[fried]

Another week of nothing much. I can walk down stairs without using a handrail.

Sat - Childrens circuit at Roche aux Sabots, some traversing, and a quick session going nowhere with the wrong beta on this crap sit-start https://bleau.info/sabots/19013.html

[webbo]

Mon. Biked to work 20 miles. Biked home 20 miles.
Tue. Nothing felt too hot to train on the board.
Wed. Bike 25 miles including 3 sets of intervals.
Thu. Same as Tuesday.
Fri. Biked to work 20 miles, a spoke broke 12 miles in. Bike completely unridable needed to call for a bike change. However given the missus had to load a bike in to car and drive 12 miles to me, it was a bit slower than the ones in the tour. Bike home 20 miles.
Sat. Board session trying old problems with no footholds on the kicker. Not a bad session. Bike 34.81 miles 1 hr 59 mins.
Sun. 30 warm up problems. Then 5 sets of repeaters 5 secs on 5 off X 5 with 31 lbs added.
Bike 17.89 miles 1 hour 4 sets of intervals.

[csl]

STG - End of August
 
Get on an 8a
Try and do Azazel 7A + Goat Rage short 7B

MTG - End of the year

Climb an 8a

Tick a few off this list

Dominatrix, New Dawn, Biological Need, Tennessee, Paradise Lost, Realm of Chaos, Colours, Stay Golden, Frazzled

LTG - 2017

more trad, onsight 7c

Wed

Boulders @ Arch. Too hot really, progress on board project. Can do move 1 and hold the position on the 2nd move.

Thu

Pulled a sicky and went bouldering at Eridge Green Rocks. Pleasantly surprised given Southern Sandstone's reputation, tried a few things, got scared topping out into sandpits. Managed the 6C version of Azazel, and should have done the 7A version too but was too tired to link. Goatrage or Nightfall look like good possible 7C projects, but not sure how dry they will be regularly. Might try and head back to finish of the 7A version and try the short version of Goat Rage (7B) one evening this week.

No real training this week, too hot!

[tomtom]

Back in the saddle

M:
Tu: Depot for 90 min before the day got too hot.. Gave up in the main room after about 60 min and did *shock* some circuits... and *horrror* enjoyed it!! I felt dirty afterwards...
We:
Th:
Fr: Stockport Wall for 90 min at lunchtime
Sa: Got pissed for the first time in about a month...
Su: A little wobbly... managed to get an hour in at Helsby before it rained..

Whats happened to my finger strength? After not climbing for quite a while, my core feels OK, arms and shoulders working OK, but my fingers are just uncurling from crimps I could previously bone down on.. Weird, when I've had breaks before and never had this before (lots of other things have performed badly).. time for some sessions on the beastmaker I think...

[Muenchener]

STG (August/September): get a couple of more decent alpine rock routes done.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

München DAV Oberreintal Expedition

M:
T: Oberreintal approach hike. Three and a half hours with a 20+ kg rucksack - the hut here is bring your own food and we were planning to stay for up to five days. Thirty degrees plus on the drive down, fortunately the march was in the shade otherwise it would have been tough.

W: Oberreintal. The only day with a stable weather forecast, so we got straight onto our ambitious goal: Sonntagsarbeit. Local classic at ten pitches, two of them 6a+. Excellent, but with a tedious descent. Long day.

T: Oberreintal. Raining in the morning, went for a walk to another hut higher up the hill for lunch. Got there and the sun was out for a couple of hours before the afternoon thunderstorm, so nipped up the normalweg (UIAA III) on the next summit for a quick solo.

F: Oberreintal. Started up a ten pitch route in the morning, abbed after three pitches because of lots of helicopter activity in the next corrie, where as far as we knew only our mates were climbing. Back to hut fearing we might be on our way to succor traumatised survivors, turned out it was only an exercise. Cup of tea at the hut, back up for a quick five pitch route in the afternoon. Abbed off just too late to avoid the thunderstorm, soaked, rope stuck on the last ab & had to be left overnight. Proper alpine day.

S: Oberreintal. Had to do the route next to yesterday's in order to get the rope back, so just as well that Rentnerrennbahn 6a turned out to be six pitches of pure fun, jug hauling up steep grooves with the occasional bolt & plenty of bomber trad gear in between. This time we managed to be back on the ground with both ropes down before the thunderstorm yyfy. Forecast was bad for Sunday so hiked down in the evening & drove home. Found I was more appreciative of the landscape beauty of the approach when going downhill with a lighter rucksack.

