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double sessions (Read 2789 times)

ghisino

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double sessions
May 29, 2016, 09:16:52 pm
not sure if this has been discussed before.

I'd like to have a double session tomorrow (monday) : project-specific fingerboard work, and an indoor climbing session, light snack + drive in between (1-2 hrs rest?)

knowing that:
- during this particular week i should have 3 to 5 climbing sessions monday to friday.
- i will surely have one boulder sesh, one of "short endurance" chopping hard routes in 10-15 move sections, and one redpointing full (30-40 moves) routes at my limit. All indoors, weather forecast is monsoon.
-the extra sessions will consist of a few routes at a "manageable pump" level.

in your opinion, which of my prioritary climbing sessions should i couple with the fingerboarding one, and in what order?



masonwoods101

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#1 Re: double sessions
May 29, 2016, 10:06:46 pm
Never done it but skin must me an issue to people new to it...

tomtom

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#2 Re: double sessions
May 29, 2016, 10:14:47 pm
Watch how long you drive. I sometimes end up driving 2-3 hours immediately after a session and it's not a great environment within which to stretch out...

a dense loner

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#3 Re: double sessions
May 29, 2016, 10:16:35 pm
I would include it with Boulder session if only because you're going to be on the wall a much shorter length of time compared to routes. Ie if you do a good fb sesh your forearms will feel it, I wouldn't like to do 30 moves on them forearms later on.

ghisino

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#4 Re: double sessions
May 29, 2016, 11:06:29 pm
Watch how long you drive

20-25 mins if i drive around lunch time, regardless of the chosen gym, among 10 possible choices. I think i live in the best possible location for indoor climbing in France  ;D
(sadly, not for outdoors  :(. and can be up to 1h20 mins in the morning/evening  if i get the timing wrong)

ghisino

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#5 Re: double sessions
May 29, 2016, 11:17:47 pm
I would include it with Boulder session if only because you're going to be on the wall a much shorter length of time compared to routes. Ie if you do a good fb sesh your forearms will feel it, I wouldn't like to do 30 moves on them forearms later on.

that was more or less what i was thinking myself, although it was more about holds/routesetting/problem choice.
boulder gyms around paris, coupled with the problems i tend to choose, will offer a less fingery experience than lead (routes invariably feature some crimping and squeezing...a "volume/gigahold-only route" will never happen for financial reasons!!!)

SA Chris

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#6 Re: double sessions
May 30, 2016, 08:51:41 am
I used to boulder at lunchtime and then do routes in the evening and that worked OK. Skin is usually the deciding limitation.

bendavison

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#7 Re: double sessions
May 30, 2016, 10:11:50 am
If the double session has to be today and you only climb mon-fri  then I'd suggest the following week:
Mon: fingerboard then boulder
Tuesday: short enduro then manageable pump:
Wed: rest
Thursday: short (session length not problem length) boulder or fingerboard (like an extended warmup) then redpoint route
Fri: short (session) boulder then manageable pump

 

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