[Kingy]

I did this last night (Powerband into Out of my Tree) and cant see it described in the ukc database (I have now added it) or the peak bouldering site. I wondered if any body knew of it being done by anybody other than when Ru did Out of Stamina 8A+ (Staminaband into OOMT) and what their thoughts on the grade were? I think it is 8A but must be a fair bit easier than Ru's link. For context, OOMT sit is 7B+ I believe, which u have to link onto from powerband

[user deactivated]

Can you get a hands off shake on that pillar Ted? Looks good!

[T_B]

It would get 8A in The Cave, but I suspect 7C+ for aficionados of the Tor.

E.g.

Staminahumps (7C + 7B+) = 7C+
PUTPBand (7C to jug/pocket on PUTP + 7C+) = 8A+

[dave]

Isn't this largely dependent on how much of a rest you allow yourself on the slabby plinth? Does starting squatted on the plinth really add a grade onto OOMT?

I can see the logic of saying if the long version is 8a+ (i.e. the OOMT but adding a grade onto an 8a) then the shorter version should be 8a. BUT, assuming I could actually get my fingers into the OOMT slot these days then I'd wager any money than powerband into OOMT is an easier proposition than Staminaband or even Staminahumps, so 7c+ might sound more in keeping with local grades? Everything would be 8a in the cave.

[Ru]

I originally did Staminaband/OOMT without resting on the plinth. It's a bit artificial. I've also done PB/OOMT in the past. I find both Staminaband and PB very hard for the grades due to not being able to reach and/or properly weight the low feet so I'm not best placed to comment on the grades apart from knowing that adding OOMT adds a bit.

[Doylo]

No soft touches at the Tor is there fellas (cough keenroof cough) 

[petejh]

Ha! A rare glimpse into the beating heart of the tor sandbagging monster.

[Doylo]

Luke said Too Hard for Mark Leach would be 6A in Wales.

[Andy F V2.0]

Isn't this largely dependent on how much of a rest you allow yourself on the slabby plinth? Does starting squatted on the plinth really add a grade onto OOMT?

I can see the logic of saying if the long version is 8a+ (i.e. the OOMT but adding a grade onto an 8a) then the shorter version should be 8a. BUT, assuming I could actually get my fingers into the OOMT slot these days then I'd wager any money than powerband into OOMT is an easier proposition than Staminaband or even Staminahumps, so 7c+ might sound more in keeping with local grades? Everything would be 8a in the cave.

Why are you giving boulder problems sport grades? 

[Bonjoy]

Ha! A rare glimpse into the beating heart of the tor sandbagging monster.

It doesn't have one, and if it did it'd be silent

[petejh]

Cold-blooded ego killer.

[Kingy]

Isn't this largely dependent on how much of a rest you allow yourself on the slabby plinth? Does starting squatted on the plinth really add a grade onto OOMT?

I can see the logic of saying if the long version is 8a+ (i.e. the OOMT but adding a grade onto an 8a) then the shorter version should be 8a. BUT, assuming I could actually get my fingers into the OOMT slot these days then I'd wager any money than powerband into OOMT is an easier proposition than Staminaband or even Staminahumps, so 7c+ might sound more in keeping with local grades? Everything would be 8a in the cave.

I started the sit of OOMT on the final undercuts of Powerband, not on the plinth on the left, and there was no resting on the plinth on the link. I thought it climbed naturally into OOMT without even considering resting out left. If you did so, it would be difficult to get back onto the problem as the handholds are small at that point. That would also be a total cheat.

The sit to OOMT is actually significantly harder than the stand IMO as you have to pull up and into the tweaky slot rather than just crank into into it standing on a pad.

For me, I'm not lanky enough to do the cheating reach-through method on PB so have to hang the pocket with the left hand although I have managed to make it easier my using intermediate undercuts and fine-tuning my footholds. For me Out of Power is harder than Staminahumps but not by much, shirley 8A 

Looking forward to trying Out of Stamina for the final verdict.

[Luke Owens]

Luke said Too Hard for Mark Leach wouldn't even be a boulder problem in Wales.

Fixed that.

might sound more in keeping with local grades?

Local grades? The Tor has it's own grading system now? Jesus wept...

[dave]

That'd be bizarre wouldn't it, a crag with grades that are consistent with similar problems of a similar style and similar rocktype locally? Fucking bonkers.

[slackline]

That'd be bizarre wouldn't it, a crag with grades that are consistent with similar problems of a similar style and similar rocktype locally? Fucking bonkers.

But how to distinguish Font boulder grades from French Sport grades? 

[tomtom]

That'd be bizarre wouldn't it, a crag with grades that are consistent with similar problems of a similar style and similar rocktype locally? Fucking bonkers.

But how to distinguish Font boulder grades from French Sport grades? 

Maybe use different colours?

[dave]

Look dickheads we've agreed on this; 10pt text for routes, 10.5pt text for boulder problems.

[tomtom]

I want different colours fonts and capitalisation.

I also want a fucking big moon on mahoosive great fucking stick. Times two.

[user deactivated]

Maybe we should have a referendum on it? No wait a minute......

[masonwoods101]

Atleast we wouldnt have font grades anymore

[cofe]

PUTPBand (7C to jug/pocket on PUTP

I'm all for sorting some grades out, but can't be 7c to there?

[dave]

Reckon powerband as far as the jug is about 7b, maybe 7b+ for shortarses. But then that pull up into the PUTP second slot/jug (that most folk can reach or jump to from the ground on PUTP) does add a bit, it's a big pull.

[T_B]

PUTPBand (7C to jug/pocket on PUTP

I'm all for sorting some grades out, but can't be 7c to there?

Maybe not, but that move is weirdly tricky/draining on the link.