[SA Chris]

You have no idea! Axe being swung wildly here.

(I meant CardioVascular, but I guess you knew that).

[Luke Owens]

M: Core

T: Gwynant Roadkill Boulder - Haven't been in a couple of years, previously done the 3 6's. Did "The Hitcher" (7A+) in about 5 goes. First 7A+ in a session, psyched! Came really close to doing "Roadkill SDS" (7A/+) punted the last commiting move to the top of the boulder on my best attempt. Ran out of skin and light.

W: Core

T - S: Rested plenty as I felt boardline getting ill again, lack of sleep at the moment is taking it's toll still.

S: Gwynant Roadkill Boulder with my son - Felt well rested - Did "Roadkill SDS" (7A/+) 3rd go of the day. Figured out the sit start to "The Hitcher" which goes at 7B had about 8 attempts best one falling off the last hard move before easy climbing. Psyched to get so close!

Plenty of spotting my son between attempts on some cool slabs he found and lots of colouring in!

Nipped over to the Craig Y Llyn boulder and did "Paranormal" (6C+) 2nd go of the day (had tried this briefly previously).



Really psyched for bouldering still, especially as I can get the little one involved. Finally feel like I'm breaking out of a plateau, I've been hovering around 6C-7A for about 2 years. All the winter board sessions must have worked!

Going to keep at it and switch back to routes when it's Diamond season in August.

[csl]

Thanks CSL, it actually was a cry for help! I'very become quite the expert in shoulders and elbow but I've never had a proper finger injury so I'm a bit clueless.
Any recommendations on the rehab? I take it to start after swelling has gone?

I'm sure there are plenty more knowledgable than me on this forum, but... this article covers it fairly well.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6193

Personally i'd ice it regularly until the swelling has gone, then begin easy climbing as soon as possible to start using it. Often if its not too bad you can get away with climbing fairly hard using different grips to usual.

[Falling Down]

Tom, Tom and Chris - hope you all heal up soon.



M-W press ups and bodyweight stuff each morning.

T - Up early for a flight to Zurich and met my old school friend Nic.  Drove to Magic Wood which certainly deserves its name.  What a lovely place.  It was quite warm and a lovely day.  15 problems to 6a+.  Loved the rock and the climbing and the place really is magic.  Quite busy though as I think it was a bank holiday.  Drove south to Biasca and up into the Ticino area, up a series of switchbacks to our accommodation in a little tiny village Cavagnago on the mountainside overlooking Chrinico.  Spectacular scenery with snow covering the tops opposite. Ate rabbit and polenta with a mega bottle of local wine as the sun went down and slept like a log.

F - Swiss brekkie and supermarket then Chirinico.  Walked up to the Deliverance area and worked out from there.  Very warm but the tree cover kept the sun off and climbed all day.  Did some great problems up to 6b until the body gave up.  What a great place. 

S - The forecast was for rain at 8pm so we planned to climb all day then head back to Zurich.  Headed to the Southern part of Chironico by the other village and walked down to New Age and Rah Plats Plats.  Cooler than the day before and was climbing well flashing a couple of 6a+'s  but it started spitting on and off then the heavens opened and we sheltered in a cave for an hour or so then walked out back to the car as the sun came out but the rock wasn't going to dry anytime soon.  Drove over the Gottard pass and stopped at the top for Bratwurst and a beer and had a walk in the snow at 2000m which was a bit mad having come from 25 degree temps in the valley.  Stopped off at the Gottard boulders on the way down but they were damp.  Drove up to Aarau where Nic lives and met his family then we headed to a local music/arts venue that was celebrating its 25 year anniversary with a music festival.  Watched a great band from Holland, a poor local rock band and an ace punk/metal collective then danced to live rave/breakbeat/dub step until 1am and cycled back Nic's a bit pissed.  A mental day.

S - Sat in Zurich's massive station hall with a Weissbier listening to two guys play a beautiful minimalist piece on Alpine Horns.  Went to the Museum for a Conrad (father of botany and natural history) Gessner exhibition and printed an Albrecht Durer plate on a Gutenberg press then flew home.

The climbing was great, I'd love to go back when it's cooler and I'm a bit stronger and lighter.  I loved being amongst the mountains and in the forest.  The place we stayed at was called Agriturismo B&B Bertazi and I can't recommend it highly enough for groups and families.  There's a nice little restaurant bar next door with dinner for 15F a head with stunning views over the mountains above Chironico

[andy popp]

Those sound like some truly great days Ben.

