[mindfull]

Around 67kg

STG: Knee rehab & restart climbing.

MON: Pull
1. Pullup
8xBW(pullup)
8xBW(hammer pullup)
8xBW(chinup)
8xBW(pullup)
2. Clean
5x5x40kg
3. BB shrug
4x15x54kg
4. (F/S/R) delt. raise
(4x3x) 8x8kg

THU: push
1. Bench press
5x5x54kg
2. Overhead push press
10x20kg
8x24kg
5x28kg
3x30kg
1x34kg
1x38kg
1x40kg
1x44kg
1x48kg
1x50kg
1x54kg
7x44kg(AMRAP)
3. Incline DB press
4x8x20kg

FRI: First time back in the climbing gym  in da gym
1. Campus
4x1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8
4x1-3-3
5x1-4-4
2. Boulder
Up to 6B up and down
3. Traverse
4x5min

[Muenchener]

STG (April) under 80kg. Not quite. Stabilised at around 81. But that's still 2kg down from the start of March, and a kilo a month is a healthy and sustainable rate that I'm quite happy with.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

Tapering in the hope of good weather on two upcoming long weekends in the Frankenjura. (Whilst trying not to get too excited: late spring bank holidays have been a weather washout in the 'jura for the last three years in a row)

M: Knee & shoulder physio exercises.Shoulder felt considerably worse afterwards. Oops. Must have overdone something.
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Short session with M jnr, up to about onsight level
W:
T: Bike one hour
F: Bike one hour
   Beastmaker maintenance max hangs.
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Another light session up to about onsight level.
S: Going to the pub to watch Leicester City win the Premier League. I'm not a football fan, but since this event is about as likely as my route on the Lower Tier at Markfield that fell into the water before it ever had a second ascent being recognised as the greatest seacliff route since A Dream Of White Horses, I feel obliged to go and witness it.

 

[tomtom]

Thanks for starting Mindful.

M: Work
Tu: Work - managed to get a BM session in at the end of the day
We: Work, late trip back to Manc
Th: Day trip to Edinburgh. Involving a 'spicy' descent into Manchester through snow, hail and thunderstorms on the way back. I loved it, the fat smelly, continuously farting business type next to me didn't..
Fr: Depot Manchester. Useless - body just not performing... gave up climbing after 50 min and did some foot on campussing. I just needed to resort to the basic mechanics..
Sa: Met up with R-Man at Stanworth. Took me c.10 attempts to get up a couple of 6A/6B's as warm ups. Body just wasnt functioning. Managed to sketch up a nice 7A arete... nice to get out and thanks for coming our R-Man..
Su: Off to the pub in a bit (and its just started raining...)

The lesion/carcinoma on my back has been causing me concern this week. I (worryingly) had another look at it from another angle yesterday and it looked alot worse (a bit bigger and more pork crackling like in appearance..) :/

I've been randomly phoning up the number I was given from the appointment booking people about getting it removed - as it seems like I get a different answer each time (appointments will be released next week, later on in the month etc..). So I figured if I tried enough times I'd get lucky. On Monday I did, and am now due to have it chopped out in two weeks time (well a week on Monday..). I would still like to actually talk to a dermatologist about it at some point - presumably I will when its lobbed off ~ though that will probably be done by a robot and telecon from London :D

[Muenchener]

Th: Day trip to Edinburgh. Involving a 'spicy' descent into Manchester through snow, hail and thunderstorms on the way back. I loved it, the fat smelly, continuously farting business type next to me didn't..

I had some cool winter flights over the North Atlantic when my sister lived in Shetland. One where everybody had to move into the front rows because the tail was icing up. One where we diverted from Aberdeen to Inverness because Aberdeen was snowed in, and we landed in Inverness in six inches of slush on the runway. That looked spectacular from inside. I guess you either find that sort of thing exhilarating or terrifying.

Good luck with the carcinoma thingy.

[tomtom]

Cheers.

I suspect the pilots probably rather enjoy something a bit more challenging! A day of 45 min hops from Manc <> Edinburgh etc.. Must get pretty routine...

[Duma]

Goals:
Summer - lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, identify (and if possible do) candidates for:
8A and 8b by next June

69kg. (av.)

