[Footwork]

Mon:Nothing

Tues:Nothing

Weds:Depot. Going to try and build up some stamina as shoulder still buggered to boulder hard. Hopefully get some route fitness for a summer of trad and Malham. Shoulder stuff to finish.

Thurs:Depot. Over exerted myself a bit trying stuff I shouldn't have. Managed the 7a+/b on the circuit board. Shoulder stuff to finish

Fri:Nothing. Spent 30mins cycling in the pissing rain

Sat:Slipstones. Hail, snow, sunshine, wind and rain. Thought the day was a write off but the crag dried up nicely between the squalls. Last time I was here was 5 and a half years ago  Ran around like a nutter trying to beat the rain but ended up just climbing in it... Managed to climb lots of stuff I always wanted to go back for. My perfect kind of venue and I won't leave it another 5 years! Where has the time gone.

Sun: Felt knackered from Sat but Laura wanted to climb and the weather was shit. Pottered around mostly but managed to link 7a-6a-6b on the circuit board without any cheeky rests just before going home. Going to try and do combinations of the 7a/6c next time to build up better resistance for sustained climbing. Shoulder stuff to finish.

[filz]

M: visiting Cambridge.
T: plane back to Italy. Nothing
W: Board climbing. Still feeling tired from the weekend. And some pain at the index and ring fingers on the right hand.
T: rest
F: Bouldering after work. Cleaned and tried a couple of new problems for the summer. Good session.
S: Bouldering. Cleaned and tried another problem. Had a couple of goes on the project I'm trying, but was tired. No progress.
S: Antagonist training and core. Ring flies and push ups, front lever progression, ring planks, L-sits, tuck planche, headstands. Tabata.

[Sasquatch]

Week 1 of 4 of no climbing shoe...

M - Circuit strength class with Wife 1 hr,  Campus Board Ancap - 8 sets of 30 moves (40 seconds laddering up and down small rungs foot off. This was extremely exhausting...
T - rest SO SORE from the class.
W - Mtn Bike 90 min
T - Campus Board Ancap - 10 sets of 30 moves (40 seconds laddering up and down small rungs foot off. finger skin hurt so bad....
F - Mtn Bike 90 min
S - Mtn Bike 90 min
S - FB Max Hangs, and Campus max ladders 1-3.5-6.5 on each side. 

Achilles is starting to get better. 

[csl]

STG - the next month

Lose some weight
Do lots of PE training
Boulder in Scotland - done

MTG - next two months

Be fit for Ceuse and climb Privilege

LTG - this year
8a
Mon - hard boulders + aeropow
Boulders up to V7 + foot on campus
Tue - aeropow - 4x4 boulders + foot on campus

Fri - torridon celtic jumble. A bunch of the easy circuit up to 6a+ and then a few goes on Malc's arete. Actually felt ok on this, slapping up to the big sloper after a couple of goes. But a bored non climbing girlfriend meant i had to head back off to the cafe for some cake. Would love to head back up on a proper climbing trip!

This week: good diet, no booze. 3 x Aeropow, 1 x strength, 1 x anpow

[duncan]

STG (June): rehab. finger & knee. 6c at Ceuse (Zagreb); sea-cliff E3 E4.
MTG (September): Excalibur, Wendenstock; Rabada-Navarro, Naranjo de Bulnes; sea-cliff E5.
LTG: Something long, hard and free and in condition in August, tbc since demise of N.W. face of Half Dome.

M - Westway Bouldering; fridge (20-30 degree board) 10 x ~V2.
T - Knee exercises.
W -  Westway Routes; Aerocap (5-6b). 7-8 minutes on x 5 sets. ~250m.
T - Brief dead hang session: deep slots.
F - Brief shoulder maintenance. Drove to Pembroke with Bridbeast.
S - Forecast suggested Pembroke would have the pick of the weather, a brisk NWerly prompted SE facing St Govan’s East. Conditions were absolutely perfect and the place was deserted, where was everyone? 5 routes including Forbidden Fruits (E3), which is a gem if you're not done it. Drove home.
S - Battered. Stroll around Highgate. Shoulder maintenance.

Good to get an E3 on third day out this season, felt surprisingly comfortable moving on rock. Knee 90%, finger 70% and still buddy taping, so can't try hard yet.

Plan: keep going with the moderate bouldering or easy hangs 1-2 per week. Increase intensity of Aerocap towards Aeropower/PE.