S: rest

I can walk down stairs without using a handrail.

Proving challenging for me at the moment, in my case on account of all the yomping about with a gbfo rucksack.

[shark]

Thanks fried

10.11-12

M.

T. Hottest day of the year. High Tor with Dave Turnbull. Earlyish start. Warmed up on Right Wing. Then headed over to Left Wing. Got on Roadrunner E6. Had Friend 1 ready as I had seen Jon use it the previous week except it wasnt a friend 1 but a Camalot 2 which I had left on the ground. Tried to place other smaller cams without success and lowered off a green alien. Second go fell by the thread and dogged as far as the belay left of the High Torquing belay and lowered off. Dave had a go. Then I had another go and got through to the belay left of teh High Torquing belay by the skin of my teeth. Was pretty tired and briefly thought about finishing there. Carried on into the A6 headwall. Was relying on old pegs but went for it pumped slapping for holds and very nearly blew it. Got to a final bolt near the top with a crab and very tempted to lower off from there but knew it would niggle. Managed to do the last tricky moves and summited into teh grass and blazing sunshine.    Dave followed just as the sun was coming on to the face.
Retrieved gear and headed back to the car and the gauge said 31degrees  Went to Lorry Park Quarry which was nicely shaded. Dave did Supercarck 7a and I led it on his gear. Dave then tried On The Road 7a which is an amazing corner with funky moves. Dave didnt get on with it but I flashed it OK. Then went to the Poets Corner in Ashover for a celebratory pint

W.

T. Chee Tor with Stacked Sam. Both did 42nd Street E3 as warm up. Sam then cruisedf Ceramic E4 5c. Ive done it a couple of times in teh past but decided to do it as well as the runout would be good  for my head. I was a bit hesitant but despatched it ok. Didnt feel like trying Autobahn after that. We both did Splintered Perspex E3/4 6a which again I had done before and is a great route though a bit overly reliant on shonky peg at the top. Went to the Moon which someone (Phil Kelly?) had said was reverting to a climbers pub. I don't think so! Sam declared over a pint that we hadn't tried hard hard enough and the day had been an indulgence.

F. Fingerboard. Started at 4pm and got two-thirds of the way through by 6.30pm when we had to go for a family night out to see a crappy film andf have a burger. Drank most of a bottle of wine. Got home and carried on with the session into the small hours swigging gin between deadhangs. Also attempted 150kg deadlift. Just about got it off the ground twice.

S. AM Labouring

S. Crag X. Leisurely session. Took a chair and read the paper. Bit greasy at times. Managed to link JR off the ladder from finger rail to end and also ground to finger rail a few times.             

Two superb trad days.   

[nai]

Effort on RR, Shark  fancy some of that

goals:
summer - train - maintain fitness, get stronger
Autumn - Powerplant & Raindogs (and Body Machine/Proud Whore if dry) + WIPs
LTG - might be passing phase but OS 7C and do an/some E6s. Tequila top of the list

M -
AM - garage
quick bouldering session working out some new problems
worked out new 4x4 problems and completed a set.

Eve - HI AeroCap

T - rest

W - garage
- bouldering, working out 2 move project power problems
- repeaters - drag & 1/2 crimp
- intro to TRX
- core

Th -
AM - 4x4 2mins on, 2 mins rest  x2 sets. Good intensity, failing toward the end as per the manual
PM  - 2 x 10mins LI AeroCap

F - drove 400 miles.
S - drove 400 miles, thunderstorm on arrival meant no playing out

S  Col des Montets, 20 odd problems, guide says the 5 hardest problems were (chronologically) 6c, 6c+, 7a+, 6c+, 6c+.  More like 6b, 6b+, 6c, 6a, 7a but they're all a bit eliminate so que sera sera, twas fun anyhow.  Even a local couldn't fathom the guide and suggested I do some traverses.

[Footwork]

STG (by end of August): Smouldering Globules of Lust, 7th Aardvark, Personal Services
MTG (by end of year): Shoulder work and quality trad routes.

