[groovedog]

Is the motherboard reset complete?
Climbing / trying to climb on it made me feel a reet punter!

I thought the original one was really good, why change and make the foot holds so bad? Why not have good foot holds and crap ones.

With foot holds that poor you end up on massive hand holds unless you climb 8A!

I'm all for working your weaknesses and being humbled a bit in training but in my mind it feels like its gone backwards?
The works could do with a decent woody setup like Foundry or Moon setup. The circuits board is great but you end up in the way of people doing circuits if you treat it like a woodie.

For the font 7a - 7b climber the new board seems pointless. You pay your membership and then its like 'oh heres the new board crack on...'  leaves you feeling a bit sore!

[a dense loner]

Maybe climb on the other 95% of the surface area at the wall. The guy that built the board has climbed 2 8c's in a day, trained for by building a harder version of the one at the works. His partner who also trains on that board is leading the world cups quite convincingly and has climbed 8b+ outside, not to mention an mbe for services to cellars. It was noted that other people wanted a serious board to train on, this is what we got. If people forego the ego they will realise that this board is fucking fantastic!

[Whyatt]

Get back to the school you know it's the way

[gme]

I thought the same when i first saw it but having had a quick 30 mins play last night with sam i think its great. Totally different to other boards and not really like real climbing but you can feel it working immediately. Feels like a cross between fingerboarding, campusing and doing leg raises.

30mins at the end of a climb and my fingers feel worked today.

Put away your ego and enjoy the challenge of getting up the board. I did it from stand (7A/+ish)but failed from sit. Must be 7B using anything to get up it form sit, sam thought 7B+. Sam described it as the aspirational board.

Plus i do think you will get used to it pretty quickly.

All in all a good addition to all the training stuff available in Sheffield. If you move around between the school, foundry and the works. I cant think of anything thats not covered.

[a dense loner]

I know oracle I know, I wrestle with the thought every day but alas time doesn't permit me at the moment

What gme said.

[Mumra]

Does anyone have any photos of the boards new setup?

[AlistairB]

I get the whole aspiration thing but there's still plenty of space for more holds. I also don't understand why the kickboard has been effectively eliminated, making all the problems shorter. In the current form I think it's pretty crippled compared to the old board, I know a bunch of people who used to train on it but can't anymore because it's impossible to get the intensity right. Horses for courses but I think a board should have as many holds as possible, it's not like that stops the wads making nails problems.

Also, I don't think it's fair to say that people need to put egos aside or whatever, it's a training tool that's become accessible and useful for a much smaller group of climbers. Suggesting that people climb on the rest of the walls instead is pretty unhelpful, I think you know full well there's almost no 45 degree panels at the works and that pre-set problems are generally pretty hopeless for high intensity training.

[a dense loner]

The kickboard has been eliminated cos they didn't want to put any holds on it, this board is more to train core on every move. None of the problems are shorter, it's only your feet that are higher for the first move. Your hand holds are set at the same level they always were.

It appears no one can please anyone these days.

[kac]

I was pleased with the old board. With a few better footholds I'll be pleased with the new one too. With the old one you had the option of doing problems with the bolt on holds or just the little screw ons. I liked the variety that gave so hope it can be tweaked a bit

[gme]

I honestly think give it time. It's very different and very hard but the little go I had you can really feel it will work.

Give it a good few sessions then see if you fell the same.

[Moo]

More holds have been added since the initial reset and more are on the way.

[Jaspersharpe]

When the original motherboard was built it only had really shit footholds and was similar to how Gav just described the new one. As in about 7A to get up it using everything. #notoehooks

It was brilliant and made everyone try harder. I could barely get up the thing but it inspired me and I got stronger (and obviously injured myself) by  trying REALLY hard to climb on it.

Then they put decent footholds on it to make it more inclusive, which I thought was disappointing and ruined the whole point of the thing. I tried really hard to get to the top of the fucker and suddenly it's 6B?

New board sounds great. I'm inspired. Don't spoil it. Plenty of other places for fat weak people (that's me now btw) to climb.

[ducko]

Where can one find photo of this board?

[T_B]

https://twitter.com/minaclimbing/status/742766064052916224

Not been on it, but my wife trains there and reckons it's ace.

[ducko]

That looks mega you miserable gits 

[kac]

So have changes been made to it since that photo was taken? I haven't been for a couple of weeks but it didn't feel 7a to get up to me.

[dave]

I climbed a bit on the original original board, i.e. the one with only small poor wooden edges for feet. It was good in that you had to try hard to keep feet in contact, but very limiting really as moves tended to be shorter, handholds bigger as a result (i.e. to get a problem at any given grade) and there were no foot to hand moves or really stretched out moves. I never went on it after they added load of footholds, but if it was a choice between the old old motherboard and a conventional school 50deg board I would go with the school every time.

[bigironhorse]

I found my first session on the new board pretty humbling but think I'll get used to it. Would like to see some footholds on kickboard though..

Not related to motherboard but noticed that the new sections of wall in the middle now have textured paint (like sandpaper). Surely this can't be by popular demand? I thought the general feeling was a big NO to this sort of thing?

[bigironhorse]

So have changes been made to it since that photo was taken? I haven't been for a couple of weeks but it didn't feel 7a to get up to me.

Don't tell me you thought it was easier!?

[kac]

Haha - no I thought a little harder. Sadly I couldn't get near the top holds to make a proper judgement!

[hstmoore]

I've had a quick go on the new board and thought it was really useful although much harder than the old board (which I was used to).

I found it really hard to keep my feet on and couldn't do more than 2 moves as my feet would just come pretty much straight off.

What techniques/strength do you think you need to keep your feet on those footholds?

[highrepute]

So have changes been made to it since that photo was taken? I haven't been for a couple of weeks but it didn't feel 7a to get up to me.

Yes. There are now more holds on.

What techniques/strength do you think you need to keep your feet on those footholds?

Climb on the board a lot basically. There's not much better training around (see Malcolm Smith)

---------------

I thought it was probably about 7a to 7b to get to the top but there's a steep learning curve to get used to the style.

I think it's good. I can see myself getting stronger climbing on it.

[BID]

For my part I think it's genius. I like that it's not inclusive. I like that it would really only be acceptable in Sheffield to have a board where it's mid 7s all holds included.
Have you considered getting stronger (a stronger core at least). It's definitely an option...

[gme]

I
What techniques/strength do you think you need to keep your feet on those footholds?

After a few goes mine were starting to stay on. I guess there is an element of technique to it but ultimately if your too slappy and let your arse sag out a small amount your feet are off.

If you see someone strong on it their feet dont seem to have the same problems.

[gme]

And its no harder than 7A+ to get up from standing. Adding 3 or 4 moves from the bottom adds a grade.

I thought 7A as it only took me 2 tries, which does not happen at the school where most 7As take me a few sessions never mind goes.

Re the footboard without holds its genius. Typically on most boards the first couple of moves are easy due to footboards now you have to pull hard from the 1st move and it stops reach being a huge advantage.