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Hour long training sessions (Read 7361 times)

James Malloch

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Hour long training sessions
April 24, 2016, 10:01:53 pm
Just wondering if people have any decent hour long training sessions (including warm up)?

The wall near my house opens at 0630 and it's the only time I can go when it's quiet. Evenings are truly horrible due to the amount of people there.

Ideally I'd just be in there for about an hour so I can get to work at a sensible time. Don't mind running over occasionally

For strength I'm thinking weighted hangs would be easy enough.
Not totally use on areo pow and an cap though?

Any thoughts would be welcomed.
Thanks

Muenchener

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#1 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 24, 2016, 10:12:57 pm
If you want to take advantage of the wall being quiet you could get a couple of ARC aerocap rounds in.

csl

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#2 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 25, 2016, 08:06:04 am
Biscuit Factory for the Circuit Board, Board + Comp wall is fine in the evening by the way, its just the rest of the wall which is a nightmare. Just head there for 8.30 or so and you have 2 hours when the wall isn't too busy at all.

tomtom

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#3 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 25, 2016, 08:44:43 am
Not sure what you're training for James, but I often manage to cram a wall session into about an hour - and feel suitably worked by the end of it... especially if I'm training/climbing >=3 times a week...

I typically spend little time warming up (in a stretches kind of way) and do 10 min gradually working up from V0-V4 problems (with no real rest) - then when any aches/niggles have warmed up/gone I have a 3-5 min break then get stuck into harder problems. I'm only interested in bouldering, so for me its mainly strength/power stuff. It means you don't have time to rest much ~ but as I said by the end of it I feel worked out. I am 46 though, so I can't spend a whole day at the wall or climbing etc.. like I could when I was 25 :D

T_B

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#4 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 25, 2016, 08:51:45 am
Most of my sessions are 1 hour.

Warm up, bouldering then campussing.
F/Board repeaters or Max Hangs
Warm up, some bouldering, warm up on circuit then AnCap sess. Up to 10 reps in one set. Warm down.
1 hour of Aero

Basically apart from hard bouldering/routing at your max (where I admit you need to be fully warm / recruited) I can do most things in an hour.

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#5 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 25, 2016, 08:53:04 am
Could you try and pre-warm up? I cycle to the wall which gets the heat rate going - you could get some squeezy balls or something and get the forearms and fingers a bit pre-warmed.

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#6 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 25, 2016, 08:59:49 am
so for me its mainly strength/power stuff. It means you don't have time to rest much

Im pretty sure with power training you need to be fully rested inbetween hangs/boulders. Thats the philosophy i live by. I met a guy in albarracin who only trained 1 hour per day 6 days a week. Seemed to work for him as he was bouldering 8B+/C. He said he would just do hardest boulder he could with 5 mins rest between each boulder for 1 hour

SA Chris

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#7 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 25, 2016, 09:06:26 am
Could you try and pre-warm up? I cycle to the wall which gets the heat rate going - you could get some squeezy balls or something and get the forearms and fingers a bit pre-warmed.

This.

bendavison

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#8 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 25, 2016, 10:00:39 am
Most of my sessions are 1 hour.

Warm up, bouldering then campussing.
F/Board repeaters or Max Hangs
Warm up, some bouldering, warm up on circuit then AnCap sess. Up to 10 reps in one set. Warm down.
1 hour of Aero

Basically apart from hard bouldering/routing at your max (where I admit you need to be fully warm / recruited) I can do most things in an hour.

This is amazing/bewildering.

The only sessions I can do in an hour are campussing, low level aero or core.
Warm up takes nearly an hour otherwise.

tomtom

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#9 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 25, 2016, 10:06:42 am
so for me its mainly strength/power stuff. It means you don't have time to rest much

Im pretty sure with power training you need to be fully rested inbetween hangs/boulders. Thats the philosophy i live by. I met a guy in albarracin who only trained 1 hour per day 6 days a week. Seemed to work for him as he was bouldering 8B+/C. He said he would just do hardest boulder he could with 5 mins rest between each boulder for 1 hour

Interesting... might try this - TBH, this is kind of how I operate when climbing outside.. Get warm then onto the main event/project... At the wall its easier to have more goes on other things etc...

(I can't climb 8B+ :D )

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#10 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 25, 2016, 10:44:54 am
Could you try and pre-warm up? I cycle to the wall which gets the heat rate going - you could get some squeezy balls or something and get the forearms and fingers a bit pre-warmed.

This.
I've got a medium strength gripmaster which I find is really good for this  :thumbsup:

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#11 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 25, 2016, 10:51:46 am
Any serious power or strength oriented session shouldn't and could't last more than one hour.  Or even less, depending on how hard you try.
I usually dedicate a couple of hours to training, but these include a long general warm up, a specific warm up, the actual session and some kind of finishers.
The meat of the session generally boils down to three or four goes on a project. Maybe trying the singles, but rarely I can have a higher volume without lowering the intensity.
So, rather than thinking "Can I fit my session in one hour?" I think it's more appropriate to think "I have one hour, what can I fit in?"
One hour is a lot if you work hard enough.
Of course we have to be prepared to feel different sensations and be fine with it. A short morning session of max weighted hangs will leave you feeling differently than your three hours long Sunday afternoon wall session. But that doesn't mean that you haven't trained well.

