[Johnny Brown]

A) it was a garage, and B) my Dad didn't want it to take up too much room so it was basically vertical, mainly circuits. Once I got everything wired I'd do them in my trainers to get more pump. There were quickdraws in the roof joists to practice clipping, and a tiny campus board above the door.

[cha1n]

Has anyone tried using an LED moonboard with an android phone that uses Marshmallow? My S7 won't connect, though it can see the board as a bluetooth device. Very frustrating.

[cha1n]

Messaged moon via Facebook and they said they're aware of the problem and are working on an update.

[petejh]

Thought I'd give this thread a prod.

Used a moonboard for the first time at The Boardroom last night and thought it was an ace training tool.

The app now has 2957 problems! There are currently 336 just at 7A-7A+. The lights are a great aid for a dim-wit like me who can't remember more than two moves in advance. The lights also allow you to turn up at a new board after work, tired, and just climb without having to spend time working out probs or having a local show you what probs they've made up.
The grey and black holds are a little coarse sure, but not excessively and they should be fine after traffic. My skin was thin from the weekend but still got on with them. Yellows are great.
Thought the app worked really well - easy to filter to a set of probs by grade, setter, rating, recently set etc. Pretty cool to share Megos, Moon's et al problems. The beauty of the system is in having people from all over the world sharing their probs on a standardised board, genius really.

 


Next - shared lattice board scores on ukb...

Oh.. and setting an oak throw sequence and traverse replica to get Shark up his proj

[slackline]

Application is updated today

[gme]

around 10000 users world wide now and close to 1000 boards. New comment feature is really good.

I climb on one all the time and think its great, holds not the best but other than a few are fine. The board i use up here has not got lights but the app works fine without. Great to be able to turn up and have nearly 3000 problems to do. I have done over 250 and was trying to keep up with the new ones at first but no chance now. The only thing i think is bad is that due to the volume of problems it does not make you stick at one project, if you dont do something in a few tries you tend to just swipe right and try the next. But for doing volume on a pretty small board there is nothing better.

Quite a few of the top wads on there as well. megos, woods,ghisolfi and i know of a few more who have bought the holds and lights but not made new problems yet.

[SA Chris]

I climb on one all the time

Shit that must be tiring.

[Duncan campbell]

Used the one at the foundry today for the first time and really enjoyed it! Thought the led system was good though as I'm exceedingly stupid I occasionally got a little confused as to whether it was the hold above or below the light I was going to. I personally would have had the light above as then you can see it for feet and hands. But it's no biggie.

I also think an improvement would be screw-one for feet as sometimes it felt a bit stretched or bunched feet following and I found I could sit on big feet occasionally. Plus it might make big moves less jumpy and more techy? Obviously the feet would be small screw-ons though better than the blobs on the motherboard a la works.

A little rough on the tits but nae so bad.

Remember seeing these when I first started climbing (when. Used to spend a lot of time on the moon website watching vids etc) cool to finally have a go.

[T_B]

A little rough on the tits but nae so bad.

I'm sure Ben will appreciate the feedback. I had heard that nipple protectors were being developed in conjunction with Sublime brushes.

[Duncan campbell]

Haha! Whoops!

[tomtom]

Will the sublime nipple protectors come with a little hidden compartment where I can keep my stash?

[Plattsy]

Played around on the board at the Foundry a while back and loved it. I agree with gme that skipping problems after a couple of goes is easy to do.

A couple of a things to add:
I agree with DC. It can be confusing whether the light is above or below the hold in question. I thought perhaps lighting up the bulb above and below the hold would help know it's in whether you're below or above the hold en route.

The free standing board at the foundry doesn't half shake when 14 stone is trying to lay one on the last hold. I swear I bloody missed the last hold once when I rocked and I should've rolled. 

[dave]

I think the thing about the lights being above/below the hold seems to be something you'd get used to after the first session on there.