Body Audit: Neck/Shoulder seems to be sorted, last felt properly stiff Thursday evening.

M: Plan for Neath Abbey stymied by weather forecast. Last minute call for portland bouldering. Cuttings boulderfield, no guide meant fair bit of wandering and easy pottering, but beautiful spot, and found and did Lightning Strike (7A+) which was excellent.
T: AM - local esoterica in Froome Valley. Some good moves up to 7A+ ish on quarried sandstone, r-man would be proud. Lush day to be out amongst the bluebells regardless of the climbing. PM - TCA in eve, 2 hours on problems from new yellow (font 6's) and last week's red (6B+ to 7B+) circuits. Ticked a few off, but feeling pretty knackered and tweaky so decided on couple days rest.
W: 24 mile bike. Lovely but pub lunch in the middle probably negated any training effect.
T: TCA with daughter after school, easy stuff for me, was going to go back in the evening but shoulder felt stiff so sacked it.
F: Brean with Rosea. Arrived in gale and heavy shower, but despite getting soaked to the waist wading in, the crag was sheltered and dry. Onsighted 6c, 7a, 7a. Prisoner of Conscience 7b+ and Bullworker 7c 1st rp. Pretty happy to actually tick a few routes. The warm ups/down felt pleasingly straightforward, dunno how soft they're considered though.
S: TCA 45 mins, Moonboard. Probs up to "7A+" including several attempts on my current project graded 6A by some idiot. Ticked a couple of the new Reds (6B+ to 7B+) too.
S: nowt, nights.

[Duma]

Just bumping this to stop folk replying to the wrong one.

[rodma]

M: hungover and tired from the old man's visit.
T: campussy wall session
W: resting
T: campussy wall session, feel kinda weird and shaky
F: rest
S: feel shit. Fever, shooting pain down neck through arms
S: have a lovely rash down the left side of my body. Welcome to shingles

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[fried]

A week of failing to climb 6As

M- rest
T- Indoors, don't remember much except my right elbow tendon hurt afterwards.
W - And still hurts...
Th - Had a day off and went to Bas Cuvier, tendon a bit sore. Did a quick warm-up then got on Nescafe https://bleau.info/cuvier/1491.html which didn't hurt too much, quickly got up to the last foothold on the arete, but couldn't quite commit to it. Had a rest and some swedes told me I was welcome to have a go at Marie rose if I wanted..Had quite a few goes, found a better sequence, but elbow was hurting too much. Had a last couple of goes on Nescafe, but the left crimp was starting to get very painful and I was tired. Didn't finish anything, but had an excellent afternoon and felt much stronger than last time I tried Marie Rose.

F/S - Nothing but resting elbow.
Su - Took the missus plus friend for a picnic at Canche aux merciers, wanted to do some easy stuff which I did, then I had a good few goes at Jeu des jambes https://bleau.info/canche/3636.html. Pleased 'cos I now know the sequence, but used up too many goes working it out (again), fell from the last bit (again). Lovely day in the sun with lots of good company.

Nice one Mindfull
Best of luck TT
Shingles is shit..Get well soon Rodma

[rodma]

A week of failing to climb 6As

M- rest
T- Indoors, don't remember much except my right elbow tendon hurt afterwards.
W - And still hurts...
Th - Had a day off and went to Bas Cuvier, tendon a bit sore. Did a quick warm-up then got on Nescafe https://bleau.info/cuvier/1491.html which didn't hurt too much, quickly got up to the last foothold on the arete, but couldn't quite commit to it. Had a rest and some swedes told me I was welcome to have a go at Marie rose if I wanted..Had quite a few goes, found a better sequence, but elbow was hurting too much. Had a last couple of goes on Nescafe, but the left crimp was starting to get very painful and I was tired. Didn't finish anything, but had an excellent afternoon and felt much stronger than last time I tried Marie Rose.

F/S - Nothing but resting elbow.
Su - Took the missus plus friend for a picnic at Canche aux merciers, wanted to do some easy stuff which I did, then I had a good few goes at Jeu des jambes https://bleau.info/canche/3636.html. Pleased 'cos I now know the sequence, but used up too many goes working it out (again), fell from the last bit (again). Lovely day in the sun with lots of good company.

