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Powering out (Read 3634 times)

Muenchener

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Powering out
May 16, 2016, 09:12:18 pm
I was trying a route today on which the redpoint crux comes after ten metres of slightly overhanging climbing, when the wall gets a bit steeper and you have to do a couple of moves on crimps over a bulge before jug pulling to the chains.

I couldn't hold the crimps at all on my redpoint attempts, but then after falling and hanging on the rope for what felt like less than a minute, I pulled back on a did the moves fairly easily.

So - leaving aside the obvious correct answer of "get there more efficiently" - what, in energy systems terms, do I not have enough of and how to I get more of it?

In terms of quality of movement this is one of the best sport routes I've ever been on, and it's on a whole wall full of similar looking routes. I'd like to be able to do them.

Tommy

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#1 Re: Powering out
May 16, 2016, 09:21:14 pm
Well, because the rate of demand of energy is high for hard moves (for you) then you will be working anaerobically. You have 2 options:

1. Increase Anaerobic capacity
2. Increase strength so that these moves aren't particularly demanding and hence you'll be able to operate more aerobically on these moves.

Special option 3: Do both!  ;D


DAVETHOMAS90

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#2 Re: Powering out
May 16, 2016, 10:52:40 pm
Have you checked your body position?

It's worth remembering, that often, the point of failure isn't the point of failure, if you know what I mean.

When you're just a little more fresh on a move, you can set up on it with a slightly different body position, and not really notice.

Contributing factors in that regard could be many, including core/body tension too.

Have you climbed through the crux section to easier ground, but from lower on the route? That's what I'd do first, to help me identify if or what I'm doing slightly differently - and why.
I'm suggesting that, if you haven't already done so, to maybe help find out if there's anything you can rectify in the short term, without having to go away and train in the gym.

Of course, we should all be playing "name that route"  ;)

Could be Le Minimum; you're right, the other routes at Bout du Monde do look stunning  ::)

Muenchener

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#3 Re: Powering out
May 17, 2016, 06:27:49 am
Sorry Dave, you guessed wrong.

And unfortunately it's too far away for it to be a regular project - long weekend destination that I can only get to a couple of times a year. But a really lovely place with great climbing, so it would be worth my while doing specific training for a few weeks beforehand.

moose

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#4 Re: Powering out
May 17, 2016, 07:47:49 am
On Sunday, I gassed out whilst putting the rope through the belay of my current project.  My provisional "training plan" for the rematch is:

« Last Edit: May 17, 2016, 08:02:13 am by moose »

tomtom

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#5 Re: Powering out
May 17, 2016, 08:01:18 am
You won't just be gassing out after those moose;)

moose

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#6 Re: Powering out
May 17, 2016, 08:02:46 am
I'm going to provide my belayer with an umbrella.

DAVETHOMAS90

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#7 Re: Powering out
May 17, 2016, 01:29:56 pm
Sorry Dave, you guessed wrong.

And unfortunately it's too far away for it to be a regular project - long weekend destination that I can only get to a couple of times a year. But a really lovely place with great climbing, so it would be worth my while doing specific training for a few weeks beforehand.

I hope you don't mind, that was a little tongue in cheek  ;D

Sounds like a beautiful spot.

Do you feel pumped when you reach the crux? Poor reading on my part - about not being able to hang the crimps when you get there. Sounds as though you need to feel fresher at that point, at least.

If you can work more aerobically on the first part, you'll have been using less of your anaerobic capacity when you reach the crux.
Often we think our problem is a lack of power, when we may be working anaerobically on too much of the rest of the route - where we could be working more aerobically instead - to have much left for the harder bits.

So there two approaches there - this and Tommy's - and you have to work out which, or what combination, will be the best way, on balance, of having more in reserve at the crux.

At least you've got the chance to go away and find something similar to train on.

Good luck with that  :)

the_dom

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#8 Re: Powering out
May 17, 2016, 07:49:34 pm
I was trying a route today on which the redpoint crux comes after ten metres of slightly overhanging climbing, when the wall gets a bit steeper and you have to do a couple of moves on crimps over a bulge before jug pulling to the chains.

I couldn't hold the crimps at all on my redpoint attempts, but then after falling and hanging on the rope for what felt like less than a minute, I pulled back on a did the moves fairly easily.

So - leaving aside the obvious correct answer of "get there more efficiently" - what, in energy systems terms, do I not have enough of and how to I get more of it?

In terms of quality of movement this is one of the best sport routes I've ever been on, and it's on a whole wall full of similar looking routes. I'd like to be able to do them.

Alan, not being au fait with energy systems, I've always found that the best way to build power endurance for these kind of routes is to do lots of routes at flash grade, or first go of the session despite feeling difficult, in a relatively short session. For me, this is 10 - 15 problems of four to eight moves in length in about 60 or 75 minutes.  I always finish feeling really powered out but my base level improves quite quickly. I think the process of getting to the point that I can do most of the problems on the list first go also proves beneficial in terms of economy of movement.

Hope that helps.

dom

 

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