[Coops_13]

STG: Fix shoulder and tick something at Malham this weekend
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport
LTG: 8A & 8a

M - Indoor boulder session, climbing felt so weak... Could do more muscle-ups than before knee injury though 
T -
W - Played cricket for my work team (first time in 12 years). All the throwing flared up an old rotator cuff injury though seems it's slightly different to my previous climbing one. Has improved a bit though climbing over BH weekend hasn't helped.
T -
F -
S - Drove to Devon, got on "How the Mighty Fall" 7a+ at Anstey's, horrid climb I thought. Shoulder agreed so no more climbing that day.
S - Not fit enough for Thread Flinstone at Torbryan so RP'ed a 7a link-up, pretty good fun. Got 2nd RP. Bouldering on Bonehill Rocks in the afternoon/eve doing several 6s

Good BH weekend with mates, not overly successful climbing-wise due to being weak and fat after lay-off and new shoulder injury. Rest this week then Malham at the weekend!

[tk421a]

STG: Rehab ring a2 pulley
MTG: 7C/8a
LTG: 8A/8b

Mostly a gym week
M: Circuits, pullups, and TRX work, Is Ys Ts, Pressups
Tu: Climbing with the girlfriend, mostly campusing on jugs (a2 injury)
W: Circuits, + running tabata
Th: Yoga
F: Circuits, Pullups, Pressups, Squats, Rows, Hollow body rocks
S: -
Su: Circuits

My partner's just dropped out from a sport trip to Yangshuo in November / December, so looking at month and half in Arapiles (I'm going to a wedding in Perth). If anyone has any other asia recommendations, I'm all ears.
Ashton - some good info from Dave MacLeod here. http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2010/05/pulley-injuries-article.html
Also, get his book Make or Break, very useful reference reading.

[SA Chris]

I loved being amongst the mountains and in the forest. 

(Aberdeen, you know you want to)

[nik at work]

S/MTG-do more onsighty/ground-uppy type trad instead of getting stuck in a rut of trying very hard (for me) projects... But still maintain syke to try the hard projects/train.

M-nowt
T-bat cave with Doug. Had a play on his new project, it's pretty tricky with a fairly sustained boulders crux section in the middle. Doug thinks it's 8b-ish, I'll not argue with him.
W-nowt
T-swimming
F-nowt
S-hour of power on the training traverse wall. Warmed up on the easy traverse, then worked the current project traverse (made some decent links) then finished off on the easy traverse but pausing for a count of ten after every move, jeeeeesussss that gets the pump going. Managed to do it four times in a row with the only rest being (slowly) walking back to the start. By the end felt like my forearms we're going to explode.
S-bit of lifting and shifting stuff in the garden, active rest??

Got a bunch of new cams last week, now just waiting for the bird ban to end so I can use 'em...

[Falling Down]

I loved being amongst the mountains and in the forest. 

(Aberdeen, you know you want to)

Definitely sometime this year Chris. Lots of people to see and Wass hasn't been.

[a dense loner]

Did you go up the back way to cavagnago FD? That's where one of locals pulled a shotgun on cwp

[Falling Down]

Ha! Possibly... it was proper "local" mind and there were old blokes with their guns at the bar/restaurant.  Probably not the best place for noisy boisterous young groups...

[a dense loner]

Was one of the strangest places I've stayed at. From cavagnago you looked across at the top of chironico but when you were in chironico looking at cavagnago it was hundreds of metres up!!! My little brain couldn't handle it! 

[Falling Down]

Same for me... It was mad and brilliant.  I think it's about 600m above the bouldlers.

[Nibile]

Mon - rest.
Tue - lunchtime session, fast and furious. One arm Kettlebell swings 25x2; cleans 10x5; snatch pulls 10x5; biceps curl 15x1. All with 1' rests in between. Phew! 
Wed - contrast training; PE 2x2' on new holds. Cool.
Thu - climbing class. Easy.
Fri - jump squats with dumbbells; protocol 4x3. Horribly hot already. 26°. Very hard.
Sat - rest. Walked all day.
Sun - reat. Walked all day.

[SA Chris]

That's where one of locals pulled a shotgun on cwp

Chris says hi.

[Sasquatch]

STG - Drop weight
MTG - Local route projects - 8a/+?ish and 8c?ish
LTG - To Bolt

M - Climb outside  - Same area as previous week.  Did 3 new lines - 2 FA's in the v7ish range. 
T -
W - Headed out to rebolt the route projects, spent too many hours in harness, but got 15 new bolts in on the two routes. 
T - Mtn Bike 45 min - got charged and knocked off the trail by a moose mama.  Thankfully the moose continued chasing the dog instead of trampling me into oblivion. 
F - Bike ride in AM, then a bit of exploration and a short session puttin up a new v6-8ish prob (it was sunny, so hard to tell if it was actually hard, or just sort of hard and greasy. 
S - work and home chores
S - Out to Byron to start pulling bolts on route projects. Got 10 out of 15 pulled.  Also managed to get on the routes.  Reworked all sequences on the 8a/+ish route, and got two other local wads on it.  Both thought it was nails, but awesome.  Hopefully 1-2 days to put it all together.  Fitness is my issue, but that should be manageable.   