Mon: nothing? weather getting hot
Tues: Moughton Nab. Onsighted 2x7a's putting clips in. Also did 6 other routes in the 6's that were good. Quite enjoy running up lots of easy sport in a day. Very hot day but nice in the shade.
Weds: Troller's Gill. Fell off the very last moves of Barguest Direct warming up putting clips in. Got it next go but felt knackered. Was with a mate who's done Smouldering and gave me the beta. Went up bolt to bolt checking out the moves but just too tired to RP. I'll keep it on the list for now but it's a bit chossy up top which detracts from the sustained lower half. Wind dropped around 6ish and the midges went into beserker, no ankles spared mode. Ran away.
Thurs: Shoulder felt pretty weak so did some physio, lounged around
Fri: Got exams results back. Drank half a bottle of champagne for breakfast and that was that.
Sat: Played tennis, shoulder still felt weak
Sun: Depot doing some easy climbing and shoulder work.

Haven't done anything intense this week so frustrated by the shoulder not feeling great. Just feels 'looser' than normal. Shall proceed with caution. Off to France friday so not many days left to get on stuff before I eat and drink my way through nine days abroad.

[Duma]

Goals:
Summer - lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, identify (and if possible do) candidates for:
8A (Hunters Roof?)and 8b by next June

70kg. 

Body Audit: shoulder slightly improved, still not great though.

M: Neath Abbey - stupidly hot, overgrown, and ruined my skin, but nice day all the same. Watched James do the extension to Half State, "Stateside" at 8A+. Repeated a few things on the hillside block, ticked off a couple of easy things on the plateau, and managed to unlock the really tricky heel hook move on Frontier (sans footblock) 7A+ by the not at all subtle means of sacking it off and campussing. Got sunburnt.
T: 5 narrow press ups, 10 narrow thumb out pull ups.
W: UCR eve, easy session, bit of toproping, easy boulders after.
T: TCA eve for summer flash comp and BBQ. Poor skin, but feeling ok, sadly silly mistakes cost. 1226 out of possible 1250, should have been at least 1236, could have been 1246. Still, fun eve, finals were good to watch, and most interestingly managed 1-4-6.5 leading with left, not for the acheivement, but as I for the first time since uni felt like I got a good push with the trailing arm.
F: Brief play in the Trench at Hartland, really hot but nice to do a bunch of 6's in the sun. swim in the sea after. Nights.
S: Nights.
S: Couple of hours at Bloc, normally like to spend time on the slabs here as they have much more lower angled stuff than at TCA but the heat meant it wasn't too much fun, esp with skin still recovering, so ended up on a few steeper things. Sweaty but fun to do some new things indoors. Nights.

OK week, shoulder improving, but silly mistakes on Thursday annoying, and heavy.

[Coops_13]

STG: Get fit/strong again!
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport and find/do a project
LTG: 8A & 8a

M - Rest
T - Indoors on hottest day of the year. Warmed up and stuck to the board under a fan. Did some good power endurancy problems, just playing around really until fingers started to hurt.
W -
T - Watching cricket and drinking beer
F -
S - South coast for the weekend. Went to Stair Hole for some DWS. Did Horny lil Devil 7a 4th go today after trying everyone else's techy beta and falling before realising I could just span and muscle my way through  Then did Animal Magnetism 7a+ second go. Feet popped when I went for finishing finger jug, felt like a hero holding the swing at 10ish metres.
S - Fisherman's Ledge for more DWS. Overcast, windy and cold. Psyche levels low so did the 5 to warm-up a few times. Did Freeborn Man Direct (E4 6a?) and then did the original again as all my mates did it.

Sick weekend, have another odd ailment to add to the list. While resting on a ledge in Stair Hole, one of my abs cramped up. It's happened before but this one went on for 2-3 mins, v painful. It's still quite sore and online medical advice (stupid I know) suggests pulled muscle from the cramp or a hernia?!? Anyone had an ab cramp before?

[Nibile]

I have sometimes ab cramps to the second part of the muscle from top, on my right side. They are terrible. The muscle gets so tense that it sticks out and it's like being stabbed - or how I imagine being stabbed is.
I usually have to lie down and stretch backwards massaging the little fucker.
Horrible.

[Nibile]

STG - stay fit and strong, becoming fitter and stronger.
MTG - october: go try the route.

Mon - front raises with plate 50x2; barbell shrugs 50x2; dumbbell complex.
Tue - rest.
Wed - various dumbbell complexes.
Thu - dumbbell complex x5, bentover row x5, cleans x5, pull ups x5, all x6. Then two sets of 10 reps.
Fri - rest.
Sat - various bentover rows, front lever pulls, rings, overhead carries. Not bad.
Sun - rest.