[T_B]

M - School lunch. Felt weaker than last wk. Just about managed Basic Jez. 1-4-7 on left but not quite right.
T - School lunch. Session on the Moonboard using the LEDs and App. Quite enjoyed it actually! Couldn't do a 6C and flashed a 7B+. Quality and grading all over the place. P.M. run around Great Longstone (13.3Km / 455m).
W - Foundry lunch. 30 mins Aero then 3 x 7a circuits on board.
T - School lunch. Did first 28 moves of Pink circuit, then from end of first section to falling off in the groove x 2. Felt best in a while. P.M. Ran home.
F - A.m. Ran to work.
S - Drove to Huntsham Crag, described on here as both "awesome" and an "esoteric shithole". It was what I'd hoped - great for a quick visit en route to somewhere else, with enough to go at for a mixed team. 5 mins off the A40, we had 4 hours and did a bunch of problems from 6A to 7C. Flashed Ames Low (rock as good as anything in Northumberland), did the tricky 7B+ on Bivi Buttress with the foot locks and Peckitt's Roof. Had a brief look at Hunter's Roof but coming in to match the undercuts seemed nails. Left and was in Exeter in less than 2 hours.
S - Hound Tor. Full on technical outer shell conditions. Did a load of easy stuff in the cloud/rain, including the not-so-easy 6C 'Al Smith' (more like solid 7A). Escaped to café, then had a quick look at Saddle Tor but it was wet. As I recall from 20 years ago, the moor is a lovely spot but the rock...hmmm.

Active week with six climbing sessions. Had a great time at Huntsham.

[webbo]

Mon. Physio.
Tue. Turbo 45 mins.
Wed. Physio.
Thu. Turbo.
Fri. Weights and deadhanging decreased the weight on max hangs but increased it to 25 lbs on repeaters. Watched the Tour du Yorkshire come through the village, the spent rest of the day watching it on the tv.
Sat. Physio another bounding ex to do. Bike 63.87 miles 3 hrs 48 mins really windy and wet at times, down to 11mph in to the wind at one point. Too knackered to clean my bike afterwards.
Sun. Abb and core stuff the repeaters with 25 lbs added.
I am allowed to try and climb next week as I have managed to do a the high level rehab stuff with no issues.

[Coops_13]

STG: Heal knee for holidays in next few weeks
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport
LTG: 8A & 8a

M:
T:
W:
T: Did CWP 30 min max hang workout, quite good fun and hard work. Did short core session after, DOMS for three days... 
F: Flew to Norway
S: Norway
S: Norway, did an 8 km hike up to Pulpit Rock. Very achey knee afterwards but it held up well

Big improvements with the knee this week  mainly due to the constant dose of ibuprofen I've been taking

[cheque]

STG Get big wall fitness required for making film. A month into this. I've started making the film now so hopefully I built enough of a base.
MTG (by late Autumn 2016)- Finish film while making progress towards LTG.
LTG (by end Nov 2019)- 8a.

M- Rest.

Tu- Nothing.

W- Nothing.

Th- Awesome Walls. First indoor climbing for two months, first "sport climbing" for 6! 9 pitches, 5+ - 6a+. Not pleasant as very little endurance, getting sharp-feeling flash-pumpesque pump on every route but it never went over the red line so to speak. Felt like I was moving well though and the climbing all felt easy aside from the pump.

F- Rest.

Sa- Day trip(!) to Pembroke- 10.5 hours driving, 8 hours filming etc., 30 minutes eating cold beans in St. Govan's car park. Full on day, well worth it to get off the mark with the film.

Su- Rest.

Not a great deal of climbing or training this week.

[36chambers]

STG:
MTG: Yorkshire Classics
LTG:  8B

M:
T: bouldering indoors. CWP wk. 2. felt strong.
W: tweaky finger felt a tad agitated.
T: bouldering indoors. unorchestrated, hadn't recovered from Tuesday.
F: drive to the Lakes
S: Beautiful day at Kentmere Boulders, felt like summer. Had a play on Tourniquet 7C+/8A and it didn't feel too bad. Figured out a good sequence for everything but the end, which proved problematic. However from watching videos it looks like I was using a whack sequence. With better weather and when feeling fresh it could be a goer. Finished the day climbing The Pocket 6C at Langdale Boulders, which was excellent. The Lakes' answer to Pebble Wall and Jocks and Geordies?   
S: Drove to the parents via a quick peek at a wet Trowbarrow. The shelter stone looks brilliant. Although I may struggle to convince my girlfriend to head all the way back there just to watch me on it.

