like a good bunch of suggestions. On Premier de Corvée - when you say "Think E4...", do you need to place gear as you go? Or is the bolting enough to just rely on that?

I've not placed a runner for a number of years. My only trad fall resulted in ripping out 5 of my 6 pieces (I hit the ground before weighting the sixth). Needless to say, placements aren't my forte. But I'm happy with a reasonable runout if there's something coming up/the harder bits are protected.

Ah ok, everything on the Brevent is basically trad with a few bolts. The last 40m has none as it's bomber cracks all the way....maybe not a great suggestions ;-)

Barberine / Gietroz sounds like the place for you!

[csl]

For single pitch sport - Afrique, La Gorge and La Zone area's at Barberine Gietroz are really good, and should be good in August as quite high up.

Bionnassay is the best sport crag in the area (i think), but as mentioned could be a bit hot.

I personally wouldn't bother visiting Les Gaillands at all, its pretty crap.

For more mountainous routes, i remember the Voie Frison Roche being fun http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=40897 and its fully bolted. Get there early though, its a bit of a popular one, we ended up beating 6 other parties to the start.

[SA Chris]

Never go to Gaillands intentionally, always have it as a post pub backup, or a quick hit. Marginally better routes and less crowds round to the left side.

[T_B]

Dunno where there's a topo, but one of the Guides' after-work favourites is 'Church Crag' before you get to Vallorcine, as it's a quick hit from Chamonix, it's in the shade and it's steep and pumpy. Not loads there, but a couple of decent 6s on the left, then some really good, very long 7a - 7b+s. The 7b+ on the right is 3 stars - pumpy but also technical. There's a 7b up the middle with a load of bolt-on holds on it, which isn't so great! Not sure where you'd get a topo or directions from, ask around in town maybe. Any Brit guide will know it, though it is slightly tricky to find. If it's hot it's a better bet than Gietroz I believe. Basically Chamonix is crap for sport climbing! Medonnet is worth a visit if you fancy some bouldering and have a bit of a team. OK, so it's not Font, but I liked the setting and some of the lines are fairly impressive. Again, a bit of an ar*e to find - sorry!

[Fultonius]

Oh yeah, forgot about Church Crag - it's worth a look. Watch out after a big storm though - some big stuff has been known to come down the gully above.

If you are in need of a topo PM me and I'll try and as around to see if anyone has one. (i'm not in Cham anymore, but should be able to get some info)

[nai]

Never go to Gaillands intentionally

Was planning to take the kids there this week. Better off at La Joux? Any other recommendations? Can't remember all the options without the guide to hand. Something like Vipers?

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[Fultonius]

Never go to Gaillands intentionally

Was planning to take the kids there this week. Better off at La Joux? Any other recommendations? Can't remember all the options without the guide to hand. Something like Vipers?

It's not awful it's just when you're somewhere like Chamonix you're not really experiencing the best that's on offer. What grade range are you looking for?

[SA Chris]

Never go to Gaillands intentionally

Was planning to take the kids there this week. Better off at La Joux? Any other recommendations? Can't remember all the options without the guide to hand. Something like Vipers?

For kids it's fine, mostly lower grades and positive holds. It can feel like a zoo sometimes though, always crowded, loads of topropes and people climbing over each other, which might be a bit intimidating for them . La Joux is a lot more chilled out and quiet, but more slab type climbing. Alternatively Les Chavants near Les Houches is usually dead quiet http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2900#maps
or if you fancy a day trip La Duchere near les Contamines which has a great swimming lake, and loads of sporting activities nearby. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=3250#overview There's also the easy crag at Servoz http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2537#maps although the climbing is mostly on very ledgy rock, so might be awkward if short. This would be great combined with the spectacular walk at  http://www.gorgesdeladiosaz.com/english/

[nai]

Cheers, Chris. Good knowledge.  Reckon we'll try La Joux first as it's more local to us in Argentiere.  Like the look of that gorge walk, will look at combining that with a few hours climbing somewhere. Also want to visit the animal park over in Les Houches so that'd make a full day I reckon.

[SA Chris]

There's a good stream for paddling in at La Joux too, and some novelty bolted routes on the viaduct. And a boulder in the trees with a prob or two on it.

[SA Chris]

Like the look of that gorge walk, will look at combining that with a few hours climbing somewhere.

There's the bouldering at Medonnet and some up at Plaine Joux (which I've never visited, but look OK for a few hour's diversion. Both are not far. We did the gorge walk without kids (well while expecting!) and I thought it was great.

[nai]

We ended up going to Servoz today.

Dis.As.Ter.

Partly due to a kids group having the left half of the crag adorned with top ropes but the ledgey nature did for us.  In ascent it was fine but coming down the kids would just stand on every ledge and refuse to move. Then after much coaxing they'd be lowered to the next ledge where the whole thing would start again. Took one of them 2 minutes to climb a route then 30 to be lowered off in flooods of tears.  Luckily we got rained off.

On the other hand the Gorge is absolutely amazing.  Made more so today at the sight of a pair of Yellow Wagtails with their young.

[SA Chris]

Don't say I didn't warn you....

Glad you enjoyed the gorge walk though.

Maybe this should be split to an "Alps with kids" thread  - kind of hijacked Jame's thread!

Recommend Le Contamine btw, the loisir area is great, and there is rally accessible kids stuff to climb, some with glued on bits of rock...

It's in the Arve guide, but you can have a look in the guide in Snell or somewhere for access and probably someone with a guidebook when you get there.

[Fultonius]

P.S. if any needs a scan of any guidebook pages in the Arve, Giffre or cham valley guides gimme a shout and I can email you them.

[James Malloch]

Brush up on your trad? Even if you only lead VS on gear it will open a wealth of opportunities and you can still avoid the snow.

if you like slabs check out http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=17570#overview

You need to ab in, so make sure you know where you are going.

Or you can pose for shots with MB in the background at http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2522#overview

I definitely need to brush up on my trad. It's one of my aims in the next year (or two...). I'm not a fan of slabs but my girlfriend is. I could just send her up first!

For single pitch sport - Afrique, La Gorge and La Zone area's at Barberine Gietroz are really good, and should be good in August as quite high up.

Bionnassay is the best sport crag in the area (i think), but as mentioned could be a bit hot.

I personally wouldn't bother visiting Les Gaillands at all, its pretty crap.

For more mountainous routes, i remember the Voie Frison Roche being fun http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=40897 and its fully bolted. Get there early though, its a bit of a popular one, we ended up beating 6 other parties to the start.

I'll make a note of those and hopefully visit some - thanks! A fully bolted multipitch sounds good too!

What does "TD- 6a" equate to? Is that a 6a sport route? Or a TD with a tech grade of 6a?

Maybe this should be split to an "Alps with kids" thread  - kind of hijacked Jame's thread!

Don't worry about it! To be honest, the walks and swimming spots sound great for me too!

[csl]

Doesn't deserve an alpine grade, i guess thats just a direct conversion for difficulty. The approach and descent are via a gondola. There is a walk down a scree slope to get to the start but i remember it being pretty chilled.

Its basically just multipitch sport high up a mountain

[James Malloch]

Ace! Care to estimate a grade? I'll be with Zora so want to make sure things suit us both.

Give me a shout if you're up in Leeds this summer too. I'm free from 14th August once I'm back from Cham. No plans and keen for limestone.

[James Malloch]

Also, does anyone have any experience of sleeping in Geneva?

My flight back is at 0730 on a Sunday morning. Would I be okay to sleep in The airport or will I need to get a hotel/Airbnb somewhere?

[duncan]

No experience but the usually reliable  sleeping in airports suggests it's okay.