Given the only thing anyone really complains about on the Moonboard is the holds I don't know why Ben doesn't hook up with someone who makes good holds (Axis, Core, whoever) to do a set of really nice comfortable holds for the moonboard, with good texture, that are not all jugs to stand on, and bingo you've turned a good product into an amazing one.

[Doylo]

Chuffed for Moony that this has taken off. The yanks seem well into it.

[Muenchener]

They don't understand Font grades and are therefore not distressed by the fact that a Moonboard "6B+" is somehwere around two to four grades harder than the average indoor "V4"

[gme]

 You can change the grades to V grades if you the kind of sivko that would want to do such a thing.
Re the grades there are some massive discrepancies in there as some people really can't grade for toffee however there is a facility to change the grade to what you thing it is when you log your ascent. I think if 5 or more people change the grade another shows up in brackets as a user grade. Most people seem to never upgrade but quite happy to downgrade so a bit like uk bouldering in general.
Long term it might actually help to standardise grades world wide, on the board at least.

[remus]

Given the only thing anyone really complains about on the Moonboard is the holds I don't know why Ben doesn't hook up with someone who makes good holds (Axis, Core, whoever) to do a set of really nice comfortable holds for the moonboard, with good texture, that are not all jugs to stand on, and bingo you've turned a good product into an amazing one.

Its a good idea in theory but in practice you make a lot of problems for yourself (It splits your database of problems in half, makes it more complicated for people looking to buy the board (which holds should I get?), makes the app more complicated and it confuses users.)

[remus]

Long term it might actually help to standardise grades world wide, on the board at least.

Could save everyone a lot of time and effort if they just put everything in at 6B+ (or where ever the inflation-downgrading equilibrium point is).

[standard]

Chuffed for Moony that this has taken off. The yanks seem well into it.

big in japan too

[highrepute]

Chuffed for Moony that this has taken off. The yanks seem well into it.

big in japan too

#moonboard

[dave]

Its a good idea in theory but in practice you make a lot of problems for yourself (It splits your database of problems in half,

It would add to the total database of possibilities.

makes it more complicated for people looking to buy the board (which holds should I get?),

You'd buy the good set of holds, obvs.

makes the app more complicated and it confuses users.)

Isn't it already catering for two arrangements of holds, made from the white moon set, the black set, and the yellow set? Can't see how adding a better set of, say, blue holds would do anything but add to the overall product.

Thinking about it, there is a set of plywood moon prototype hold at the school which I understood were supposed to eventually form a set of holds for the moonboard. The shapes were basically the same as the old original screw-on Moon "power grips" holds (i.e. very good) but scaled up a bit and used with bolts. Although there's still questions about plywood for holds (i.e. longevity) this set, if it they get made as a full production set, would totally eclipse the existing black and white Moon holds set. Those and a set of the older yellow Moon holds would be a really good setup.

[highrepute]

Given the only thing anyone really complains about on the Moonboard is the holds I don't know why Ben doesn't hook up with someone who makes good holds (Axis, Core, whoever) to do a set of really nice comfortable holds for the moonboard, with good texture, that are not all jugs to stand on, and bingo you've turned a good product into an amazing one.

Its a good idea in theory but in practice you make a lot of problems for yourself (It splits your database of problems in half, makes it more complicated for people looking to buy the board (which holds should I get?), makes the app more complicated and it confuses users.)

At first I agreed with you Remus but then I thought people(boardheads, moonheads, #moonfans?) would love the reset and Ben gets to cash in a second time. MRK II init

[gme]

Could save everyone a lot of time and effort if they just put everything in at 6B+ (or where ever the inflation-downgrading equilibrium point is).
[/quote]

Pretty sure that's what a lot do as some of the 6b+s are in the 7s. If everyone gave there honest opinion of grade and the app averaged it out it would work.

[gme]

More hold sets are already in the pipeline including wood.

[petejh]

Chuffed for Moony that this has taken off. The yanks seem well into it.

big in japan too

Great tune