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UKB Power Club Week 330 13th - 19th June (Read 16425 times)

tk421a

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STG - summer: 7C/8a (Jerry's Roof?)
MTG - next year: 8A/8b
LTG: something long, hard, mostly free

Been away a week in Scotland scrambling.
Sat: Old Man of Stoer, great fun, got soaked on the Tyrolean though
Sun: Cuillin Ridge attempt, sub-ideal conditions and using trail shoes rather than approach shoes meant I was pretty slow on the easier parts. Don't trust Salomon XA Pros on rock is the lesson learnt. Bailed from after the In Pinn. Fantastic day out nonetheless
M: Three Wise Monkeys at Fort William, good little wall, some campusing because my legs wouldn't work
T: Ledge Route on Ben Nevis. First time up to the North Face, easy route, route-finding was the most difficult. Three Wise monkeys.
W: -
Th: Tried to go bouldering in Glen Nevis, mistake. Got midged to pieces. Threewise monkeys in the afternoon.
F: Aonach Eagach, traversed it twice to get back to the car. Amazing scrambling. Then to Threewise monkeys.
Sat: Tower Ridge. Wow! Great fun, just continuous scrambling for 2 hours. Tower Gap was fun, there's footholds but I just ended up lowering myself like a pullup... too much of a boulderer.
S: Three wise monkeys before flying home.
Overall, great week with some sweet scrambling, still managed 5 wall sessions though!

Last week at work before I leave to go climbing for a year!

SA Chris

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Last week at work before I leave to go climbing for a year!

Sounds like you had a pretty good week, and even more to come.


petejh

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Did you rate the Tor Luke?

Haha, so far I think it's rubbish but I'll reserve judgement until I go do routes there, which will probably never happen. I'd sooner stay in Wales...

I lost all hope when a local said to me "It's just a bit crap really."

Don't get on the routes FFS! It'd be the climbing equivalent of an occasional dope-smoker thinking they'll try a Ketamine/LSD mix washed down with some special brew.

You're too innocent for the tor Luke. So much good trad to do instead.

a dense loner

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Fucking cowboyhats got a lot to answer for!

petejh

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It's more that Wales, despite being better than England at football, is much worse for 8bs and 8b+s outside of Diamond SeasonTM.

Doylo

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Walking Mussel and Youthanasia are both ace. Youthanasia is miles better than Mecca.

Muenchener

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It's more that Wales, despite being better than England at football

Damning with faint praise

petejh

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Youthanasia is miles better than Mecca.

There's a controversial joke in there somewhere.

petejh

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Walking Mussel - a 6c route into a knackey on/off boulder prob into a shake and the finger crack to finish. It's not a classic is it. And might not be 8b+?

Youthanasia yeah agree, however I can't be struggling with tides, conditions and mid-week belay partners on a route at (or above!) my limit.

Doylo

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Walking Mussel - a 6c route into a knackey on/off boulder prob into a shake and the finger crack to finish. It's not a classic is it. And might not be 8b+?

The starting boulder problem is 7A (if you're not a midget) so no not 6c to crux. Soft yes  but probably no easier than Mecca with a kneepad. Not a classic but 2 stars on LPT ain't a bad route.

petejh

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Ah forgot about that boulder problem start but it is literally right off the ground (which I did 2nd go so can't be that hard) to a total rest before the knackey on/off middle boulder prob. Mecca's much more continuous, no comparison really. Still the tor though so it's automatically 1-star at most, Luke says :)

36chambers

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M: Ab ripper
T: Aero Cap. 3 sets of 4 on the 6c circuit. Failed on very last rep.
W:
T: Travel down south
F: Gay Humanist Jewish wedding part I
S: GHJW part II
S: Stand up paddleboarding

Staying down south this week in anticipation of another wedding. I'm considering this period to be forced down time before getting back into some serious training.

shark

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Walking Mussel and Youthanasia are both ace. Youthanasia is miles better than Mecca.


Like Jerry said about Neil Carson: "Neil? Neil who? never heard of him"

Luke Owens

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Still the tor though so it's automatically 1-star at most, Luke says :)

1 star? I wouldn't be that generous! From a arm chair (belay, too weak to ever do it) perspective it looks about as good as something on Golf Ball Wall  ;)

 

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