[rossydoodle61]

I picked up a pair of VSR the other day. Went down half a size from 40.5 to 40 and they fit like a glove after a couple of days.

The rubber felt significantly softer compared to the VS on the grit over the weekend. Feels like a great shoe so far. Hopefully they soften just a touch more (I'm certain they will) for some smeary action.

[Paul B]

I picked up a pair of VSR the other day. Went down half a size from 40.5 to 40 and they fit like a glove after a couple of days.

The rubber felt significantly softer compared to the VS on the grit over the weekend. Feels like a great shoe so far. Hopefully they soften just a touch more (I'm certain they will) for some smeary action.

After two weeks I wish I'd done the same. However, I'm not sure I'd have got them on!

I've been truly impressed by the VSR straight out of the box and I used them for all but the more vert offerings of the RRG. The rubber is really sticky 

The toe patch is already showing signs of peeling despite doing no specific toe hooking.

[rossydoodle61]

I picked up a pair of VSR the other day. Went down half a size from 40.5 to 40 and they fit like a glove after a couple of days.

The rubber felt significantly softer compared to the VS on the grit over the weekend. Feels like a great shoe so far. Hopefully they soften just a touch more (I'm certain they will) for some smeary action.

After two weeks I wish I'd done the same. However, I'm not sure I'd have got them on!

I've been truly impressed by the VSR straight out of the box and I used them for all but the more vert offerings of the RRG. The rubber is really sticky 

The toe patch is already showing signs of peeling despite doing no specific toe hooking.

Yeah, it took a week or two of pain and plastic bags were required to get them on. Like a glove now though...

Would recommend anyone else looking to buy to go down half a size from the VS for sure.

[tomtom]

Same sizing as for VS slippers then

[Paul B]

Yeah, it took a week or two of pain and plastic bags were required to get them on. Like a glove now though...

Would recommend anyone else looking to buy to go down half a size from the VS for sure.

How's your toe patch doing? Mine is starting to peel which given it's only been used for RRG routes (so jamming my feet into the back of breaks but nothing that techy in terms of 'hooks) seems a bit poor.

Hopefully I'll get to test them on some Spanish lime next week rather than basic sandstone and plastic.

[rossydoodle61]

How's your toe patch doing? Mine is starting to peel which given it's only been used for RRG routes (so jamming my feet into the back of breaks but nothing that techy in terms of 'hooks) seems a bit poor.

Hopefully I'll get to test them on some Spanish lime next week rather than basic sandstone and plastic.

Hmmm... Yeah, good point. Mine is actually peeling off a little too. Not much at the moment but, considering I've only used them for a wet week in Font and a few weeks of indoors, it does seem a bit poor.

Also, I've got a few chunks of rubber ripped out / peeling off around the front of the toe edge. Probably from some sharp slabs in Font and perhaps the price to pay for a softer shoe?

[rossydoodle61]

Same sizing as for VS slippers then

I haven't had a pair of those for years, but if that's the same drop in size then yeah.

They're a great shoe but I am still noticing them getting softer and a more baggy on the top of the toe.

Hopefully it doesn't go much further or I'll be able to wriggle my toes about.

[tomtom]

Same sizing as for VS slippers then

I haven't had a pair of those for years, but if that's the same drop in size then yeah.

They're a great shoe but I am still noticing them getting softer and a more baggy on the top of the toe.

Hopefully it doesn't go much further or I'll be able to wriggle my toes about.

Nowadays I pretty much climb in instinct Slippers and VS - slippers stretch more so I get them 1/2 EU size smaller...

If you get them too small persevere (wet then and plastic bags in the feet etc..) and they will eventually stretch out - but it takes quite a while (unlike other brands...)

[rossydoodle61]

Same sizing as for VS slippers then

They're a great shoe but I am still noticing them getting softer and a more baggy on the top of the toe.

Hopefully it doesn't go much further or I'll be able to wriggle my toes about.

Nowadays I pretty much climb in instinct Slippers and VS - slippers stretch more so I get them 1/2 EU size smaller...

If you get them too small persevere (wet then and plastic bags in the feet etc..) and they will eventually stretch out - but it takes quite a while (unlike other brands...)

Sorry, TT. I was referring to the VSR above.

They seem to still be stretching out even more (similar to the slipper) but are in danger of becoming a bit too baggy around the toe if it continues.

I had to use plastic bags to get them on too and there is absolutely no way I could've gone smaller. Those first few sessions were excruciating!

[bendavison]

Bit of an aside, but have you guys found that fitting them really small makes much difference? I found that they just stretched to the size of my foot regardless, it was just more painful getting there in the small shoes, and there was little difference in the final fit. Also, fitting them really small often makes the heel worse because it sits lower on your heel.

[tomtom]

Yes in the slippers - less so in the VS (not had car). Three pairs of slippers - 41, 41 and present pair are 41.5. All right to start with but the 41.5's feel a teeny bit baggy now stretched.