Nice one Mindfull
Best of luck TT
Shingles is shit..Get well soon Rodma

I'll be in font in two weeks' time, so will be in a happy place whether completely better or not :D

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[shark]

10.13-11.2

M. Lie in. Malham. Left Sheff midday with Nick C. Cons X 1 then x2. Working go on Oak to put draws in. First go felt really good but got horn wrong and fell so squandered it. Next go tired and a bit cold but managed to almost get to top traverse. 3rd go got horn but didn't hold. Knackered by 4th go but did some links. Back Thurs. Disappointing. Struggling for positives from day. First go was the best I felt all year on bottom section and was consistent to horn. Bursitis not a problem
T.
W.
T. Malham. Freaky weather. 2.5degrees and sleeting Rock was icy cold. Warmed up with difficulty on Taking the Space with rests then led it to top crux but slipped off sloper which had gotten wet. The pros packed their bags and went to the Wall. Wanted to do the same but Nick had a word. Dogged up Oak to put draws in. Felt light and strong and rock was grippy Went for a walk around Cove. Despite errors led ground to to start of top traverse but fell coming into second undercut having rum out of gas rather than been shut down. Another walk round top of Cove. Go 2 got to same point as Go1 and fell feeling the same. Round Cove again (this time clockwise) Go 3 past horn and fell going for sloper. Cold conditions meant I didn't keep slipping off horn like on Monday and so best performance this year. Felt lacked energy on upper traverse - skipping breakfast was probably not a good idea with hindsight.
F.
S.
S.

Bursitis lump gone but still painful if I bang it, as I found out this afternoon. Lightest I've been all year. Decided to take three days off and I'm back to the Cove tomorrow. Word is it is still dry.

[Muenchener]

Good luck. I'm rooting for you and Chelsea tomorrow.

[shark]

Good luck. I'm rooting for you and Chelsea tomorrow.

Thank you. Been too many false dawns

[Nibile]

Tsk tsk, you should be puntered for skipping breakfast before going climbing!
Very unprofessional.
But I trust in you.
Get it done.

[shark]

Tsk tsk, you should be puntered for skipping breakfast before going climbing!
Very unprofessional.
But I trust in you.
Get it done.

I read once that Dani Andrada only started each climbing day with an expresso so he felt light

[andy_e]

He's also really fucking strong. The body needs fuel as well as coffee.

[Luke Owens]

Smash it Shark! Well psyched for you to get it done!

Just bumping this to stop folk replying to the wrong one.

Thanks, I was just late on the other one...

[Duma]

Come on Simon!

[nai]

STG - Raindogs, Call of Nature and other Peak WIPS

M - rest

T - no partner so went to try Brad Pit briefly, initial progress then went backwards. Managed to stop myself training PM.

w rest

Th - Rivelin to try Moolah, just got warmed up when we realised rain was imminent so in a rush put a rope on it rather than try GU.  Worked out the top move but rain stopped play.
Fingerboard back home

F - AeroPow boulder workout, pullups, core

S - 3x10 LI AeroCap

S should have rested but got bored in the afternoon and had an experimental fingerboard session seeing whether reducing weight with a hand on the counterweight pulley or a foot in a sling worked best. Inconclusive.

Frustrating week, should have been peaking and crushing but nobody was playing in the cold weather so been mostly stuck at home being tempted to train and eat.

[ashtond6]

Anyone wanna get out tomorrow in the Peak? (Monday)

M - Rest
T - Broomgrove session
W - moving house
T - moving house
F - moving house
S - hangover day, back to broomgrove with mark20. Failed the traverse 4 hand movements from end. Good progress.
S - bad weather so horseshoe. Dropped the very last move onsighting colostomy finish 7a, I slapped for a hold that I thought was chalked but it was actually bird shit!!!! Massive finishing jug right next to it so I'm kind of taking it haha 
also fell off trying to onsight Megalithic Man direct 6c+. So hard to onsight at this crag! Not too worried as it was raining all day

[monkoffunk]

STG: Font 7A+, before summer gets hot, (hopefully next session out??)
MTG: 1. French 7c+, before 1/1/17. 2. Tick unfinished business list (4/13).
LTG: 1. Cider Soak and Academic, before 1/1/18. 2. Font 7B+, before 1/1/18.

