[ashtond6]

Arrived to try this today, to find the really good hold next to the second bolt is on the floor in about 6 pieces.

I'd imagine its quite a bit harder now! I didn't try as it was wet

[old cheese]

Ah, a friend was telling me about this tonight. No names mentioned

[kc]

Went to try this out of curiosity today. Climbs in much the same way as before but uses a sloppy bit of shittness (foothold) instead of the enormous jug by the second bolt. Feet are good so it's just a quick flick to the layerway. Just pull a bit harder. May put it up to hard 7c, easy 7c+. However the layerway between the first and second bolt is on it's way out. That is definitely worth glueing up to preserve any quality to the route.

[TobyD]

May put it up to hard 7c, easy 7c+.

wasn't sturgeon borderline 7b+/c before though?

[Duncan campbell]

wasn't sturgeon borderline 7b+/c before though?

+1

[ashtond6]

May put it up to hard 7c, easy 7c+.

wasn't sturgeon borderline 7b+/c before though?

What's your point? Still could be 7c/7c+ now, it's the second biggest hold on the route by quite a way

[kc]

wasn't sturgeon borderline 7b+/c before though?

I know that. Having done the route before I am purely speculating on a grade. The x jug also served as a good resting foothold before a lot of sustained climbing. A lot of people that may have succeeded before will now power out at this point. Some won't even get that far.

[SEDur]

Out of interest, has anyone else been back on this since the hold breakage?
There did seem to be some fresh chalk on what I assume are previously unused grips...

[moose]

Out of interest, has anyone else been back on this since the hold breakage?
There did seem to be some fresh chalk on what I assume are previously unused grips...

anything to save you the effort of scrolling up a page:

Went to try this out of curiosity today. Climbs in much the same way as before but uses a sloppy bit of shittness (foothold) instead of the enormous jug by the second bolt. Feet are good so it's just a quick flick to the layerway. Just pull a bit harder. May put it up to hard 7c, easy 7c+. However the layerway between the first and second bolt is on it's way out. That is definitely worth glueing up to preserve any quality to the route.

[SEDur]

Out of interest, has anyone else been back on this since the hold breakage?
There did seem to be some fresh chalk on what I assume are previously unused grips...

anything to save you the effort of scrolling up a page:

Went to try this out of curiosity today. Climbs in much the same way as before but uses a sloppy bit of shittness (foothold) instead of the enormous jug by the second bolt. Feet are good so it's just a quick flick to the layerway. Just pull a bit harder. May put it up to hard 7c, easy 7c+. However the layerway between the first and second bolt is on it's way out. That is definitely worth glueing up to preserve any quality to the route.

Else i.e. not kc...

Sorry, I should have been more specific.

Edit: And thank you for quoting him

[moose]

Sorry about being a pedantic twunt.... 40th birthday today.... I am in the midst of a "well lubricated" angsty night in - any unpleasantness is most likely "blue-on-blue".

[galpinos]

.....- any unpleasantness is most likely "blue-on-blue".

Tories arguing about the EU Referendum?

[SEDur]

Sorry about being a pedantic twunt.... 40th birthday today.... I am in the midst of a "well lubricated" angsty night in - any unpleasantness is most likely "blue-on-blue".

My apologies for a snarky reply. I hope you had a good birthday.

Can anyone suggest if this is likely to dry up by Saturday?

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

[nai]

It usually seeps from the very point that it's broken. The Embankment was very wet yesterday and over 20mm has come down since, so probably quite unlikely.

[SEDur]

Cheers for letting me know. Will leave it for the weekend in that case

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

[nai]

the layerway between the first and second bolt is on it's way out. That is definitely worth glueing up to preserve any quality to the route.

Sorry to report that I pulled the right-hand sidepull off Sturgeon in the Cupboard this afternoon. I'd offer to glue it back on but it broke into a load of pieces.

Don't know if this is the same hold, the RH sidepull/layaway was between 2nd & 3rd where the hard stuff started pre breakage.  Probably going to make it very reachy for most now.

[kc]

No the hold I was referring to was a LH by the first bolt, which I had repaired. Unfortunately it could be the small crimp that you yard off to get the jug. Could be interesting now or shit.

[nai]

That's how it reads to me, my mate did it without but he's 6' 7".

Could now be a classic, nails low crux with a draining, droppable finish.  Or a piece of morpho dross.