[tim palmer]

Ha ha, obviously I pay for my shoes and Scarpa are the only shoes I have ever bought pretty much, they fit my feet properly and are well made.
They also don't do stupid gimmicks like no edge or incredibly soft shoes.
For me they are best brand in the market but the little things just annoy me

[dave]

..Scarpa are the only shoes I have ever bought pretty much..

..For me they are best brand in the market...

Well I don't know about anyone else but I'm convinced.

[tim palmer]

..Scarpa are the only shoes I have ever bought pretty much..

..For me they are best brand in the market...

Well I don't know about anyone else but I'm convinced.

Thanks!  I do pay for my shoes but I am on commission

[a dense loner]

If I had some scarpas here now I'd get my cock out and piss on them, and I'm sure the rest of the trains passengers would understand

[tomtom]

This is all getting a bit Apple vs Microsoft....

[andyd]

If I had some scarpas here now I'd get my cock out and piss on them, and I'm sure the rest of the trains passengers would understand

I doubt they would. I reckon they'd wonder what was up with you. We, however, would understand.

[a dense loner]

Not really tomtom with shoes you've got a good few brand choices with the other option you only have apple

[a dense loner]

I'm obviously not interested in slackers reply of 17 different systems which no one but a geek uses

[tomtom]

My thoughts on shoes....

I've used boreal, scarpa, 5:10 and La Sportiva. Mostly 5:10 and more recently Scarpa.

For me, Scarpa fit my feet well, are well made and last pretty well.
5:10 fit alright, but are a bit too tight, are sized randomly and last pretty well.

I've no fucking idea which grips best in which circumstance, just that sometimes one shoe works when the other doesnt.. this may be due to either how the different rubbers interact with the rock - or how the fit of the shoe (slipper, lace up, velcro) and its stiffness etc. interacts with the hold/smear on the problem in question. I've had times on lime and grip where one will work better one day, and the other better another.

I'm happier buying scarpa online than 5:10 due to the sizing stuff.. However, I am concerned that someone might piss on them if I were to carry them home (openly) on the train. However, I tend not to do the punter thing of having them carabiner'd onto the outside of my rucksack/bag. That would be (a) cruel to the world due to the stench and (b) be dangerously inviting to any passing on train scarpa pisser-inners.

PS. I am fucking bored today - and can't climb at the moment.

[cha1n]

I like 5.10 rubber but I've not had any issues with XSgrip2. I must admit that I dislike XSedge, and it ruins the Scarpa shoes that it's used on but plenty of people seem not to mind.

I use the stix almost exclusively now but plan to swap to the booster s when my current pair run out. They both use XSgrip2.

[skelf]

stoopid question but i'm assuming the heal on a shoe  is made out of the same rubber as on the toe ? say drago's vs instinct VS. same heel, but is it the same rubber ?? cant think why you would want edging rubber on your heel right enough .... confused.com

[benno]

It's a very weight-dependent thing. I can't stand shoes with XSGrip because I weigh loads and the edges just deform horribly under my lumbering carcass, but I get on with XSEdge just fine. Quite often the only difference between the men's and women's versions of Scarpa shoes is the rubber, with the latter aimed at lighter climbers.

[tomtom]

I had a longing fondle of a pair of the new blue instinct velcros with the XSGrip (rather than edge) at the Depot last night... felt like just my kind of shoe - as I love the fit of the InstinctVS but often found the rubber a bit stiff and with it feel down... Like the instinct slipper but with a decent heel in other words...

£125 felt a bit heavy though...

[Fultonius]

It's a very weight-dependent thing. I can't stand shoes with XSGrip because I weigh loads and the edges just deform horribly under my lumbering carcass, but I get on with XSEdge just fine. Quite often the only difference between the men's and women's versions of Scarpa shoes is the rubber, with the latter aimed at lighter climbers.

I've resoled my Boostics in XSGrip2 and they feel noticeably more "deformable" - they feel a little gripper on smedges and smears, but a little less secure standing around on small edges. They now feel very nice for all-round trad duties, but I'd reach for XSEdge for really sharp edging.

[Drew]

Quite often the only difference between the men's and women's versions of Scarpa shoes is the rubber, with the latter aimed at lighter climbers.

Really? Like what?

[SEDur]

Different horses for different courses between Scapra and 5:10 for me.

I boulder in boostics for the stiffness, and I lead in slightly loose dragons for comfort.

IMO it boils down to how much body tension you can produce, via how much power you can push out of through the shoe.

I can get a lot of power out of the boostics, because its effectively like standing on a stiff platform (i think whites are an even more extreme form of this). However, I find that my feet get sore fairly quickly if I am trying to do routes with them. Probably because I get the foot sequence a lot more dialled when bouldering.

The dragons are more forgiving, because I think the sets I have are slightly large. I can get away with slightly worse foot placement, as long as I push hard enough. The downside of the dragons is that I cant reliably produce as much power.

A good example is the move on weedkiller traverse, where others use a heal hook and then do the campus move. I push hard through my toe on a spike slightly lower in the roof. I can generate enough tension for the moves with the boostics, but not always enough with the dragons.

I will be interested to try the new instinct lace, to see if it is a suitable replacement for the boostic.

I think if the shoe fits you really well but your feet keep slipping, you probably need to work on core tension and footwork.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a half-way-house between the boostic and the dragon?


 

[Andy F V2.0]

Does anyone have any suggestions for a half-way-house between the boostic and the dragon?

As I said earlier, the Furias are softer than the Boostics, but offer more support than the Dragons. The Booster S is stiffer than the Furia and may also fit the bill.

[rodma]

Does anyone have any suggestions for a half-way-house between the boostic and the dragon?

As I said earlier, the Furias are softer than the Boostics, but offer more support than the Dragons. The Booster S is stiffer than the Furia and may also fit the bill.

I was going to give the obvious answer and say go up a size in the boostic or down a size in the dragon [emoji14]

[SEDur]

Hopefully 5.10 won't scrap the dragon. I would like to try the Furia, but as others have noted, it's a furious price tag

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

[JackAus]

Hopefully 5.10 won't scrap the dragon. I would like to try the Furia, but as others have noted, it's a furious price tag

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

96 through Banana Fingers....

http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/scarpa-furia-p-3582.html


I have also got a pair of the VSR. Haven't worn them climbing yet but will be in the Gramps with them next week. 

[JackAus]

The VSRs fit me perfectly straight out of the box.... No need to even wear them in.

[sdm]

Is the fit identical to the VS?

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[tomtom]

Though I've a pair of VS I'm hoping to get resoled with XS Grip - so they'll be the same as VSR's right (bit of blue marker pen and who'll know!)

[rodma]

Is the fit identical to the VS?

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Dunno, I went down half a size cos they're softer

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[tomtom]

For the VS my first pair were 41's - and took about two months to stretch in... Next pair were 41.5's and are still good and tight but didn't take as long to wear in...