[jwi]

Mrs jwi is going to be in Stanford this autumn, but I can only join her for three weeks, starting November 7. She can take 2 weeks off around that time to go climbing somewhere.

I've never climbed in Yosemite or Zion, but my better half has done the Nose and regular route on Half dome (and one route in Zion which she's forgotten the name of...). I'm probably most keen on Yosemite and Mrs is most keen on Smith rocks (she's more of a sport climber these days), but if the weather is bad we could go somewhere else, i.e. Zion (at least that's my plan...)

How's November for Zion? OK or also a bit on the cold side? I haven't climbed proper cracks since forever, but with some preparation beforehand I can probably onsight up to 5.12a/b or so. What's worth doing in Zion apart from Moonlight buttress, and what kind of rack would I need? Tripples or is doubles + tripples in finger to thin hand sufficient?

[Paul B]

I've got the guide so if you get a list of routes together I can let you know the recommended rack. Although Supertopo / mountainproject is probably as useful.

Monkeyfinger ("the Astroman of the desert")? Haven't done it, would've liked to!
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/monkeyfinger/105717820

There's a short (3 pitch 5.10) that's very good (the Headache) and a nearby .11b that requires triples in finger sizes.
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-headache/105718186

I can't find the .11 currently (in work). There's another classic near Monkeyfinger that escapes me too (take a look on my old trip thread as people were very helpful).

Zion isn't a good idea for a 'bad weather' option being Sandstone. You can't climb for several days after rain (it's really soft in places). We had this issue and just did the 'narrows' (it was a bit 'meh' after the first few hours, the Subway looks better).

[jwi]

Thanks!

Yeah, I wouldn't climb wet sandstone. I've done that once, stupidly enough, never again. But its pretty far between Zion & Yosemite, and it's good to have a back-up option if Yosemite is out.

Monkeyfinger sounds interesting. Around 10 pitches is usually ideal for a good day out.

[Offwidth]

The supertopo zion guide unlike most of their guides has some real soul... loads to do from 5.7 on anything from sport to long mulitpitch trad/aid. Moffa and I had a great time despite a very scary experience before bailing on an aid attempt on Moonlight ( a big block came off).

Mountain Project is great for working out seasons and Nov is a mini prime time (scroll down to see the graph)

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/zion-national-park/105716799

[SA Chris]

You spent much time at Red Rocks? Be a good option for a mix of styles?

[jwi]

I've been to Red Rocks. The sport climbing cannot be compared with what we have around Toulouse. I only did one long route (I was there without a partner and struggled to find people to climb long routes) Levitation 29, which was quite good, but it's not Verdon, is it? Maybe there are better/more unique long routes in Red rocks?

[Paul B]

That would be Rainbow Wall (not done, only heard great things).

I wasn't blown away by it either, the awkward mix of trad and bolts just didn't work for me.