[a dense loner]

Hi Chris, why you talking about yourself in the third person again? You are Tony Simpson and I claim my £5

[the_dom]

Not the greatest Magic Wood trip..

Mon: Weights at lunch, treadmill in the evening.
Tues: Weights at lunch (I think?); short, easy bouldering session in the evening.
Wed: Rest day
Thurs: Early AM treadmill; flight to JHB, then Frankfurt in the PM. Not the comfiest flight.
Fri: Early flight to Milan. Rental car hassles. Finally made it to Andeer in the afternoon and went bouldering. Did Scrubs second go, Blindfisch second go and put some time into Intermezzo (did all the moves bar one) and Octopussy (did the jump move but couldn't get the heel hook). Felt quite tired due to the travel and lack of sleep.
Sat: Quite warm, especially in the sun. The joy of Magic Wood is the microclimates. Warmed up on Bosna Genial and then went off to try Supernova while mates tried Morgenlatte. It felt hard at first but managed to get very close before fatigue set in. Dammit.
Sun: Rain. Hiked around the forest a bit, then managed to slip and very nearly break my neck. Retreated to the gasthaus for beer.

The rain set in and we bailed a day early. I'm quite annoyed that I didn't get to finish up Supernova but these things happen on short trips.

[Dexter]

STG: Louis armstrong
MTG: more 8B's
LTG: Hubble

M: Recovering from the cave last Sunday
T: Indoor session on the woodie got spanked
W: Nowt
T: Indoor session on the woodie got spanked
F: Indoor session on the woodie got spanked
S: Fingerboard and core, ended up being a short one as my skin was a bit shit
S: Indoor session on the woodie got spanked
 Split my tip last sunday so spent all last week climbing with tape which I always find frustrating. Other than that a pretty standard week of training

[mr chaz]

LTG 8A/8b

Feeling motivated to boulder at the moment having just organised a trip to Swizzy and getting stuck into some hard (for me) Welsh problems.

M. Rest
T. Rest
W. One arm hangs and campus board.
T. Indoor bouldering in the cave at BC followed by short woody session.
F.

S. Drove to Wales. Started at Parisella's. 2nd session trying Lou Ferrino, fumbled the second pocket on my best attempt from the floor, doh! My mate managed it after a 1.5 yr battle and first 7C+, psyched for him. Camped over at Capel Curig for the night.

S. Headed into the Pass nice and early. Had a good session working on Mr Fantastic. Haven't done the crux move yet but getting closer. Was getting frustrated that I couldn't seem to get my heel to stay in for the Bus Stop section, but a change of shoes quickly resolved that issue. Few practice runs from the start into the crux, falling off and jumping on Bus Stop. Short trip to the RAC boulders for some sun bathing, followed by Elephantitus Cave. Had a good go on Going Down On An Elephant thingy, but tired arms and sore skin meant inevitable failure on the final moves. Went for a swim, was cold.

[monkoffunk]

Drove to Devon, got on "How the Mighty Fall" 7a+ at Anstey's, horrid climb I thought. Shoulder agreed so no more climbing that day.

Think I might have walked underneath you on it unless more than one person was trying it, although seems unlikely. Was it just the bit between clip 2 and 3 you hated or the whole thing? Could understand both!

[Coops_13]

Drove to Devon, got on "How the Mighty Fall" 7a+ at Anstey's, horrid climb I thought. Shoulder agreed so no more climbing that day.

Think I might have walked underneath you on it unless more than one person was trying it, although seems unlikely. Was it just the bit between clip 2 and 3 you hated or the whole thing? Could understand both!

I just dogged my way up it once, there were another couple of people who were trying it most of the day so could have been them. I just hated how from below every hold looked like a jug, but wasn't! Also, sticky out ledges on a sport route are a massive detracting factor for me after my knee injury.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[filz]

STG: improve my shape for sport routes doing more AnCap and AeroCap training
MTG: tick some routes (by end of summer)

M: fb max hangs. Weights (clean and press)
T: board climbing
W: contrast training with Nibs, then some front levers and tried some foot on campusing. Completely trashed
T: rest
F: bouldering after work. Still tired.
S: isometric weight training
S: fb. Some max hangs. Then repeaters. Good session despite being tired and not having done repeaters in a while

[Fiend]

S. Dinbren for first time in 20 years. Warmed up (not) on Traction Trauma 6c+ which was desperate. Tommy got shut down on it.

, nails for the grade. Tried it in mint connies with Adam and fell off the top crux to an out of reach jug after fighting like fuck on the previous hard bits.
Did Hot Stuff on Friday though which was cool, more sustained than I thought it would be.

S. Sheep Pen.  Went on Klems Arete. Tricky. We both had lots of goes.  Tommy got it first. After I got it we moved to the Main Block. Flashed Dog Shooter 6B (same grade as Klems arete).

, exactly the same when I went up there. Klems was nails, Dog Shooter and the other V4 arete were steady.