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[Peak][High Tor][Dementia][E5 6a,6a,5b] (Read 2336 times)

shark

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[Peak][High Tor][Dementia][E5 6a,6a,5b]
July 05, 2016, 08:59:40 pm
P1. 40m. Start up Lyme Cryme to the overlap (cams) then over the bulge above as for Brompton's Cocktail. Large nut/s and small cams (green alien sits well). Boldly climb diagonally rightwards to join Robert Brown at a pancake flake and follow that route to the bulge. Look right and lock your sights on the overlap in the middle of Original route. Meander diagonally rightwards to join it and belay (Nuts and Cams) . A long and arduous pitch - take plenty of gear.

P2. 20m. Swing around the arete to gain a juggy rail in a magnificent position just left of the thread on Tales. Move up and then head joyfully and horizontally rightwards. Make crux moves to pass the final bolt of Bastille at about knee level (easiest not to clip it) pulling right into a large scoop. Belay (BR and PR). A delightfully pocketed pitch with a belay in a lovely position.

P3. 10m Move left and gain a thread above and finish as for Flakey Wall.

FA Shark and Bonjoy  5th July 2016             

 

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