Very very tired. Hard weeks, lots of work and committments. Mega hot again. Decided to tweak the crimp session, dropping a few deadhang sets and adding a few static foot on hangs on the system board. I reckon that being full body excercises, they have a better and bigger muscular and nervous recruitment than deadhangs.
It's a shame I don't have enough time to train as I'd like to and I'm capable of. 

[Coops_13]

I have sometimes ab cramps to the second part of the muscle from top, on my right side. They are terrible. The muscle gets so tense that it sticks out and it's like being stabbed - or how I imagine being stabbed is.
I usually have to lie down and stretch backwards massaging the little fucker.
Horrible.

Yes that's exactly what it felt like, and the same one too. How long does it usually take for there to be no pain or ache? As the ab in question is still aching 2 days on and hurts if I sit-up etc.

[Nibile]

Pain goes away prestty soon after the cramps have gone. The muscle remains a bit stiff and still prone to cramps for a while though. Maybe for a day or two I have to be careful when sitting up, or putting climbing shoes on and the likes. Moves where you curl and pull are to be avoided.

[webbo]

Pain goes away prestty soon after the cramps have gone. The muscle remains a bit stiff and still prone to cramps for a while though. Maybe for a day or two I have to be careful when sitting up, or putting climbing shoes on and the likes. Moves where you curl and pull are to be avoided.

I used to get this a lot mainly when grovelling into pits to try sit starts, usually came like Nibs when putting or taking shoes off.
I  sometimes used to get it when cycling, a particular bad one was when trying to hang on to some ones wheel and eat at the same time. I coughed and got a massive spasm.
However I never seemed to get prolonged after effects.
Also I haven't had it for a while now, whether that's as a result of not crawling in to holes or doing sit starts on the board 3 times a week. Who knows? 

[Coops_13]

I think it was probably due to being dehydrated while trying a steep route a lot. If it doesn't feel better after a couple of days I'll get it checked out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[filz]

M - fb. Weighted pullups. Planks
T - rings: push ups, planks, rows, dips, L-sits. Headstands
W - Lunch: push ups, theraband shoulder excercises, L-sits. Eve: some random fingerboard hangs. Hard session.
T - yoga
F - Board climbing. Tried some 3x3 boulders. Tired. Not yet recovered from fbing on wednesday.
S - S work. nothing

Good training week, though my wrist is still sore and hurts in some positions. Hope it gets better soon.

[Sasquatch]

Been off the juice for awhile.  Time to get back on it. I'm gonna do two weeks...

STG (till Oct 15) - Byron Crimpfest #1 (8a/+), Fright of the Bumblebee (highball 7Cish)
MTG (Oct 15 to next spring) - don't gain winter weight, 1 arm pullup, 1-5-8
LTG - Byron Crimpfest #2, To Bolt

Week 1
M - Str Circuit Class (trying to go once a week), FB - Max hang 18mm Edge +75lbs
T - Routes at wall - 7 x 3 at 7a-7c 
W - Mtn Bike 2hrs
T - FB - Max hang 18mm Edge +82lbs
F - Mtn Bike, Easy climb(boulder up to 7A), then 2.5 hard hike. 
S - Bathroom Remodel
S - Bathroom Remodel and FB - Max hang 18mm Edge +92lbs

Week 2
M - Hike - Found new amazing boulder
T - Mtn Bike - 1.5hrs
W - Boulder outside at new amazing boulder - cleaned and climbed 8 new lines up to 7A, Worked a new 7c?ish, but couldn't quite pull it out.  About 7-9 more lines to clean/climb.  So far all of them are exceptional lines.
T -
F - Fish
S - Fish
S - FB - Max hang 18mm Edge +100lbs, Routes after 5x3 skipping holds on 6c-7a lines.

[ashtond6]

Been away from here a few weeks due to the finger injury.
Actually I think getting the injury was great, it's really kickstarted my love for climbing full stop.

Even going to the indoor wall has been so fun!

Last few weeks just consisted of fun millstone cracks and really easy bouldering circuits

M - rest
T - millstone, did great west road E2 and the cracks on embankment slab. So fun!
W - rest
T - Chee tor. Onsighted Rave On and 42nd Street. Both E3. Also tried Cosmopolitan on the cornice. Fantastic. First proper crimps since injury!
F - rest
S - High Tor, warmed up on M1 a fantastic E2, then led Robert Brown E3 which was steady, then onto the RHS to onsight a great unknown E4 and finished on an E2
S - big hangover, went to the works and did some laps of the board Murple

Trad head back 

Can anyone explain how to do the low crux on Cosmopolitan?

