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Getting back into it. (Read 2827 times)

webbo

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Getting back into it.
April 27, 2016, 09:43:43 am
I am hoping I will be given the all clear to start climbing again soon following my Achilles tendon repair. My physio is from a general sports back ground, so has no climbing specific knowledge. So my thoughts on getting going again would be the steeper the better as this will put less strain on my Achilles, I'm thinking if its vertical or less there is  a tendency to get right on your tiptoes to maximise your reach. Where as steep stuff its more dependant on arms and fingers.
Any thoughts.   

roddersm

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#1 Re: Getting back into it.
April 27, 2016, 10:00:21 am
I'd have thought that being on steeper angles might also put some strain when down pointing your toe if climb square on?

Bicycling and toe hooking I presume would stretch out the achilles.


tomtom

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#2 Re: Getting back into it.
April 27, 2016, 10:15:40 am
Ask Dolly - he's recovered from a similar injury IIRC

duncan

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#3 Re: Getting back into it.
April 27, 2016, 10:33:03 am
webbo, good to hear you're close to getting the green light. From your fit-club updates, you're cycling 40 miles and doing plyometrics so probably ready for some gentle climbing. You could show your physio. some climbing videos illustrating the sort of thing you have in mind. S/he should then have a better idea of what you're letting yourself in for.

I'd think the most important thing to avoid is any unexpected shock loading such as landing from any height on your toes, so no bouldering at the moment. You also need to avoid clipping your foot on any protruding holds if you fall off.

You might be quite statically strong from the fingerboarding but rather out of practice moving. This is a slightly risky time for injuring something else, so ease into things slowly (statement of the obvious...).

I would suggest top-roping gently overhanging lines. Steep enough to fall clear of the wall but not so steep you need to claw in with your toes. Avoid high steps, long stretches, and any creative footwork. Keep it all basic at this stage.

webbo

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#4 Re: Getting back into it.
April 27, 2016, 12:34:35 pm
A bit of an issue there Duncan as I don't go near my local wall so top roping is out. I tend to just use my home 40 degree board for most of my training. I was thinking of more pull on from sitting do a move, fall off. Which is very similar to what I was doing pre injury ;)
Showing the Physio some videos is a good idea.
Cheers

duncan

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#5 Re: Getting back into it.
April 28, 2016, 11:53:24 am
A bit of an issue there Duncan as I don't go near my local wall so top roping is out. I tend to just use my home 40 degree board for most of my training. I was thinking of more pull on from sitting do a move, fall off. Which is very similar to what I was doing pre injury ;)

So the question is really 'am I ready to use my home board?'  ;)

It's one of the less good ways of getting back into climbing. Which doesn't automatically mean you shouldn't be doing it but that's one for your physio. to answer. Is your TA strong enough to land awkwardly on that foot if you ping off unexpectedly?

bendavison

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#6 Re: Getting back into it.
April 28, 2016, 01:45:51 pm
Take care with foot pops on steep stuff. I broke my heel ~20 months ago, and foot pops still hurt around the AT now.
With re. to the OP, I'd suggest putting some decent footholds on your kick board (if there aren't any already), and doing traverses round the bottom of your board. Hopefully a nice way to get you moving again.

Also, try not to slack off on the physio even if you can start climbing again.

T_B

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#7 Re: Getting back into it.
April 28, 2016, 03:04:06 pm


Also, try not to slack off on the physio even if you can start climbing again.

+ 1

webbo

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#8 Re: Getting back into it.
April 28, 2016, 05:32:28 pm
Advice given yesterday was review on Saturday and to add a couple more plyometric exs then if that's ok to give climbing a go.
I would be running on the treadmill by now if I was planning to run in the future but I declined that option as when I did run I was never injury free for very long. However the Plyometrics I'm doing are supposed to be more testing than running. They are worse than trying to sprint up hill on a bike they feel like you are going collapse and chuck up.

 

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