[Duma]

Ha, me too (for my mum)
Reply to fried, obviously...

[petejh]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid July
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018


Start of peak phase.

M.
T. PE sesh 5. Foot-on at boardroom. Felt tired, didn't match previous sesh. Reduced rest time anyway.
W.
T. PE sesh 6. Foot-on at Mill. Felt tired again, reduced rest time again anyway.
F.
S. Tor, Mecca sesh 4. RH undercut wet. Tried 'razor' move but failed to hold it. Worked traverse moves. Short session.
S. Tor. Mecca sesh 5. RH undercut wet. Tried razor move and held it, then repeated it 4 times. Yes! Breakthrough! Then worked undercut traverse into razor move, failed to hold it on the link but feels like it should happen soon. Good breakthrough sesh! Have now done every move except throw to  'ear' at bottom of the groove, although haven't really tried that move until yesterday.

Happy with Mecca progress, feels like bouldering - impossible impossible impossible click doable. Psyched! Torn back muscle and wet weather put a hold on things for a week but back on track again (well, apart from minging midweek this week..). Still staying away from the move that tweaked back muscle until next weekend. Feels like approaching a good peak but I'm not familiar enough with any links on the route to be at redpoint stage just yet, hope I can get some action from the peak.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. In late from work dinner on the table managed some repeaters afterwards felt crap and rather bloated.
Wed. Off work bike 122.98 miles 7 hours 23 mins a bit battered at the end but felt better than expected.
Thu. Board not going that well, seemed to be lacking in core strength.  Did 2 sets off warm up problems then 5 sets of repeaters.
Fri. Rode to work 20 miles. Rode home 20 miles.
Sat. Board struggling due being hungover and it being hot and humid. Just did laps on a couple of problems using different footholds.
Sun. Bike 62 miles 3 hrs 50 mins fairly hilly ride very windy as well. So it felt hard.

[36chambers]

M:
T: The Cuttings, Portland. Spent half the day sport climbing, followed by bouldering. I really shouldn't do both activities on the same day, it reminds me how bouldering is infinitely better than sport climbing.
W:
T: Indoor bouldering, non training.
F:
S: Another wedding. Cake.
S: Called in at Anston Stones on my way up north for a quick play.

[Duma]

Goals:
Summer - lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, tick Neath Abbey, identify (and if possible do) candidates for:
8A and 8b by next June

69.5kg.

Body Audit: clear (touch wood)

M: Work am, pm drive to Cornwall, nice eve, but too much 
T: Hungover, wasted whole day. Twat. Surf in eve which was hard work, only second surf this year. knackered.
W: stopped by Hartland for a look at Ache Ball on way back to Bristol, raining, and spring tide had properly soaked the cave earlier so bit of a non starter. Lots of chalk and toweling got it semi dryish, but no psyche and seemed hard, beach level too high really too. Waste of time.
T: Took daughter to TCA after school, did most of the new 5s circuit
F: Sulked
S: Daughter went to best mates party at clip n climb in bloc, so stole half an hour playing on a few high 6s
S: Swimming with daughter, bit of breath holding.

Shit week, hope to improve training this week.

[filz]

M: board climbing. First good workout in a couple of months.
T: Lunch. Theraband shoulder exercises and squats. Too hot. Ever. Board climbing. Tired. Repeated a couple of test problems. Harder then some months ago, but happy to have done them.
W: isometric weights
T: Lunch: more theraband shoulder exercises. Eve 3x3 session on the board. Too hot and too tired.
F: nothing
S: Bouldering in the dolomites. Much better than a month ago, but lacking body tension.
S: nothing

Good week overall. After a couple of months of lack of motivation and some minor injuries I seem to be back on track.

[SA Chris]

STG get some fitness up for cycling and surfing on hols
LTG get climbing again.

M - bike after work, 24k
T - bike after work 29k
W - packed
T - Fly to London, travel chaos. In London clearing out aunt's house. Knackering
F - clearing out aunt's house. Knackering.
S - am unloading crap at dump and charity shops. Afternoon barbie.
S - clearing out aunt's house. Knackered. Fly home.

[Footwork]

Time to get stuck in

STG (up to sept): Metal Guru, Smouldering Globules of Lust, 7th Aardvark and Personal Services
LTG (up to end of 2016): Manage climbing without hurting/ overdoing shoulder. Seem to be happy sport climbing for now. Climb, climb and climb. Get as much classic yorkshire trad done as possible.

Mon: Depot. First time climbing since final exams. Two months sat at a desk does wonder for your climbing...
Tues: Malham trad with Tom. Seconded Wombat and dogged up Slender Loris. Amazing climbs, airy positions and I was terrified of the heights. First time topping out at Malham and converted to the trad there.
Weds: Kilnsey. Lead Directissima (basically onsight, rested on a bolt 5 years ago). Too pumped to clip chain on Nerve Ending. Ended up using the draw to clip after I kept dropping the rope mm from the gate. FFS.
Thurs: Almscliff eve with Huw. Did the VS's in the rift I was always too scared to solo. 6m of struggle.
Fri:
Sat: Bojan bailed so ended up at Slipstones. 20 degrees, zero wind and midge hell. Managed a handful of climbs before I melted/ inevitably fell off. Ran away to Knaresborough for ice cream.
Sun:

God I missed rock climbing.

[csl]

STG (up to sept): Metal Guru, Smouldering Globules of Lust, 7th Aardvark and Personal Services 

G'wan lad! You'll get up them, and more!

[shark]

Tues: Malham trad with Tom. Seconded Wombat and dogged up Slender Loris. Amazing climbs, airy positions and I was terrified of the heights.

Great routes - Slender Loris one of trhe all time greats. If you think they are airy try Limehill and Midnight Cowboy

[Footwork]

STG (up to sept): Metal Guru, Smouldering Globules of Lust, 7th Aardvark and Personal Services 

G'wan lad! You'll get up them, and more!

gonna larn forth 

Great routes - Slender Loris one of trhe all time greats. If you think they are airy try Limehill and Midnight Cowboy

The reach between the top breaks on Slender is heart breaking. Loved the crozzly side pulls. That upper band of rock is just awesome.

[nik at work]

Bird ban ends today, hell yeah!!

M - nothing
T - training traverse wall
7b x 2
8a x 1
8a+ x 1
8b/+ - fail
8b/+ - fail
8a
W - nothing
T - nothing
F - training traverse
7b x 1
8a x 1
8b x 1
8b/+ - fail
8a x 2
S - Training traverse
7b x 2
8a x 1
8a+ x 1
8b x 1
8a x 1
S - nothing

Pretty good week mileage wise again, would be nice to get some actual routes climbed though...