Monday - rest day from weekends fun.
Tuesday - bouldering on Cuttings. Did Pleasant greetings and relativity 7A. Pleasant greetings was quite hard, but it's a terribly unappealing problem. Brief play on lightning strike. Then tried Declassified and could do every move fine except for the first. Clamp the feet and pull on to a prow. Eventually started snowing pretty heavily so moved on to Workshy which faced the right way! Could pull on at the start and onto the holds before the throw, but not do the moves! Work to be done...
W - Cheddar with Mark. Went to the Wave. Both of us forgot to bring a rope. Bought a rope from outdoor shop at bottom of Cheddar (anyone want to buy a rope that's only been used once at a discount??). Warmed up, put draws in Insatiable 7b+ and did next go. One more from the list, nice to be coming back to this stuff and finding it easy! Flashed Islands in the City, first 7a+ flash. Tried Seven Months Later and fell off two moves from top. Thought it was awesome, particularly as I worked out a sequence that avoided pulling on the sharp finger lock at the start and climbed really nicely. I'll get back on that soon!
T - Rest
F - Good board session at Red Spider and then 10 mins squat/press-up/plank combo.
S - obligatory rest day in Cambridge
S - same as Saturday!

Good to get Insatiable, it's been on the list for a while and haven't been there in a few years. Felt very steady which is encouraging. Really keen to get back on Seven months later, surprisingly awesome route!

[mr chaz]

LTG 8b
STG Mussel Beach
72.5kg

M. Foot on campus routine 6 x 1min on/ 1min off. Alternating between medium and large rungs for each rep. Feels like I'm starting to make progress. 2 x 10 minute stints on the easy yellow circuit.
T.
W. Same as Monday.
T. Strength/ power on the 45 degree, working hard new problems.
F.
S.
S.

[Nibile]

Power Club
STG - one board project, go and try the route at least once before Summer.

Mon - board climbing. Very good session. Four excellent goes on project, great progress but no cigar. Blimey it's hard. High volume.
Tue - rest.
Wed - crimp session. Strong. Barbell complex x2 (bentover row, front squat, clean, good morning, push-press, RDL). Heavy.
Tue - climbing class. Foot on campusing, lock offs. Very tired, not feeling good.
Fri - all day in bed with some kind of food poisoning or the likes.
Sat - rest.
Sun - more rest after a night on the wc... Lost three kilos. Let's jump on the project!

[the_dom]

Come on Shark!!!

Has been a weird week - elbow is still sore, but Wednesday was a really good day out..

Mon: Decent indoor bouldering session.
Tues: 30 hard-ish minutes on the treadmill.
Wed: Good day out bouldering - ticked 2 7B+ish things and one 7B. Elbow felt ok too.
Thurs: Feeling pretty tired. Snuck in 20 mins on the treadmill.
Fri: Shortish but quite hard indoor bouldering session.
Sat: Outdoor bouldering. Hampered by one mat between three people, two children running around and damp underfoot. Nothing of note. Then my stag do.
Sun: Recovering from stag do.

[SA Chris]

M - Wall session. Only got there late, but had a reasonable session
T - Weights
W - Core
T - Birthday / folk leaving at work beer and charity slideshow from Tim Rankin
F - not much, packed mostly.
S - ski touring Cairngorms. Not best day, left skins at home so had to go into Aviemore and hire set. Up Faicall Coire Cas, across to top of Y Gully, ski Y Gully - good, but snow heavy. Skin up to Castlegates - ski down, middle section sheet ice, go down hitting soft patch and slide a fair way, smacking thumb and hurting it quite badly. Lower section great powder. Skin up to top of Alladin's Couloir, looks hard and icy so sack it off and opt for Goat Track, switch skis over and find screw missing from back of binding so can't clip in, have to walk all the way back to car park. Fat NNFN day.
S - knackered, potter about house, go to Minor injuries to get thumb checked out. Badly sprained, but probably not broken.