Didn't feel like a very progressive week. I don't think my fingers and elbows can manage more than 1 fingerboard session a month.   

[tommytwotone]

Short update from me - I did knack all on account of being in much discomfort (skin, joint pain followed by some serious itching I'm not allowed to scratch!) post-tattoo, as it was I'm not allowed to do anything that gets me too sweaty just yet, plus my gym was closed for refurb so couldn't go there.

[tomtom]

36C - Woodwell is 5 min up the road from the Shelterstone and is (a) a much prettier and sheltered location and (b) is moderately close to poshish cafe and walks on beach etc.. If that appeals more to a bored GF.

[Coops_13]

S: Drove to the parents via a quick peek at a wet Trowbarrow. The shelter stone looks brilliant. Although I may struggle to convince my girlfriend to head all the way back there just to watch me on it.

Surely there's plenty for Louise to go at there Nathaniel? If not Shelterstone, there's stuff at Red Wall?

[petejh]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid June
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Bouldering into Power phase (via lovely holiday pottering phase)

M. Core & mobility sesh.
T. Flew to Beziers with girlfriend, drove to gite in Compeyre.
W. Gorges du Tarn. 6 pitches 5 to 7a. Flipping brilliant place! Ran out of light for Tresor de Zebre. GF TR'd her first sport routes: 5s, 5+s and a 6a.
T. Boffi. Bloody amazing crag! 7 pitches 5 to 7a+. Chair de Poule is the best 6c I've been on anywhere, perfecto.
F. Gorge de la Jonte. Fuckme! Climbed Le Reverend. Superb, GF's first multipitch sport (3rd multipitch in all). Wild last pitch! Whole thing's probably around E1 or 2, 120m.
S. Gorges du Tarn. Quick hour before bombing back to catch flight. 2 pitches, fell off last move of a 7a+. Flew back.
S. Fairhead, walked around too cold/wet to climb, welcome back!
M. Fairhead. Descended to bottom of cliff, sat around playing eye-spy and the fizz-bang-boom game while waiting to see if it would get warm/dry enough to climb. It didn't so we bailed to Cushenden potato cave and played on the probs. Place needs bolting: Maple Canyon-on-sea.

Ace trip. Ate like kings, pottered around on rock, saw lots. Love this area and will defo be going back to get amongst it. Surprisingly didn't mind pottering around putting the rope up 5s and 6s but how can you when they're this good!  Was nice to see a few different venues - Boffi is pure class and the Jonte is beautiful and a nice little adventure. GF totally loved the climbing is now a euro sport trip convert. UK is cold.

[SA Chris]

It didn't so we bailed to Cushenden potato cave and played on the probs. Place needs bolting: Maple Canyon-on-sea.

My thoughts when I saw pictures. Looks exactly like Maple.

[nik at work]

M-F - did a BM session at some point but otherwise work
S - work then a short afternoon session outside, repeated a couple of 'new' routes from the last few years
S - work

Work should calm down a bit soon so I may be able to report a worthwhile week shortly...

[36chambers]

36C - Woodwell is 5 min up the road from the Shelterstone and is (a) a much prettier and sheltered location and (b) is moderately close to poshish cafe and walks on beach etc.. If that appeals more to a bored GF.

thankfully the gf is a climber, just not quite at the grades on the shelter stone. For some reason I completely forgot that other crags may exist nearby

[tomtom]

36C - Woodwell is 5 min up the road from the Shelterstone and is (a) a much prettier and sheltered location and (b) is moderately close to poshish cafe and walks on beach etc.. If that appeals more to a bored GF.

thankfully the gf is a climber, just not quite at the grades on the shelter stone. For some reason I completely forgot that other crags may exist nearby

Red wall is polished - and probably more of an acquired taste than I am capable of gaining, but is (a) a good place to warm up before the Shelterstone and (b) got plenty of easier stuff (its a degree or two overhanging with lots of large holds - did I say its polished )... Woodwell - notably Toms Wall has a mix of hard and easier stuff... Grading is tough there btw (in my view..)

[TobyD]

Gorges du Tarn. Flipping brilliant place! ...Love this area and will defo be going back to get amongst it. Surprisingly didn't mind pottering around putting the rope up 5s and 6s but how can you when they're this good!  Was nice to see a few different venues - Boffi is pure class and the Jonte is beautiful and a nice little adventure. GF totally loved the climbing is now a euro sport trip convert. UK is cold.

great write up Pete. There really aren't any shit routes in tarn are there? come to that there aren't that many i wouldn't give 2 or 3 stars, of any grade