For VS had 41 and 41.5. Both feel same now but 41's took ages and lots of pain to bed in.

I get the impression the vsr's stretch more..

[abarro81]

Bit of an aside, but have you guys found that fitting them really small makes much difference? I found that they just stretched to the size of my foot regardless, it was just more painful getting there in the small shoes, and there was little difference in the final fit. Also, fitting them really small often makes the heel worse because it sits lower on your heel.

I found the same thing with the Booster S to some extent and nowadays wear 1/2 a euro size up from what I originally used in them. Still pretty tight though - tried another half size up again but it messed up the fit around my smaller toes.

[Andy F]

Anyone tried the Chimera yet? Apart from the rather lurid colour scheme they look rather spiffing.

[cha1n]

They look like a multi-coloured five ten Dragon.

I'd be interested to hear some comments on them, though the blurb ( http://www.rockrun.com/wp/scarpa-chimera-evolution-of-an-apex-rock-shoe/ ) seems to be claiming to solve quite a few non-issues. I've certainly not suffered from discomfort or lack of sensitivity due to the shoes internal stitching for instance. 

They also look very narrow, which rules me out and is fair enough but making them very low volume over the toe area seems pointless to me. If you look at them from the side they taper to nearly a point but most people are going to wear these tight and have their toes bent. Many manufacturers have performed that area a bit to accommodate a bent toe.

I'll reserve full judgement until is tried a pair but would be surprised I'd they differ much from the Drago and furia.

[cha1n]

What's the deal with the VS-R? I've had my VS resoled in XS Grip and they are still stiff as fook, which is great for limestone but lack sensitivity for steepness. Is the only difference literally the rubber or have they softened the midsole up?

[Paul B]

They feel softer. I'd consider half a size smaller than the VS next time (although they might not actually go on my feet).

[cha1n]

I'd be happy with them being fold up in your hand soft personally. I take it they aren't that bad?

My new apprentice steep shoes (Skwama) are good but I don't get on with rock solid heels. The VS heel is prefect for me and fits like a glove. Not usually an issue on routes but I heel hook all the time when bouldering.

[sdm]

If you want something even softer, have you tried the Drago? It has the same heel as the VS.

[Sidehaas]

They feel softer. I'd consider half a size smaller than the VS next time (although they might not actually go on my feet).

As a counterpart to this, I've found the rubber itself to be the only significant difference. They might be slightly softer elsewhere but if so I haven't noticed much. I do wear them tight and haven't tried to climb any steep limestone sport in them, which may influence this. I also wear the same size as the oranges, which is perfect for me.

Edit, to be clear, to me the heel and all aspects of the fit feel identical.
I've been through 4 pairs of vs but this is my first pair of vsr, I've had them about 2 months.

[cha1n]

Thanks chaps. Sounds like they're not significantly different then.

I have tried the Drago on but they're too narrow for me. I've also tried the Camera on. They're actually quite wide, but quite narrow right at the toe, which doesn't suit me.

Will just keep persevering with the Skwama and see if I can get used to them or I'll have to go back to using my stix v2 for roof stuff, just don't find the stix very precise when edging. Basically I'm trying to not have to take 3-4 pairs of shoes with me every time I go climbing... Would love an all rounder!

[Drew]

What's the deal with the VS-R? I've had my VS resoled in XS Grip and they are still stiff as fook, which is great for limestone but lack sensitivity for steepness. Is the only difference literally the rubber or have they softened the midsole up?

Who resoled them? Scarpa use 3.5mm Grip 2. This is softer than 4mm Grip 2, or any thickness of Grip. Certain resolers will use Grip 2, some will use Grip.

The VSR is the same as the VS except in rubber.

They look like a multi-coloured five ten Dragon.

... I've certainly not suffered from discomfort or lack of sensitivity due to the shoes internal stitching for instance. 

...

I'll reserve full judgement until is tried a pair but would be surprised I'd they differ much from the Drago and furia.

The internal stitching isn't just about comfort or sensitivity (while it is for both these things), it's also for longevity. It means they should survive at least one resole. The current record (as far as I know), is a VS being resoled 5 times. Only retired due to the accumulated sweat turning mouldy!

The last used on the Chimera is the same as the Drago. Same wrapped rand, and same PCB tensioned-rand so should be pretty similar. However they have a stiffer plastic midsole, plus a lump under the toes for support. All in all, they're a bit stiffer.

[Sasquatch]

...
Please fix the weak point on top of the big toe on the instinct vs where the stitching always splits.  This has happened to everyone I know with these shoes. 

Thank you.

[jfdm]

https://www.instagram.com/mattcousins_/?hl=en
Scarpa shoe pr0n on Matt C instagram page.
Two custom built furia's that look pretty sick.
Looks like custom builds might be the next big thing.
Matt's on fire check out the levitation used for the Tamru comp at top of the account (black thumbnail image). Pretty static problem he needs to crank up the dynamic movement on the next set.