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Motherboard at the Works (Read 16467 times)

monkey boy

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#25 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 01, 2016, 10:32:03 am
For me personally I think it's great but I can see why people are complaining as it's a lot harder than the old board.

The holds are all really comfy and you can climb on it with bad skin which is definitely something you can't do on most boards.

The old board was far too cluttered and it made remembering problems or seeing holds much more difficult, also a lot of the holds were pretty nasty. This board is easy to see holds and is aesthetically very pleasing to the eye, which may not be important but I think it increases motivation to climb on it.

In regards to using the footholds and getting feet to stay, it's definitely something that will come with time and practise, I think it's a mix of pushing through them just enough and pushing into the board rather than just down, think of it as front lever practise.

Most people I have spoken to seemed to be a little disgruntled at first but are getting used to and actually preferring the new board.

I think it works really well in conjunction with the board at the School where the moves are bigger but the feet are also much bigger, they create two very different styles of climbing and strength.

I think that in the middle of the board it could do with one or two bigger holds, this would make getting to the top a lot easier and open it up to a lot of others. I also think it needs some undercuts in the middle that face outwards rather than inwards.

I think Works and Ned are really open to talking about it in a constructive way, they just want to create a really good, and yes HARD, bit of wall to climb on as the rest of the wall doesn't really offer this.

a dense loner

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#26 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 01, 2016, 11:20:30 am
Practise? You've been spending too much time with Jimmy!

kac

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#27 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 01, 2016, 11:34:53 am
Thanks Dave - those suggestions sound good to me. I'd like to be able to train the  different types of strength you refer to  on the board but I understand the thinking behind making it harder. I'm lucky as can use the wall when it's quiet so don't have to worry about it being too accessible!

Drew

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#28 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 01, 2016, 12:30:32 pm
According to Michaela, soft shoes make a massive difference too. Something which will deform down, and across the hemispheres.

Having not climbed on it yet (or much at all for that matter), I think Dave's comments about it looking nicer and less cluttered do make me want to try it. I climbed on the old board every so often, but never really enjoyed it, as I spent so long searching for the next hold, I'd be powering out before I had the chance to flail at said hold. The openness of the board does appeal.

Personally I was hoping that once the castle was removed, there'd be a "lite" board which was shallower angled, with more incut holds, and so-so feet, rather than the too-shit/too-good variants on the old board. Unfortunately the structure of the castle stayed put. Must have deep foundations.

Monolith

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#29 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 01, 2016, 01:17:54 pm
not to mention an mbe for services to cellars.

God I've missed you. News of this board is getting me psyched to climb again. Sounds amazing good work team!

Mumra

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#30 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 01, 2016, 01:21:35 pm
For my part I think it's genius. I like that it's not inclusive. I like that it would really only be acceptable in Sheffield to have a board where it's mid 7s all holds included.
Have you considered getting stronger (a stronger core at least). It's definitely an option...

You've never climbed on the 55 degree board at Eden rock!

gme

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#31 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 01, 2016, 01:56:07 pm
The Eden wall 55 board is harder without doubt. However i found it pretty frustrating to work out problems due to the density of holds and lack of a numbering system.

Am i in a minority in not liking loads of holds on boards. The last works board was the same, to many holds and them having names made it even worse. The new one has a good number of holds and they are in grids like the school. Much easier.

a dense loner

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#32 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 01, 2016, 01:58:50 pm
I don't like loads of holds either, forces you to be creative with moves and I'm shit so for someone good I'd think the sky would be the limit! I hope they keep it at least a bit sparse!

Nibile

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#33 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 01, 2016, 02:06:40 pm
Re the footboard without holds its genius. Typically on most boards the first couple of moves are easy due to footboards now you have to pull hard from the 1st move and it stops reach being a huge advantage.
That's why my board has no kickboard at all.

webbo

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#34 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 01, 2016, 02:09:28 pm
you could hold a referendum.
Footholds on the kicker.
No footholds on the kicker.
most folk are usually happy to accept the results. 

a dense loner

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#35 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 01, 2016, 02:16:08 pm
Not on here they're not!

AlistairB

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#36 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 01, 2016, 02:29:23 pm
Quote from: gme link=topic=27220.msg527644#msg527644 date
Re the footboard without holds its genius. Typically on most boards the first couple of moves are easy due to footboards now you have to pull hard from the 1st move and it stops reach being a huge advantage.

