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Nesscliffe/Churnet bouldering recommendations (Read 7177 times)

Rocksteady

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I'm going to a wedding in Shrewsbury on Saturday and was hoping/planning to get a bouldering session in at Nesscliffe or a.n.other Churnet venue. Will have one pad and one more or less enthusiastic spotter in the form of the missus.

Two questions: any recommended destinations for problems up to 7A+? Any quick drying or wet weather options in the area?

Cheers.

R

andy popp

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Definitely 100% the Northumberland Block at Nesscliffe and in particular Northumberland Wonderland 7A/+ right up the centre - fantastic problem. This block is pretty much always dry/in condition unless its actually raining or only recently stopped. Beautifully located too. The 6B+ on the right margin is a good warm up and worthwhile anyway. NW feels a little pokey with just one pad but you should be OK. Go and get this done and you won't be disappointed.

Nesscliffe is nothing to do with the Churnet though? 

Johnny Brown

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Not a massive fan of the bouldering at Nesscliffe, always preferred Grinshill. Middle buttress is a your best bet for a quick hit, great natural venue though nothing hard.

None of the sandstone dries quickly once wet but Grinshill is more open than Nesscliffe. Northumberland block would be more likely to stay dry though.

dontfollowme

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Northumberland Wonderland at Nesscliffe is worth doing.

There is a lot more to do at Churnet though which a lot further away from Shrewsbury than Nesscliffe.

andy popp

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Looking at the forecast Northumberland will definitely be dry on Saturday. I haven't been to Grinshill but given the grade suggested by Rocksteady then he is definitely going to get the most out of NW - and very handily placed for Shrewsbury obviously.

rossydoodle61

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There was some rockfall / landslide at Grinshill recently. I'm not sure what it affects but might be best avoided.

The Northumberland block is definitely worth a trip, but it's a bit nicer with a couple of pads due to a stepped landing. Defo go though. The hourglass pinch on Northumberland Wonderland is amazing.

There are quite a few 6/7's on the walk in at the Kynaston's Cave area. Some eliminate and many the start of routes, but they kept me satisfied for many an afternoon. If the spotter is happy to drag the pad a bit then Berlin's Fallen is a good, knacky (and definitely hard for the grade) tick.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=89892
« Last Edit: May 10, 2016, 12:39:54 pm by rossydoodle61 »

Luke Owens

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Northumberland Wonderland is an amazing problem. Couldn't recommend it enough! That pinch is one of the coolest holds I've ever used.

I did it with one pad and no spotters the landing is flat and the you clear the small shelf on the hard bit anyway. I did fall off the top out once and missed the pad too, I was fine! Dries really quickly up there.

Some of the grades have changed too, Kyloe In used to get 7C and is now more like 7A/+ as a hold broke. A hold broke on Rigpa too which changed the grade from 7B/+ to 7C. The right hand 6B+ problem is ace and if you start up this and throw up and left to a nice sloper, match and top out it's a really cool 7A. The trav is also good at 7C.

The cave area also has some good obvious up problems as warmups.

Enjoy!

cheque

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This is perhaps the most geographically confusing thread I've seen on UKB.  ;)

Rocksteady

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Should have checked my areas of Boulder Britain! Will amend thread title if I can. Thanks for the info everyone.

Johnny Brown

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No one ever goes to Grinshill. Suits me, it's like a mix of Frodsham, Helsby and Nesscliffe. Helps to have a guide as there are lots of little areas, lots of exploring to do...

Reprobate_Rob

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lots of exploring to do...

Read - 'lots of getting lost and fighting through bracken to do'  ;)

fatneck

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There was some rockfall / landslide at Grinshill recently




Johnny Brown

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Yikes. Don't recognise the area though, any problems affected?

tomtom

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Blimey - a reminder how those solid everlasting looking crags are not!

Reprobate_Rob

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There was a long-standing roof project my mate had been working, which is no more.

He'd been planning on heading up to try it the day before this happened but didn't make it, thankfully

SA Chris

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Pity. He could have graded it 9b and no-one could have proved him otherwise.

Rocksteady

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Just to say that I did make it to Nesscliffe on Sunday and had a very enjoyable few hours pottering about doing some hungover bouldering. Very interesting rock type and spectacular cliff in its way. Really enjoyed the Kynaston cave area and Berlin's Fallen, and thought Northumberland Wonderland was class though I didn't have it in me to tick it. Loved the view from Nick's Terrace, nice little suntrap up there!

Thanks all for the info.

mr chaz

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Thread resurrection...

Is the terrace area easy to find? I'm thinking of going this weekend and have not been to Nesscliffe before, no guidebook etc.

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Yeah! Follow the steps up on the right end of the crag past the cave and Berlin Wall. Once at the top, drop down right through the Rhododendrons to the terrace 👍

Richie Crouch

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I recall you veer right off the steps and hug a wicker fence, squeeze through some rhodies and drop down right on to a ledge, then jump down again on to the platform below the wave of rock.

mr chaz

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Great stuff, thanks

 

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