[shurt]

nothing week before last

Last week climbed on Wednesday night. Got my bum handed to me on a plate going bolt to bolt on House Burning Down at Cheddar. My lack of training over the last month or two was laid bare. Was good to get the moves sorted but couldn't even get through the crux bulge on my third time up there and lowered off and went home with tail between legs!!! 

I wish it was light till 9.30 all year round, it would make life easier.

[SA Chris]

Still no climbing.

Week before week before last

M - 30 km bike

rest of week sorting shit out, fly to Lanzarote

S - 6k run. First in about 10 years
S - swim 1200m. Tedious but nice to swim outdoors.
2.4 k on SUP.

week before last

M - bike 25 km, hot and windy
4k on SUP


T
Suspension Yoga (fun but won't repeat)
7k run

W
22 k ride to beach and back for surf
2.5k run

T 28k MTB hot sandy and rocky.

F 3 k run, 6 k SUP

S 21 k Roadbike, 2 in kayak with kids.

S 25 k to beach and back, surf.

Last week

M- 3 k SUP
T - 9 k run in evening. Hot.
W - nothing, lot of walking
T - snorkelling - 1 hour in bay, amazing sea life.
F - travel home
S - 50 k on bike.
S - slow 4 k run with kyle on bike. Lots of stops.

Specialist this week to see about thumb. Hopefully back climbing soon, all this exercise is knackering.

[monkoffunk]

 STG: climb Everyday Lives of Ordinary People. Find 7c+ project.
MTG: 1. French 7c+, before 1/1/17. 2. Get into shape for Spain
3. Tick unfinished business list (5/13).
4. Font 7B before 1/1/17.
LTG: 1. Cider Soak and Academic, before 1/1/18. 2. Font 7B+, before 1/1/18.

M - Working long day.

T - Meetings and late shift.

W - Cheddar. Warm up and dog Ordinary Lives. First go bit of a misfire. Skin of teeth through bottom boulder problem. Screw up foot sequence in mid section. Fight hard to keep it together but can't get back on sequence. Long rest. Second go, through boulder to rest feeling pretty good. Easily up to high point of last time. Feel strong on the top section. Two moves from top. High step and left gaston to finish. Lift foot and can't get it up to where it needs to be. Pop off. Unbelievable. Third go. Well rested but not enough in the tank. Fall off on top section just below high point.

T - Work/rest

F - Bristol. No partner so early morning trip to try bitter and twisted RL traverse before it's too hot. No meaningful progress, boulder on Bulking Agent feels super hard as well!

S - Did a bit of swimming in a lake.

S - Chilling with family.

Nights next week. Will try and fit in training between shifts! Didn't do any last week, need to step it up.

[the_dom]

S/MTG: 8A

Monday: Treadmill, crossfit and some one arm hangs.
Tuesday: Crossfit and treadmill.
Wednesday: Bouldering on the newly-reset Moonboard. I do enjoy the white holds, so spent a happy 90 mins getting shut down.
Thursday: Crossfit and treadmill.
Friday: More Moonboard. More spankings.
Saturday: Short run. Wine. Ate horribly.
Sunday: Was supposed to get outside, but got faded on by mate. Moonboard. Blah. Tried to sneak out for a surf, but no luck.

Not the greatest week, training-wise. Oh well.

[SA Chris]

No winter swells yet, or didn't manage to get out?

[36chambers]

STG:
MTG: Zoo York come Winter
LTG: 8B

pre-previous week
M:
T: Cliff bumbling
W:
T: Cliff bumbling
F:
S: Brimham
S: Conies Dale, good crag, good day out.

Felt progressively beaten up as the week progressed.

M:
T: Depot, hottest day of the year, grim.
W: Ikea
T: Cliff, warm, casual.
F:
S:
S: Anston stones. Excellent day out. Managed Dangerous Action Man Wrestling 7C, which is surprisingly good, and a handful of low 7's. Psyched to go back as there's so much to do!

Currently have a new found love for Limestone bouldering (as long as it's not too vertical). I think I also get why people turn to the Limestone during summer now.

Heading to Squamish next week having done sod all training towards it. Which probably means I'll enjoy myself more as there's no pressure to perform.