Yeah, I understand that but it's not like you have to use it just because it's there. I have lots of self-imposed foot rules I use on the Foundry board for the same reasons.

It just seems like you wouldn't lose any of the benefits of the new board by adding more holds. I've never struggled with lots of holds, I like it because it's easier to replicate moves and work weaknesses.

Anyway, everyone likes different things and that's why we bought a house with a garage. Once the roof leak is sorted then we'll have our own board setup the way we like.

SA Chris

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#37 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 01, 2016, 02:51:41 pm
we'll have our own board setup the way we like.

Are you royalty, or Gollum?

AlistairB

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#38 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 01, 2016, 02:57:46 pm
we'll have our own board setup the way we like.

Are you royalty, or Gollum?

Neither, I just live with my other half who also climbs and thus it'll be our board.

BID

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#39 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 01, 2016, 03:51:42 pm
For my part I think it's genius. I like that it's not inclusive. I like that it would really only be acceptable in Sheffield to have a board where it's mid 7s all holds included.
Have you considered getting stronger (a stronger core at least). It's definitely an option...

You've never climbed on the 55 degree board at Eden rock!

Just looked at it on google maps. Does look filthy.

gme

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#40 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 01, 2016, 04:30:33 pm
[quote author=AlistairB link=topic=27220.msg527691#msg527691 d

Yeah, I understand that but it's not like you have to use it just because it's there. I have lots of self-imposed foot rules I use on the Foundry board for the same reasons.

It just seems like you wouldn't lose any of the benefits of the new board by adding more holds. I've never struggled with lots of holds, I like it because it's easier to replicate moves and work weaknesses
[/quote]

That's the whole point though. No easy opt outs therefore forcing you totally out of your comfort zone. A place most of us like to frequent.
Not many of us really try hard if there is an easier version we plumb for it. I found that with the last board, the big footholds were soon used if after a few goes on the jibs I couldn't do the moves. You don't want that option.

Percy B

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#41 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 01, 2016, 08:06:14 pm
Looks from the marks on the arete that somebody has been toe-hooking around the side of the board... :whistle:

a dense loner

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#42 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 01, 2016, 08:47:15 pm
Not seen Gav for ages!

lagerstarfish

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#43 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 01, 2016, 08:57:54 pm
with Gav's short arms and your small head, I'm pretty sure he's not got a hope of banging you out, Dense

 :boxing:

a dense loner

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#44 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 02, 2016, 08:29:47 am
Oh divide and conquer lagers, that's older than the South African vampire. You've been watching too much news recently ;)

SEDur

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#45 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 02, 2016, 10:58:36 am
I think it makes sense to have footholds on the kicker, for the most part.
Otherwise you effectively end up french-starting all problems, as opposed to getting into a stationary hang and then starting.

I think of all the roofs I have seen on peak sport routes, and almost all of them to my memory have a nice little vertical section before it kicks out.
Would it not be beneficial to replicate the style of move by having a kicker?

I suppose you could have the same argument with choosing abysmal feet or abysmal hand holds [and slightly better of the other].

Mumra

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#46 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 02, 2016, 06:03:23 pm
Or just cover it in bits of grip tape?

Honestly the things you people moan about in Sheffield. Try living in another part of the country without several world class walls  :whistle:

monkey boy

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#47 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 03, 2016, 07:37:01 am
The argument for not having footholds on the kick board is that you can just jump off them, creating very similar moves. The slightly grippy paint allows you to smear on it if you want. I think no foot holds on the kicker is definitely good, it makes the first move as hard as other moves.

Nibile

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#48 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 03, 2016, 09:52:42 am
it makes the first move as hard as other moves.
This many people don't like. I don't go to climbing gyms anymore, but at least here most gyms have an embarassing setting tailored on beginners. Fair enough, they pay the bills, but it sucks. Everybody want to tick through the grades without breaking a sweat. Evybudy wanna be a bodybuilder, but don't nobudy wanna lift heavy ass weight.

dr_botnik

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#49 Re: Motherboard at the Works
July 03, 2016, 10:16:36 am
As a certified punter I quite like the challenge of something I can't even pull on. Well, first session I couldn't, second session I pulled on, was hoping on my third go I'd actually make a move, unfortunately a chest infection has struck. The Motherboard is still calling me though, much like heroin, only harder than that pussy shit.

Wouldn't want holds on the kickboard, then you'd have to do even more moves to reach the top as certified by what any punter would regard as "the bottom". The first move on jugs feels f6B in itself.

 

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