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#12 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 25, 2016, 01:02:51 pm
Most of my sessions are 1 hour.

Warm up, bouldering then campussing.
F/Board repeaters or Max Hangs
Warm up, some bouldering, warm up on circuit then AnCap sess. Up to 10 reps in one set. Warm down.
1 hour of Aero

Basically apart from hard bouldering/routing at your max (where I admit you need to be fully warm / recruited) I can do most things in an hour.

This is amazing/bewildering.

The only sessions I can do in an hour are campussing, low level aero or core.
Warm up takes nearly an hour otherwise.

I think this is a symptom of you being a student and Tom being a full-time worker and father. If you only had 1 hour I'm sure you'd figure out a way to train in that hour.

T_B

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#13 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 25, 2016, 02:21:58 pm

This is amazing/bewildering.

The only sessions I can do in an hour are campussing, low level aero or core.


I'm not saying it's ideal/optimal! I've just spent approx 40 mins warming up at the School for 15 mins of trying really hard on 3 problems. Then 5 mins of campusing to finish off. At best I'm treading water. My AnCap session is approx 30 mins warm up, then a set of 10 reps, which takes 20 mins.

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#14 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 25, 2016, 02:38:17 pm
I think this is a symptom of you being a student and Tom being a full-time worker and father. If you only had 1 hour I'm sure you'd figure out a way to train in that hour.

Quite possibly.

I'm not saying it's ideal/optimal! I've just spent approx 40 mins warming up at the School for 15 mins of trying really hard on 3 problems. Then 5 mins of campusing to finish off.

This is more like what I could do in an hour.

My AnCap session is approx 30 mins warm up, then a set of 10 reps, which takes 20 mins.

Sorry for the off topic post, but what do you do in this? Might be useful for the OP anyway. I thought my ancap was fast, but it's almost twice as long for the same number of reps.

T_B

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#15 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 25, 2016, 02:55:46 pm

My AnCap session is approx 30 mins warm up, then a set of 10 reps, which takes 20 mins.

Sorry for the off topic post, but what do you do in this? Might be useful for the OP anyway. I thought my ancap was fast, but it's almost twice as long for the same number of reps.

A 13-move variation on a section of the pink circuit, which takes me 40 secs. 80 secs rest between each rep.

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#16 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 26, 2016, 01:33:21 am
..you could get some squeezy balls or something and get the forearms and fingers a bit pre-warmed.

This.

Shark will have some hot tips for this  ;)

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#17 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 26, 2016, 07:04:02 am
so for me its mainly strength/power stuff. It means you don't have time to rest much

Im pretty sure with power training you need to be fully rested inbetween hangs/boulders. Thats the philosophy i live by. I met a guy in albarracin who only trained 1 hour per day 6 days a week. Seemed to work for him as he was bouldering 8B+/C. He said he would just do hardest boulder he could with 5 mins rest between each boulder for 1 hour

Interesting... might try this - TBH, this is kind of how I operate when climbing outside.. Get warm then onto the main event/project... At the wall its easier to have more goes on other things etc...

(I can't climb 8B+ :D )

I have to rest even longer than 5 mins often, but I find it makes a huge difference to the number of goes I get in a session at what feels like max power if I do. You don't get boxed, but objectively you can count the number of decent attempts on a problem and see it's more. Use a stop watch every time I'm at the wall now. And try to outdoors when I don't get overexcited and screw myself over.

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#18 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 26, 2016, 07:05:35 am
Also, in terms of one hour sessions, I do the Anderson brothers finger board routine always within the space of an hour but only when I know I can't get to the wall.

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#19 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 26, 2016, 01:03:51 pm
+1 to using a stopwatch to time rests. I use a timer whenever I'm doing a big autobelay session etc. It's remarkable how quickly you feel decide you are 'ready' compared to what your body actually needs to get up something.

SA Chris

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#20 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 26, 2016, 01:17:42 pm
Due to missus being in post marathon "incapacity" I only made it down the wall for an hour and a half session. I compressed warm up into about 15 mins, avoided chitchat, stopping for snacks etc, and had a fairly productive session. Not sure if I could cope with doing a hard session first thing in the morning though.

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#21 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 26, 2016, 07:34:39 pm
+1 to using a stopwatch to time rests. I use a timer whenever I'm doing a big autobelay session etc. It's remarkable how quickly you feel decide you are 'ready' compared to what your body actually needs to get up something.

And how long 5 mins feels like when you want to get back on the wall!

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#22 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 26, 2016, 09:18:12 pm
Not sure if I could cope with doing a hard session first thing in the morning though.

First thing in the morning is really difficult. It's the only time I can get an hour (other than late at night) to do my own thing since we had the little one. I have about a 1 1/4 hour session in the garage and it feels like I need the first 45 minutes for warming up and waking up before I can pull at all hard.

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#23 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 27, 2016, 10:29:22 am
When we had little ones I just did bugger all for a bit. Quite a bit actually.

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#24 Re: Hour long training sessions
April 28, 2016, 09:05:18 am
Hey James. Assuming you're talking about Building One?

I've had some really good morning sessions there. Usually I warm up on a few easy problems and then do weighted hangs, starting low and then adding weight until I reach my max after about 30 mins. I like the fact I feel I'm getting cut short because I usually have a tendency to continue until I'm broken.

I feel horrific when I first pull on, but that soon goes after a few light hangs.

 

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